Question about Microsoft Xbox 360 Console

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Can't find no clean liquid flux?

Can you tell me someone that sells this no clean liquid flux? I'm in greenville sc. I know kester or amtech would be great If someone or chain like radio shack had it.. I called them they were distributors @ no help... thanks tvman66@yahoo.com

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You can buy the flux and other Xbox 360 repair items from our eBay store at http://stores.ebay.com/Garons-Biz or from garonsbiz.com

Posted on Jul 02, 2010

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How are your soldering skills? You will need some!
You need to use low temps not to pull the old pads that the new connectors need to attach too. You can use a soldering iron, I would recommend using a hot air gun, or for best results use an IR rework station. You will need flux for rework. and low temp solder, or solder past, my favorite is Kester EP256.
All you need to do is run your iron across all four of the contacts, with a little clear rework flux when it loosens lift it off, then clean with solder wick, replace connector, then run iron on all four leads putting solder on the iron and it will transfer to the connections, clean with 91% rubbing alcohol, and your done.
Sounds easy and it is once you know how. Check out some YouTube posting, a picture is worth 1000's words.
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I live in Greenville County, SC and can not get help by phone or your unsatisfactory links - no list of states!


South Carolina - Greenville
NWR Transmitter - Greenville
Frequency 162.550
S.A.M.E Code 045045


Please leave feedback

Cheers

Andy

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Red flashing light 80gb 3-4yrs old


You basically got the YLOD or Yellow Light Of Death, its when u turn it on it will flash a yellow light first then beeps twice & flashes red, And u can fix that without sending it to Sony coz it will cost a lot more. So here's what u need: Heat Gun,liquid flux, Screw Drivers, Heat Sink Compound (white one), some thing that u can use to clean the system and just watch this video from part 1 to 6: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U70SgRDVc...

Fluxing Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZRReDIHT...

I suggest that u should have someone help u to use the tools(if u dont know how to use it).

Ways to prevent YLOD comeback:

- Put the system in "VERTICAL STAND" so it saves space while "Increasing airflow for better heat management."

- Put the system into a place where "nothing is blocking the air vents."


- Turn it off when not in use(or turn on auto shutdown into 1 hour).

- Eject disc when "not" in use.

- Give it a break! don't use it the whole day, 10 hours is the maximum play time that i recommend coz the graphic chip might get too hot that it will cause the system to shutdown.


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Can I get replacement batteries for my Norelco 7735X shaver?


I have replaced batteries in several Norelco shavers, typically ending up with better end performance than with the original batteries.

Norelco shavers typically utilize two AA sized NiCad batteries with thin tabs spot welded on each end and the tabs soldered into the circuit board internally.

I have had best success with utilizing Sanyo Eneloop AA batteries, see http://www.google.com/products?q=Sanyo+Eneloop+AA+batteries&hl=en&scoring=p, which are NiMH cells with low self-discharge (i.e. hold their charge for over 6 months) and are free of the memory effects and internal self-shorting problems of NiCad cells.

The key to successfully changing the cells is to leave the original solder tabs on the circuit board and utilize the edge of a single edge razor blade (with great care) rocked back and forth between the metal tab and each of the ends (one at a time) of the original batteries so as to cut the spot weld free from the original batteries while saving the tab.

A single razor blade should do the job, though the blade will now be largely ruined for any further use.

Next carefully flatten the tabs (will be a little deformed by the spot weld break strategy).

Next carefully tin both the tabs and the ends of the new NiMH cells with a small amount of solder.

This tinning is not easy unless you use this strategy: Utilize small drops of "Harris Stay-Clean liquid" soldering flux, a clear (looks like water) zinc chloride liquid flux, e.g. dip a tooth pick into the flux and use just the small droplet of liquid flux which runs off the tooth pick onto the metal. After the flux is where you want the solder, touch a heated soldering iron tip already coated with a tiny amount of rosin core flux for electronic circuit joint soldering to the pre-fluxed area and the metal will easily and rapidly tin with solder.

For the new batteries, use only a tiny droplet of Stay-Clean flux right where you want the solder and touch the costed and heated soldering iron tip to the battery for just 1-2 seconds so as to minimize chances for any damage to the new batteries.

Once happy with the tinning of both the (saved) original batter tabs and the new batteries, hold the new battery in position and briefly touch the soldering iron against the tabs to push it into the battery end and fuse the two areas already tinned with solder.

I does take a little practice to get the above and physical alignments correct. It is helpful, though not mandatory, to use a temperature controlled soldering iron (e.g. set to about 500 F) with a fairly small tip.

Be sure to keep the Harris Stay-Clean flux, even fumes sealed in storage (I usually enclose the Stay-Clean bottle in a clear screw cap larger bottle) because just invisible fumes from this flux on any nearby iron or steel surfaces, over time, will promote rapid rusting. The Stay-Clean is a great product, just be careful with it during handling and storage.

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I just bought a GE 29888GE1 today. What do you need to know? jp in Greenville, SC

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Not charging


dear Dipak, Clean UEM IC by IPA first, Apply some liquid flux in sideways of UEM, Heat UEM lightly by HOT AIR GUN. Clean it again by IPA.

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