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I have a leaking wash machine.Looks like it is leaking around the rubber boot under the tub. Model # WWA8350VCLAD. Is there parts available to repair. It was bought in 1979.

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If you bought it in 1979, then I would respectfully suggest you replace it.
At this age it is unlikely you will find any spare parts for it to be repaired..

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

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The washer was leaking water not sure where from But now it doesn't work. The water runs for about 20 seconds and then stops. The sensor light comes on and the lid light blinks.


Don't panic when the washing machine starts leaking water all over the floor! You can usually fix the problem yourself within and hour or two at a fraction of the cost of calling a service technician. And only rarely will you have to purchase a new machine. CAUTION! Unplug the machine before performing any repairs.


26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-0.jpg

Figure A: Common leak locations

These are the six most-commons places for washing machine leaks.

Figure A shows where the most common washer leaks occur. We cover hose, pump and tub leaks, but there may be additional problem areas specific to your brand of machine. There are two types of washing machines: belt drive and direct drive. If you open up the cabinet and don't find any belts, then you've got a direct-drive machine. Repairs are similar for both machines, but generally easier on the direct-drive unit. The following photos are from a belt-drive washing machine. If you have a direct drive, refer to your owner's manual or diagrams (see "Buying Parts") for brand-specific details.
Tip: Make sure the water on the floor isn't the result of a plugged floor drain. It happens!

Replace leaky supply hoses
26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-2.jpg The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones (photo). If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses, regular hoses and new hose washers are available at home centers and hardware stores.

Replace leaky internal hoses

26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-5.jpg
If the supply hoses aren't leaking, open the cabinet and inspect the internal components. Belt-drive machines typically have a rear access panel that unscrews. Access direct drive machines by removing the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flipping up the lid. Then pry up the cabinet clips and pull off the entire cabinet. With the cabinet open, restart the fill cycle to check for internal leaks (Photo 1). Look for additional clues like rust and calcium deposits. Most often you'll find the leaks in the spots we show in Figure A.
Hoses tend to leak around a worn-out spring clamp. First try to remove the spring clamp with an adjustable pliers. If you can't get it, you'll need a special hose clamp pliers (Photo 2) available from your local parts supplier. Replace the old spring clamp with a new worm-drive clamp (photo below). If the hose itself is cracked and leaking, remove it and take it to the appliance parts supplier for a replacement.

Replace a leaky pump

26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-9.jpg

Photo 1: Loose the bolts

Loosen the two motor mounting bolts to relieve tension on the belt. One will be at the rear of the cabinet and the other is nearby.
The pump usually leaks around the pulley seal (see Photo 3). If you spot water leaking from this spot, the pump is shot and will have to be replaced.
To replace the pump, work from underneath the machine. Unplug the machine and tip it up against the wall. Block up the front with a car jack or 2x4s so it can't tip over while you reach underneath. Replace the pump as shown in Photos 1 - 4. If the belt is darkened from burning or is worn down to the threads, replace it, too.

Replace worn-out tub fittings
26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-14.jpg

Photo 1: Lift the lid

Slide a small putty knife between the washer lid and the cabinet. Push the putty knife against the spring catch while lifting up on the lid. Release both catches and fold the lid back.
The most challenging repair is fixing a leaking tub fitting, whether it's the air dome seal, the center post gasket or the tub seals. (See Figure A and photos for locations.) Before proceeding, make sure that telltale drips are coming from around the tub. The details of this repair vary by brand and model. The details we show are for most Whirlpool and Kenmore belt drives. Study a schematic drawing or consult a parts specialist if your machine is different from what we show.
You'll need a special spanner wrench (Photo 4) to remove the tub and replace the tub fittings on this type of machine. It's available at your local appliance parts supplier. Follow Photos 1 - 5 to access the tub fittings. You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches (Photo 1). However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner's manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer's Web site or one of the sites listed in "Buying Parts.") You'll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber (Photo 1) before unclipping the ring (Photo 2). Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator (Photo 3) and inner tub (Photo 4).
There are four tub seals that secure the outer tub to the cabinet, each consisting of a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Rust often develops around one of the tub seals, causing a tub leak. A new tub seal kit will come with four new bolts and oversized rubber and metal washers that will seal small leaks (Photo 6). But if the tub is completely rusted through around the bolt, it's time to buy a new washing machine. Replace all four tub seals as shown in Photo 6.
If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket ("doughnut") is the culprit. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket (Photos 8 and 9). While you're at it, replace the air dome seal as well (Photo 8). Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle.


