PANAFLO COOLING FAN

Normally when the cabinet is extremely hot it is an indication that the condenser grill is not getting enough airflow accross it to cool down the freon. Then could be because the condenser fan is not operating or the condenser grill is dirty or there is no front to back air flow.

So first thing you need to do is check and make sure the condenser fan is working (the one under your unit). If it isn't then replace the fan motor. If it is functional, then clean the condenser grill (the one underneath the unit) and if that is not the problem, then I would suggest you raise your frigerater up (put on a 2x4 or 4x4 (front to back) to increase air flow.

I have a refrigerator is my garage also, and was having similar issues until I raised my unit up, which also helped with keeping the condenser grill clean.

I wouldn't worry about the sensor error right away.

Sometimes that's just caused when the door is opened before steam could be detected or steam was not detected in the maximum amount of time.

Once it's all working again, if you still get the error regularly, it may be a bad humidity sensor.

If the internal cooling fan IS running when you try to cook AND the oven is not heating, it's probably a failed secondary interlock relay on the control circuit board.

If the internal cooling fan is NOT running when you try to cook AND it's not heating, the bottom door switch is probably the culprit.

Here's is a file on checking and replacing door switches.

We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are working.

Listen to that very carefully, and listen to yours to see if the cooling fan is working.

When I say internal cooling fan, I do not mean the hood vent exhaust fan which you can turn on and off manually.

I'm instead talking about the internal fan which comes on automatically whenever you microwave.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Let me know if I can help you further.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

does the indoor fan blow? If it does you are getting the 24 volts from the thermostat to the ouside contactor need to check your contactor in the oustide unit this is what kicks on the compressor it take the 24 volts and goes to 230 volts to run the compressor and condensor fan. check your schematic for the placement of the contactor.

check your releyss
go to the salvage yard and buy a couple for 2 bucks each or a pocket full for free

Compressor could not work without cooling fan comming on.
Check compressor mounting bolts and belt placement on pulley regarding the noise.
But before we get to the a/c system repairs its important to have a properly working cooling system.

Is the car overheating ? It should if neither fan works.
If I recall correctly the fan switch is usually on the upper radiator hose coupling.
you may want to test the fan(s) its self. Remove the electical connectors fron the fan(s) , fabricate a set of jumper wires and run it from the battery. If this works the fan(s) are ok . If it doesn't replace the ones that don't work.
The coolant switch aka fan switch is usually tested with an ohmmeter . Use shop manual for testing procedure.
Test the a/c fan and engine cooling fan relays. (see shop manual for details)
Then I would start looking at coolant( correct mixture and thermostat) although the thermostat is not likely to cause this.
If all of this still doesn't correct the problem it may be the ECU that monitors this system it may not be responding to the signal /voltage from coolant temp sensor to turn on the fan, (again nedd shop manual to test this)
Once you have a properly working cooling systemnow you can turn your focus on the a/c. Compressors either work or they don't.For you safety I recommend having the a/c system serviced by a ASE certified Technician or a tech's who legally can perform a/c service. Good luck

The screen needs to be replaced. Sadly, you cannot buy a new screen, it has to be harvested from another used model. And even if you get it out without damaging it, it is extremely dificult to make the swap, even for someone with experience.

Headgasket may be blown. Try using the Goop found at local auto centre "Liquid Coolant Sealant"
Issue you are having is carbons leaking into the coolant tank is causing additional "BOIL" almost like blowing extremely hot air into water... Causing it to boil.
Your A/C is alone part of your Blower Fan, a completely different element to the cooling system, and you will need to recharge your AC
Try the goop. It really does work!!

If you have cooling fans, then it could be your compressor itself. If you hit the A/C button, and there's no cooling fans, try a new "Cooling Fan Control Module" it's a common problem on early 2000 VW's.

Compressor will be hot to the touch. You stated the fan was replaced and then said the fan is not cooling. If you replaced the fan and it is now operating, reinstall the panel you removed to install the fan motor. That panel determines proper air circulation to cool the system.

Check the connection of the electrical harness to the fan motor. If it is fully connected and the motor still does not run replace the fan motor. The fan MUST operate at the same time as the compressor to properly cool the system. Spin the fan blade by hand with he power off. If it turns with any resistance the bearings are dry and in most cases the motor is replaced.