After a probable subwoofer too close incident (also possible cause - power spikes and low voltages are common here, but none particularly memorable when the fault occurred)my neighbour gave me a goodmans 336 NS which was basically showing all pink and a bit fuzzy. I have tried to degauss it by all the normal methods with mixed results - i have managed to get it to be blue or green instead of pink but never all at the same time. the effect is over the whole screen. inside the box is clean and there is no obvious burnt component - please let me know if there is something that i am missing.
in particular is there a self de-gausser on the set? i cannot find it in any of the menus or anywhere on the remote or controls.
Thanks in advance
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Re: goodmans 336 NS
The degauss method involving soldering iron (the ones that use a transformer) is the best and effective as I know. Simply close the solder iron at one side with the transformer close to the screen, press power and move it around the screen. This should be done with the tv dissconected from power. Have you tried it, and with what result?
Also from what I know older type of tv's have degauss coils, but they are only powered when the tv is reconnected to the mains, only when it is powered then. Durring normal operation and stand-by - on cicles, they don't appear to work. I'm not the tv specialist here, but hope this helps.
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Include the model and serial for accurate results, that being said the standard wiring is RGYW (C)
R= (red) low voltage power from the transformer to "R" on the thermostat
G= (green) to "G" on the thermostat to the fan relay
Y= (yellow) to "Y" on the thermostat to the AC contactor (relay) coil. (usually outside in the AC unit).
W= (white) "W" on the thermostat to the heating terminal/gas valve, controller (varies with manufacture).
C= (common) not used much these days but some thermostats have to be "powered" by the low voltage transformer because they have lights, rechargeable batteries or other functions that require power.
You most likely have an improper ground or no ground at all. Ground out your amp and the will probably take care of the noise. The other thing that can cause this is cross over from a high voltage source. You may have your low voltage lines to close to high voltage and getting bleeding of signal. The last thing, which should really be the first thing to check, is connections. One strand of copper not conntected can cause all sorts of problems.
Your issue is that the dimmer is not rated to handle the type of fixture/lamps its controlling.
From a lighting control standpoint, the 12V-lamps classify as "low-voltage halogen" and, somewhere in that circuit, have a transformer(s) converting the 120V~ down to 12V~. Using incandescent dimmers (like the one you are using) can cause compatibility issues with those transformers. What I suspect is happening is that the incompatibily is either throwing voltage spikes or current spikes on the line which are causing the dimmer to enter some sort of "safety" mode to shut everything down before any problems occur.
My recommendation is to first figure out what type of transformer it is: Either magnetic low-voltage, or electronic low-voltage. Ideally you would contact the transformer manufacturer (or look up their specs online) to figure that out. Other rules of thumb: if the transformer's big & bulky, it's probably magnetic - conversely if its lightweight, it's probably electronic. If its only one transformer controlling all of the lamps together, it's probably magnetic - conversely if its one of those transformers where the transformer and light bulb come togheter as one assembled unit and then snap into the track, it's probably electronic.
Then make sure the dimmer is rated for magnetic low-voltage, or electronic low-voltage (depending upon what the transformer is).
White wires are commonly the common connection (sorry for the pun). L2 is also considered the common leg. You did not mention if you are looking for high voltage or low voltage common. L2 is your high voltage leg. If the power venter ties into the thermostat circuit, W on the circuit board is the common terminal.
If voltage is present, it has to be the bulb, usually, depending on the socket. Look at the socket closely, and make sure that the base makes proper contact with the bulb. They can distort just enough to trick you. If you can, make a set of mini-jumpers with alligator clips and wire. Connect from the base (socket) to a known good bulb. It's quite possible that there can be voltage present in the wiring, and none to the light, indicating that either there is a problem with the connection where the wiring passes through on the way to the next light, or in the fixture itself. My guess is that in the press-on connection, one of the spikes has missed the wire. Take that apart and reconnect; it'll probably do the trick.
Low voltage. A lack of proper voltage increases the current flow (amps) and can cause overheating, thus, a burnt wire. Remember, the lower the voltage, the higher the amps.
Bad connection. Poor connections can cause small amounts of arcing, thus burning the connection. This adds resistance to the circuit which causes a possible voltage drop and, again overheating due to higher amps.
Since all that equipment is on the same circuit, I would really think it is a voltage drop situation. With everything calling for power at the same time, the breaker trips. In some cases, it may be just enough for the breaker not to trip but still have a low voltage situation.
There is the possibility of an over current, such as a power spike from the power company but it would have to happen more than just a time or two.
And the outside chance that lighting got into the system when it struck something close to you home but it, in almost every case, would destroy something else, usually electronic. (This has happened to me. Trashed my dryer, dishwasher, and answering machine.)
Good luck and hope this helps. Le me know how you come out.