26268224-ux3w25rkntukitf5pqe3yxtw-3-20.jpg Buying Appliance Parts Washing machine parts are available at appliance parts distributors. (Look in the Yellow Pages under "Appliance Parts.") Try to find a parts supplier with well-informed staff, ideally ex-repair technicians, who can provide diagrams and help diagnose any problems specific to your brand of machine. A great Internet source is http://promotionssales.weebly.com/ find your model number to access exploded-view diagrams and a thorough parts list for easy on-line ordering.
You'll need the brand and model number for proper part identification. Model numbers are usually stamped on a small metal plate located under the tub lid or on the side or back of the machine. Copy down all the plate information and take it along to the parts distributor.

Aug 27, 2016 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Leak in front


see this steps and fix it. God bless you

Drain Pump

If the washer is leaking water the drain pump might have a hole or crack. Or, the bearings might be worn out. Replace the drain pump if it is leaking water, they're not repairable.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Tub Seal and Bearing Kit

If the washer is leaking water the tub seal and bearing might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub seal and bearing can be replaced. This is common and relatively easy to replace.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Tub Seal Kit

If the washer is leaking water the tub seal might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub seal can be replaced. The tub bearing often gets damaged when the seal leaks. consider replacing the tub bearing along with the tub seal.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Tub Spin Seal

If the washer is leaking water the tub spin seal might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub spin seal can be replaced. This is common and relatively easy to replace.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Tub Seal

If the washer is leaking water the tub seal might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The tub seal can be replaced. When the tub seal fails water gets into the tub bearings and usually causes the bearings to go bad also. It is a good idea to replace the tub bearings with the new tub seal.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Door Boot Seal

If the washer is leaking water the front door boot seal might have a tear or rip and is letting water leak past. The boot seal can be replaced. This part can tear when the washer is overloaded. This is common repair.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Tub to Pump Hose

If the washer is leaking water the hose from the tub to the pump might be split or torn. Don't try to cut off the bad piece of hose and stretch it to fit the pump, this will put strain on the remainder of the hose and may cause a sudden and complete failure of the hose which will dump potentially hundreds or thousands of gallons of water onto the floor because the next time the washer tries to fill all of the water will end up on the floor and so the washer will never shut off the valve. Any time there is a damaged hose, replace it completely with the OEM part.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Washing Machine Fill Hose

If the washer is leaking water, check the fill hoses on the back of the washer, this is the most common place for water to leak. If the washer still has the original black rubber fill hoses replace them with stainless steel or some other, more durable hose.


Enter your model number to see parts for your washing machine.
Help me find my model number


Drain Hose

If the washer is leaking water check the drain hose. The most common places for the hose to spring a leak is from the connection to the pump out to the back of the washer. Another common occurrence is when the washer gets pushed too far back against the wall.

Jul 09, 2013 | Bosch Nexxt Platinum WFMC640SUC

1 Answer

INSIDE WASHER RING BUSTED WATER LEAKING


If you are referring to the rubber door bellow (gray rubber seal), the following link explains how to access and replace one:


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574186-installing_a_door_bellow_on_a_front_load

A replacement bellow can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices differ between sites so shop and compare. The first three sites on the list, have helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you with locating and identifying any parts you may need.

If you are referring to the TUB SEAL that goes around the exterior perimeter of the wash tub where the front and rear halves meet, this is an inexpensive part, but requires extensive disassembly to get to. You can save a LOT in trying to attempt this repair on your own as this can take 1 to 2 hours for a qualified technician to perform. If you have a leaking tub seal and wish to attempt it on your own, please post back and clarify WHERE your leak is coming from.

