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Re: belt tension lever repair
Go to Sears Parts Direct.com and type in your model number it will direct you to 4 different views of this tool. I believe you want figure 2 and it looks like there is a hex nut that needs removed, but check this out first. Hope this helps and Good Luck. Dave
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Remove the front panel by removing the three screws at the bottom of the panel and then tilting it up to unhook it at the top. Make sure the machine is disconnected from the electrical power - not just switched off but unplugged at the socket. Look for the belt between the electric motor and the main drive pulley of the agitator and also locate the belt tensioner which is a small pulley pressing against the belt under tension of a spring hook onto it. Pull and keep the tensioner away by hand to allow the removal of the belt starting at the motor pulley. Replace with the new belt by starting at the agitator pulley. Keep the tensioner pulley out of the way until the belt is fitted on both pulleys and then allow it to settle against the belt again. Do not adjust the spring tension and buy the correct belt from speed queen as it requires a graphite type belt. An ordinary vehicle v-belt will not work - repeat will not work. Replace the cover by hooking it in first at the top and then replacing the screws at the bottom.
It sounds like the motor is bogging down due to bad bearings or something is making the shaft too hard to spin. Make sure all the spindles are free. If its happening under load, make sure the lathe gets up to speed before trying to make any cuts.
With the mower off. Look on top of the deck.Find the pulleys for the blades then find the engine pulley.There should be one more pulley that is the tension pulley.Watch that pulley as you pull the engage blade lever,while still turned off.The belt will go on the blade pulleys,and the engine pulley,it needs the tension pulley to push it tight.So you need to make sure it goes on the inside of the tension pulley.If you get the belt on and it does not engage,just remove it and replace it on the opposite side of the tension pulley.
The most common cause of this is the drive belt is worn or broken. Sometimes the drive cable stretches (from the handle to the trans) To check the belts and tension you remove the cover (usually plastic) in the middle of the snow thrower to look at the belts. Your operator's manual will show you how to remove the cover and check/change the belts. If you don't have a copy you can get the manual through managemyhome.com You will need the model number off the snowblower. It is usually located on the bottom right hand corner of the frame (from the handle side) The model number looks like 247.123456. The belt closest to the engine drives the transmission. With the engine not running, have someone depress the drive lever and check the belt. You should only be able to depress the long side 1/2 inch or less. More than that the belt has stretched and needs to be replaced. On some older blowers you can adjust the tension pulley, but most made in the last 15 years, you can't. The belt may be frayed on the edges or glazed causing it to slip (it is shiny on the sides of the belt) It may be torn and broke completely. You can get parts for your Craftsman and most MTD made models through searspartsdirect.com or jackssmallengines.com. If you are unfamiliar with repairing machines you can get your MTD snow blower repaired by taking it to your local Sears. They will have a technician troubleshoot and repair the unit. Feel free to ask any other questions. I know Snow Blowers. Please remember to rate this answer!
The most common cause of this is the drive belt is worn. In other cases the cable from the hand lever to the belt drive breaks or comes off.
To look at the belts and inspect the operation of the cable you remove the cover (usually plastic) in the middle of the snow thrower.
Your operator's manual will show you how to remove the cover and check/change the belts. If you don't have a copy you can get the manual through managemyhome.com
You will need the model number off the snowblower. It is usually located on the bottom right hand corner of the frame (from the handle side). The model number looks like 247.123456.
The belt closest to the to the engine drives the transmission. This is the transmission drive belt. (Your operators manual will show you the location and how to remove the cover if you are unfamiliar with your snow blower)
With the engine not running, have someone depress the drive lever and check the belt. You should only be able to depress the long side 1/2 inch or less. More than that the belt has stretched and needs to be replaced.
On some older blowers you can adjust the tension pulley, but most made in the last 15 years, you can't. The belt may be frayed on the edges or glazed causing it to slip (it is shiny on the sides of the belt) It may be torn and broke completely.
You can get parts for you Craftsman and most MTD made models through searspartsdirect.com. With other makes you can get parts through jackssmallengines.com
If you are unfamiliar with repairing machines you can get your snow blower repaired by taking it to your local Sears. They will have a technician troubleshoot and repair the unit.
Feel free to ask any other questions. I know Snow Blowers. Please remember to rate this answer!
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION of timing belt:
Fig. 1: View of the timing belt cover
Fig. 2: Loosen then timing belt tensioner using a ratchet and short socket
Fig. 3: Matchmark the direction of rotation of the timing belt
Fig. 4: Once loose, pull the belt off the camshaft pulley
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Turn the crankshaft to align the timing belt matchmarks and set cylinder No. 1 to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke. Once in this position, the engine must NOT be turned or disturbed.
Remove all necessary components to gain access to the cylinder head and timing belt covers.
Remove the cylinder head and timing belt covers.
There are 2 belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft pulley is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shafts and is referred to as the balancer belt or timing balancer belt. Lock the timing belt adjuster in position by installing one of the lower timing belt cover bolts to the adjuster arm.
Loosen the timing belt and balancer shafts tensioner adjuster nut, but do not loosen the nut more than 1 turn. Push the tensioner for the balancer belt away from the belt to relieve the tension. Hold the tensioner and tighten the adjusting nut to hold the tensioner in place.
