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Re: belt tension lever repair
Go to Sears Parts Direct.com and type in your model number it will direct you to 4 different views of this tool. I believe you want figure 2 and it looks like there is a hex nut that needs removed, but check this out first. Hope this helps and Good Luck. Dave
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You don't give make and model, but a quick look shows these links. For length, pull string tight around the pulleys with slipknot. Use the pulley release lever to remove the string, cut it and pull it taught. Measure the length and subtract a half inch. With a make and model, it would be easy.
I'm not familiar with this particular model, but most drill presses have a similar design. The top cover should flip up, exposing the the pulleys and belts. At the back end of the machine where the motor is located, there should be one or two bolts that put tension on the motor, which in turn tightens the belts. When these bolts/nuts are loosened, it should put slack on the belt (s)., allowing the belt to be taken off. There may also be an tensioned idler arm/pulley which puts tension on the belt, such as an intermediate belt. That pulley can be moved to release tension as well. After new belt(s) is installed re-tighten the motor tensioning bolt/nut, allowing for some slack in the belt.
You've probably already tried looking for set screws on the pulleys,
both the pulleys that attach to the spindle and the pulleys on the motor
shaft, to remove both/either sets of pulleys and allow replacing the
belt. I didn't mean to restate the obvious; I'm just brainstorming.
I've restored a few old machine tools, and I've found that removing
pulleys often requires the use of gear pullers. This is due to slight
mushrooming of the ends of the shaft due to heating or hammering. I
have even had to file the end of the shaft in one case to reduce the
diameter before I could remove the pulley. Also, based on your picture,
you might be able to remove the entire motor from its mounting to allow
replacing the belt. read more at http://www.bestcordlessdrillhq.com/
The quill is separate from the pulley. All you need to do is remove a bolt on the opposite side of the handle, this should let you uncover the return spring. Take the spring off and pull the handle out, on the right side. the quill will then come out the bottom
Release the belts and check if you can turn the chuck by habd, if the chuck won;t turn, two things could be wrong, 1) the quill bearings are bad or 2) the shaft that runs down thru the quill could ve rusted causing a restriction, if that's the case, WD 40 should loosen it.
If adjustments are necessary, follow the this procedure: Spindle side-play can be minimized by adjusting the locknut located on the left side of the motor unit 1-1/2 inches behind the spindle and towards the bottom of the motor unit. While moving the feed handle up and down, tighten the lock nut until the play is minimized, but not so tight so as to restrict free movement of the spindle. The spindle should return by itself to the full up position. The drive belt tension may be adjusted by removing the top cover and then loosening the two nuts on either side of the motor pulley. Adjust the motor position and tighten the nuts so that moderate finger pressure against the belt causes it to deflect 3/16" to 1/4" (see Figure 6). Excessive belt tension may result in damage to the bearings. Note: Belt tension can also affect the generation of "noise" in the drill press. Although it does not affect drilling accuracy, it may be desirable to adjust the tension for minimum noise. The spindle has been generously oiled at the factory. You may have to periodically wipe off oil that makes its way down the spindle.