Refer to the following parts illustrations:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The door bellow is listed as item 5 under the "Door and Latch Parts" section (part #8182119).

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The tub seal is listed as item 10 under the "Tub and Basket Parts" section (part #8181673).

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jun 19, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Washing machine leeks and doesnt complete cycle


When the washing machine starts leaking water all over the floor, you face a tough choice. Either call a service technician to fix the problem or purchase a new machine. Both decisions are expensive. Most service technicians charge $50 to $100 just to walk in the door and diagnose the problem, and labor expenses can quickly accumulate. After receiving the final bill, you may even wish you’d replaced the machine!
TIP: Make sure the water on the floor isn’t the result of a plugged floor drain. It happens! 
There are two types of washing machines: belt drive and direct drive.
If you open up the cabinet and don’t find any belts, then you’ve got a direct-drive machine. Repairs are similar for both machines, but generally easier on the direct-drive unit.
The following photos are from a belt-drive washing machine. If you have a direct drive, refer to your owner’s manual or diagrams (see “Buying Parts") for brand-specific details.
First, Replace Leaky Supply Hoses
The first step is to locate the source of the leak. Empty the washing machine, move it away from the wall and start the fill cycle. Look for drips around the water supply hose connection at the back of the machine while it fills with water. Shut off the water and replace any old, heavily corroded or rusted hoses with new ones. If the hoses are in good shape, replace the internal washers only. Special no-burst hoses ($10), regular hoses ($6) and new hose washers ($2 per 10-pack) are available at home centers and hardware stores.

Turn off the water main or shutoff valve and unscrew the supply hoses from the back of the machine with an adjustable pliers. Pry out the old hose washers with a flat-blade screwdriver. Install new gaskets in both hoses and reconnect the supply lines.
Second, Replace Leaky Internal Hoses
If the supply hoses aren’t leaking, open the cabinet and inspect the internal components. Belt-drive machines typically have a rear access panel that unscrews. Access direct-drive machines by removing the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flipping up the lid. Then pry up the cabinet clips and pull off the entire cabinet. With the cabinet open, restart the fill cycle to check for internal leaks. Look for additional clues like rust and calcium deposits. Most often you’ll find the leaks in the spots we show inFigure A.

Hoses tend to leak around a worn-out spring clamp. First try to remove the spring clamp with an adjustable pliers. If you can’t get it, you’ll need a special $15 hose clamp pliers available from your local parts supplier. Replace the old spring clamp with a new worm-drive clamp. If the hose itself is cracked and leaking, remove it and take it to the appliance parts supplier for a replacement.

CAUTION: Unplug the machine before performing any repairs.
Washing machine parts are available at appliance parts distributors. (Look in the Yellow Pages under “Appliance Parts.”) Try to find a parts supplier with a well-informed staff, ideally ex–repair technicians, who can provide diagrams and help diagnose any problems specific to your brand of machine. A great Internet source is www.searspartsdirect.com. Enter your model number to access exploded-view diagrams and a thorough parts list for easy on-line ordering.

You’ll need the brand and model number for proper part identification. Model numbers are usually stamped on a small metal plate located under the tub lid or on the side or back of the machine. Copy down all the plate information and take it along to the parts distributor.

Third, Replace a Leaky Pump
Fourth, Replace Worn-Out Tub Fittings

The most challenging repair is fixing a leaking tub fitting, whether it’s the air dome seal ($5), the center post gasket ($8) or the tub seals ($15 to $20). Before proceeding, make sure that telltale drips are coming from around the tub. The details of this repair vary by brand and model. The details we show are for most Whirlpool and Kenmore belt drives. Study a schematic drawing or consult a parts specialist if your machine is different from what we show.

You’ll need a special $15 spanner wrench to remove the tub and replace the tub fittings on this type of machine. It’s available at your local appliance parts supplier. You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches. However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner’s manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer’s Web site or one of the sites listed in “Buying Parts.”) You’ll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber before unclipping the ring. Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator and inner tub.