Carefully remove the balancer belt. Do not crimp or bend the belt; protect it from contact with oil or coolant. Slide the belt off the pulleys.
Remove the balancer belt drive sprocket from the crankshaft.
Loosen the lockbolt installed to the timing belt adjuster and loosen the adjusting nut. Push the timing belt adjuster to remove the tension on the timing belt, then tighten the adjuster nut.
Remove the timing belt. Do not crimp or bend the belt; protect it from contact with oil or coolant. Slide the belt off the pulleys.
If defective, remove the belt tensioners by performing the following:
Remove the springs from the balancer belt and the timing belt tensioners.
Remove the adjusting nut.
Remove the bolt from the balancer belt adjuster lever, then remove the lever and the tensioner pulley.
Remove the lockbolt from the timing belt tensioner lever, then remove the tensioner pulley and lever from the engine.
This is an excellent time to check or replace the water pump. Even if the timing belt is only being replaced as part of a good maintenance schedule, consider replacing the pump at the same time.
If the water pump is to be replaced, install a new O-ring and make certain it is properly seated. Install the water pump and retaining bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
If the tensioners were removed, perform the following to install them:
Install the timing belt tensioner lever and tensioner pulley.
NOTE: The tensioner lever must be properly positioned on its pivot pin located on the oil pump. Be sure that the timing belt lever and tensioner moves freely and does not bind.
Install the lockbolt to the timing belt tensioner, do not tighten the lockbolt at this time.
Install the balancer belt pulley and adjuster lever.
Install the adjusting nut and the bolt to the balancer belt adjuster lever. Do not tighten the adjuster nut or bolt at this time.
NOTE: Be sure that the balancer lever and tensioner moves freely and does not bind.
Install the springs to the tensioners.
Move the timing belt tensioner its full deflection and tighten the lockbolt.
Move the balancer its full deflection and tighten the adjusting nut.
The crankshaft timing pointer must be perfectly aligned with the white mark on the flywheel or flex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP is at the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley are aligned with the surfaces of the head.
Install the timing belt over the pulleys and tensioners.
Loosen the bolt used to lock the timing belt tensioner. Loosen, then tighten the timing belt adjusting nut.
Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until the cam pulley has moved 3 teeth; this creates tension on the timing belt. Loosen, then tighten the adjusting nut and tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Tighten the bolt used to lock the timing belt tensioner.
Realign the timing belt marks, then install the balancer belt drive sprocket on the crankshaft.
Align the front balancer pulley; the face of the front timing balancer pulley has a mark, which must be aligned with the notch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one at 10 o'clock to the crank pulley when viewed from the pulley end.
Align the rear timing balancer pulley (2 o'clock from the crank pulley) using a 6 x 100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.9 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the bolt or rod into the hole. Align the 2.9 in. (74mm) mark with the face of the hole. This pin will hold the shaft in place during installation.
Install the balancer belt. Once the belts are in place, be sure that all the engine alignment marks are still correct. If not, remove the belts, realign the engine and reinstall the belts. Once the belts are properly installed, slowly loosen the adjusting nut, allowing the tensioner to move against the belt. Remove the pin from the maintenance hole and reinstall the bolt and washer.
Turn the crankshaft 1 full turn, then tighten the adjuster nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Remove the bolt used to lock the timing belt tensioner.
Install the lower cover, ensuring the rubber seals are in place. Install a new seal around the adjusting nut, DO NOT loosen the adjusting nut.
Install the key on the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Apply oil to the bolt threads and tighten it to 181 ft. lbs. (250 Nm).
Install the upper timing belt cover and all applicable components. When installing the side engine mount, tighten the bolt and nut attaching the mount to the engine to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm) and the through-bolt and nut to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
Connect the negative battery cable.
For water pump removal and installation contact me:
Sears has stock on parts for major brand dryers Go to SEARS.COM and see with your make and model number
The top and front panel will need to be removed to service these parts The drum will simply pull out once apart to replace the belt and tensioner pulley The pulley has a bearing that wears out so replace that as well
It sounds like you might have a bad bearing in one of the quill assemblys, which is causing the belt to come off, the easiest way to fix this is to replace all the quill assemblys or at least all the bearings in them, usually the pulleys do not cause this problem unless you see damage to the pulley face where the belt rides, mis-alighnment in-proper tension is the secong reason for belts to fail to stay on while mowing. To fix this problem you need the factory specs for belt tension and reccomendation on adjusting belt travel. Hope this helps Don
The most likely cause of the mower belt coming off is a bearing in the quill assembly which are the upright units that have the pulley on top and the mower blade on the bottom, what usually happens is a bearing statrts to go bad, which allows the pulley to startmoving out of alignment with the other pulleys which causes the belt to ride up on a flange and come off. Usually I reccommend that when you replace one bearing or complete quill assembly you replace all bearings, or quill assemblies this way everything is in like new condition and the problem should be solved. Hope This Helps Don
You find a 17 mm bolt under the belt or a 15 mm bolt in the middle of the tension pulley. If you undo the bolat this will
release the belt tension. To remove the belt turn the bolt by slipping a 4' pipe
over the socket wrench handle. Use a wrench as a lever to slide out the belt. Put the new belt last on the idler pulley that contacts the belt only on the smooth
side. Do not unscrew the Button Torx bolt in the center of the tension pulley, it is not needed.