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Electricity cost per hour

How much does 1500w/5118 btu cost an hour? I am using a space heater to help heat up a room when I am cold. But would it be cheaper to warm up with running the heater on my home or using the space heater in a room?

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1500w / 1000w = 1.5 kwh. Every hour you run (assuming it is at 100% peak power) you use 1.5 kw. Just multiply that rate by how much it your power company charges per kwh.

Estimating high at 10 cents per kwh it would be $1 for every 10 hours you run the heater, or $2.40 per day, or about $72 per month if you ran it 24/7 for 30 days.

It is FAR cheaper to use these types heaters to heat one small room than an entire apartment or house if you are only in one room the majority of the time.

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

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I have a GloWarm propane/lp gas space heater. Can I use bottled propane tanks?


no you can't, and aren't you worried about carbon monoxide poisoning? Where does the burnt air go?

GloWarm Heaters - ventfree infrared heaters
GloWarm Infrared heaters are residential gas space heaters that are ventfree,
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Tip

How to heat a garage or workshop




Two things to consider in buying a space heater - the require BTU and the electricla cost to heat your space.


You can go here to calculate your estimated BTU need - http://www.calculator.net/btu-calculator.html
or just look up "BTU calculator' on line and there are other BTU calculators as well.

The BTU is what is pretty much required to effectively and efficiently heat to the temperature range you are comfortable with. It's a matter of the maximum degrees you want to raise the temperature. In my case I wanted to be able to increase the ambient temperature in my woodworking workshop from 40 degrees to 65 degrees and I have less than favorable insulation in this workshop, so my desired BTU is 16,359 at 4,794 watts. This heater meets that demand quite nicely.

As for cost, as I mention in the video (link above) the two ceramic space heaters were costing me about $1.56 per evening to heat my workshop. This heater is costing me only about 92 cents for the same length of time. I have immediate savings of over 62 cents per evening of use! Why the huge difference? Because the other two space heaters had to run continuously at combined 3,000 watts for 2 hours to heat the space and then continuously to maintain the desired temperature. The Dr Heater DR966 bring s my workshop from 40 to 60-65 degree in a half hour at 6,000 watts and then only runs intermittently at 3,000 watts to maintain that temperature. Therefore I am using less electricity to heat my shop to 65 degrees and to maintain that temperature.

I have my heater connected to a 30amp circuit breaker and have had no issues with the electrical demand of the heater tripping the breaker. But I am also using a six-foot long 6-gauge cord from the heater to the outlet and 8-gauge wire from the outlet to the breaker and the outlet is mounted directly underneath the sub-panel, so there virtually no distance from the breaker to the six-foot cord.

If the BTU supply of this heater meets your BTU demands I recommend that you get this heater and see for yourself what it's like to have a well heated work space. It's nice!
Here's a link to view the heater I used.

http://astore.amazon.com/wwwdogwoodtal-20

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Calculate the Cubic Footage of the area to be heated (i,e. Total confined space square footage x ceiling height = Cubic Footage). So let's say the total cubic footage is 3.808. To be considered unconfined space in this example, the total maximum aggregate input rating of all gas-fired appliances installed in the 3,808 cu. ft. space must not exceed 76,160 BTU per hour; (3,808 divided by 50) x 1,000 equals 76,160 BTU per hour.

Normal air infiltration into a confined space will be adequate to supply the necessary fresh air for proper combustion and ventilation if the building is not constructed unusually tight. If it is tightly constructed, some type of fresh air intake should be installed. Being that this 50,000 Btu wall heater is required to be vented to the outside, you can figure that up to 20 to 25% of the heat produced is going up the stack or chimney. That leaves you with a total of 37,500 Btu's dedicated to heating the building.

Placement of the wall heater can be critical in even heat distribution. Of course, it will always be warmer closer to the heater.

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The owner's manual is available as a PDF here: http://www.delonghiusa.com/index.php?product&nid=107 .

Many recommend you plug the heater in and turn it on in a well-ventilated room (like a garage) for the few hours of use. If you are using the heater to warm a room, plug it in with the thermostat set to maximum and set the power selector to 3 until the room reaches the desired temperature. Then rotate the thermostat clockwise until you hear a click. You can set the power level to 1 or 2 to conserve energy while maintaining the current temperature settings.

If you are trying to avoid frozen pipes in an area, plug in the heater and set the power selector to 3 and thermostat to *.

Always remember to keep anything flammable away from the heater (loose drapes etc.) There is an overheating protection circuit built into the unit. To reset it, you need to call the DeLonghi service center.

I hope this helps.

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A bit late for you probably Steve, but other browsers might be interested...

Micathermics are faster to warm up the room than other resistive heaters, but otherwise they're no more efficient - so it depends whether you feel that the fast warm up is worth the extra money that the micathermic would cost.

If your ceiling is well insulated (including over the wall plates at the top of the internal walls) then the large windows are very likely the reason that your underfloor heating can't get the heat high enough. Have you considered double glazing? 3M have a very cheap, disposable window insulation kit that you could put on for a cold season to see if it's worth putting in some more permanent double glazing (and in fact that kit will probably last 2 or 3 cold seasons if you just leave it up).

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