There are four tub seals that secure the outer tub to the cabinet, each consisting of a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Rust often develops around one of the tub seals, causing a tub leak. A new tub seal kit will come with four new bolts and oversized rubber and metal washers that will seal small leaks. But if the tub is completely rusted through around the bolt, it’s time to buy a new washing machine. Replace all four tub seals.

If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket (“doughnut”) is the culprit. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket. While you’re at it, replace the air dome seal as well. Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle.
Thank you Sir, Have a nice day.

Sep 17, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water spills all over the floor


Replacing Parts Second, Replace Leaky Internal Hoses
If the supply hoses aren’t leaking, open the cabinet and inspect the internal components. Belt-drive machines typically have a rear access panel that unscrews. Access direct-drive machines by removing the two screws on the outside of the control panel and flipping up the lid. Then pry up the cabinet clips and pull off the entire cabinet. With the cabinet open, restart the fill cycle to check for internal leaks. Look for additional clues like rust and calcium deposits. Most often you’ll find the leaks in the spots we show inFigure A.
Hoses tend to leak around a worn-out spring clamp. First try to remove the spring clamp with an adjustable pliers. If you can’t get it, you’ll need a special $15 hose clamp pliers available from your local parts supplier. Replace the old spring clamp with a new worm-drive clamp. If the hose itself is cracked and leaking, remove it and take it to the appliance parts supplier for a replacement.
CAUTION: Unplug the machine before performing any repairs.
Buying Parts
20030901_washing_machine_leaks_page003img004.jpg
Washing machine parts are available at appliance parts distributors. (Look in the Yellow Pages under “Appliance Parts.”) Try to find a parts supplier with a well-informed staff, ideally ex–repair technicians, who can provide diagrams and help diagnose any problems specific to your brand of machine. A great Internet source is www.searspartsdirect.com. Enter your model number to access exploded-view diagrams and a thorough parts list for easy on-line ordering.
You’ll need the brand and model number for proper part identification. Model numbers are usually stamped on a small metal plate located under the tub lid or on the side or back of the machine. Copy down all the plate information and take it along to the parts distributor.
Third, Replace a Leaky Pump
Fourth, Replace Worn-Out Tub Fittings
The most challenging repair is fixing a leaking tub fitting, whether it’s the air dome seal ($5), the center post gasket ($8) or the tub seals ($15 to $20). Before proceeding, make sure that telltale drips are coming from around the tub. The details of this repair vary by brand and model. The details we show are for most Whirlpool and Kenmore belt drives. Study a schematic drawing or consult a parts specialist if your machine is different from what we show.
You’ll need a special $15 spanner wrench to remove the tub and replace the tub fittings on this type of machine. It’s available at your local appliance parts supplier. You can open the top of many machines by releasing the spring catches. However, on others you have to unscrew several screws and lift off the entire cabinet. Look in your owner’s manual or at a parts diagram. (See the manufacturer’s Web site or one of the sites listed in “Buying Parts.”) You’ll have to unscrew the water inlet and the tub snubber before unclipping the ring. Fastening systems for these vary by brand, as do attachment methods for the agitator and inner tub.
There are four tub seals that secure the outer tub to the cabinet, each consisting of a bolt with a rubber and metal washer. Rust often develops around one of the tub seals, causing a tub leak. A new tub seal kit will come with four new bolts and oversized rubber and metal washers that will seal small leaks. But if the tub is completely rusted through around the bolt, it’s time to buy a new washing machine. Replace all four tub seals.
If the leaking occurs only when the machine is agitating, a bad center post gasket (“doughnut”) is the culprit. Remove the outer tub to replace the center post gasket. While you’re at it, replace the air dome seal as well. Reassemble the washing machine and run a test cycle.

Jul 14, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

2 Answers

Leak underneath tub


check for a broken seal at center of tub , if so , write down the brand & model and go to an APPLIANCE PARTS SHOP, and get a new RUBBER SEAL KIT, hope this helps , AJ

May 20, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water leaking


it could be the boot seal, (rubber piece that joins the tub to the front panel). the boot can get a hole in it or it can pull away from the tub if the clamp loosens. if it is the front of the outer tub that is cracked the manufacture did warranty the tub for ten years prior to 2006. check your owners manual as that is what the company has to honor. they only cover the part not labor, and in the usa only. i hope this helps.

Apr 21, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Leak


It sounds like you have a leak somewhere around the door bellow. This is the rubber boot that seals the wash tub to the door frame. Pull the folds back and inspect around the entire perimeter of the rubber. You could have a small rip or tear somewhere. There are a series of small holes in the bottom of the bellow that are supposed to be there. This is the allow any standing water to drain back into the wash tub. If you cannot find any obvious signs of leaks, remove the lower panel under the door. This is accomplished by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then off. Start the washer on a normal wash and watch for any leaks. If the door bellow leaks, the front counterweight (usually a concrete block) will begin to get wet and drip. This could also be an indication of the bellow clamp around the wash tub being loose. If the leak starts to pool under the washer and run out the front, this is usually an indication of a drain pump leak or drain line leak. Please inspect the washer with the panel removed and the washer on a load and post back and let me know. Go to my profile and use the "Ask Me" feature for a quicker response. I hope this helps you.

PS One other item. On the left hand side of the door bellow is the a dispenser tube that penetrates through the bellow and allows water to enter the wash tub. Sometimes the dispenser tube is not seated all the way into the rubber (should be seated past the flange) and it will dispense water behind the rubber instead of into the wash tub. Just something else to consider...

Jun 20, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

3 Answers

Kenmore Elite Washing Machine leaking water


Okay...my experience with this model front loader leads to the following possible problems:

CAUTION: UNPLUG the washer if you plan to service the interior. It is dangerous to have your hands inside the unit with moving parts and energized. Plug the washer back in and stand back if you plan on doing any operation checks.

1. Door bellow ripped or torn (this is the gray rubber boot around the door - open the door and inspect along the entire door boot. Including the areas behind the rubber fold where the rubber meets the wash tub. It is common for them wear out and tear. NOTE: Make sure the fill hose on the left-hand side of the door boot is fully snug in place. Sometimes it will come loose and leak BEHIND the door boot.

2. Drain pump or hoses leaking - You will need to remove the lower panel under the door to see inside the washer. Remove the three torx type screws under the front lip at the bottom of the panel. For easier access, place a small block of wood under each front foot. The washer is heavy so you may need assistance to lift the front slightly. CAUTION: Do not lift on the door, push on the door panel or control panel. If the panel sticks, slightly tap on the sides and it will drop down and come off. The pump is located in the front under the wash tub. Make sure the clean out trap is snug and all your hoses are tight and not torn. Check the drain hose that leads out of the back of the washer from the drain pump to ensure it is not cracked.

3. Air Dome hose has come loose from the tub - This will be a small rubber hose connected to a plastic piece (called an air dome) on the right-hand side of the wash tub as you are looking in from where you removed the bottom panel. It should be located behind the drain pump and mounted physically to the wash tub. The other end of this hose runs to the pressure switch, which turns the water flow off when the washer tub fills to the approriate level. If this hose comes off, the washer will start to leak on the FILL cycle and will not shut off. I don't think this is what you are talking about, but it is still worth a look since you have the panel opened.

4. Tub seal leaking or tub cracked - These would be the most undesirable of all possible problems because it would require the removal of the entire wash tub in order to correct. Inspect the wash tub seam and make sure there's no water coming from around the tub.

I hope this gives you a few possible items to work with. Inpsect the washer interior when you get the panel off and post back if you can determine where the leak is coming from.

HELPFUL HINT: Put the washer into diagnostics mode if you plan to leak test. At the control panel select DRAIN/SPIN, NO SPIN and press any key under OPTIONS 4 times (it must be the SAME key, however). "C00" will be displayed on the operator console, and you will hear the door latch engage. The washer will run through a series of tests by filling using hot and cold water, checks all your dispenser features, tumbles the drum, spins and drains. This diagnostics can be stopped at any time by pressing the PAUSE/CANCEL button twice. The drain pump will come on and drain the washer.

I hope this helps you...

Feb 20, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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