How much does 1500w/5118 btu cost an hour? I am using a space heater to help heat up a room when I am cold. But would it be cheaper to warm up with running the heater on my home or using the space heater in a room?
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The BTU is what is pretty much required to effectively and efficiently heat to the temperature range you are comfortable with. It's a matter of the maximum degrees you want to raise the temperature. In my case I wanted to be able to increase the ambient temperature in my woodworking workshop from 40 degrees to 65 degrees and I have less than favorable insulation in this workshop, so my desired BTU is 16,359 at 4,794 watts. This heater meets that demand quite nicely.
As for cost, as I mention in the video (link above) the two ceramic space heaters were costing me about $1.56 per evening to heat my workshop. This heater is costing me only about 92 cents for the same length of time. I have immediate savings of over 62 cents per evening of use! Why the huge difference? Because the other two space heaters had to run continuously at combined 3,000 watts for 2 hours to heat the space and then continuously to maintain the desired temperature. The Dr Heater DR966 bring s my workshop from 40 to 60-65 degree in a half hour at 6,000 watts and then only runs intermittently at 3,000 watts to maintain that temperature. Therefore I am using less electricity to heat my shop to 65 degrees and to maintain that temperature.
I have my heater connected to a 30amp circuit breaker and have had no issues with the electrical demand of the heater tripping the breaker. But I am also using a six-foot long 6-gauge cord from the heater to the outlet and 8-gauge wire from the outlet to the breaker and the outlet is mounted directly underneath the sub-panel, so there virtually no distance from the breaker to the six-foot cord.
If the BTU supply of this heater meets your BTU demands I recommend that you get this heater and see for yourself what it's like to have a well heated work space. It's nice!
Here's a link to view the heater I used. http://astore.amazon.com/wwwdogwoodtal-20
According to the owners manual, the "Economy" mode is designed to reduce the temperature setting by 2 degrees every hour. May not be what you were expecting... On the too hot issue: Check the thermostat setting - it can read either Celsius or Farenheit - Make sure you are setting it to what you think you are... Recommendation: if it is heating higher than set temperature is 1) set the temp lower and see how it does or 2) call a repair man to check and calibrate the thermostat.
Along with warming up the entire area, people also look to warm up the floor, which can otherwise be harshly cold. Underfloor heating sdystem is the most consistent form as it evenly warms up the complete open space. Infrared Heater Room Heater IR Heater Magneto
Calculate the Cubic Footage of the area to be heated (i,e. Total confined space square footage x ceiling height = Cubic Footage). So let's say the total cubic footage is 3.808. To be considered unconfined
space in this example, the total maximum aggregate input rating of all
gas-fired appliances installed in the 3,808 cu. ft. space must not
exceed 76,160 BTU per hour; (3,808 divided by 50) x 1,000 equals 76,160
BTU per hour.
Normal air infiltration into
a confined space will be adequate to supply the necessary fresh air for
proper combustion and ventilation if the building is not constructed
unusually tight. If it is tightly constructed, some type of fresh air intake should be installed. Being that this 50,000 Btu wall heater is required to be vented to the outside, you can figure that up to 20 to 25% of the heat produced is going up the stack or chimney. That leaves you with a total of 37,500 Btu's dedicated to heating the building.
Placement of the wall heater can be critical in even heat distribution. Of course, it will always be warmer closer to the heater.
I hope this helped answer your question. Thanks for choosing FixYa.
Many recommend you plug the heater in and turn it on in a well-ventilated room (like a garage) for the few hours of use. If you are using the heater to warm a room, plug it in with the thermostat set to maximum and set the power selector to 3 until the room reaches the desired temperature. Then rotate the thermostat clockwise until you hear a click. You can set the power level to 1 or 2 to conserve energy while maintaining the current temperature settings.
If you are trying to avoid frozen pipes in an area, plug in the heater and set the power selector to 3 and thermostat to *.
Always remember to keep anything flammable away from the heater (loose drapes etc.) There is an overheating protection circuit built into the unit. To reset it, you need to call the DeLonghi service center.
Maintaining the lowest acceptable setting and leaving it at that temperature is the most economical way to run the unit. If the space is going to be unoccupied for an extended time (several hours), lower temperatures are okay. This minimizes the need to burst the heat to warm the space quicker. As I understand your unit, it minimizes electrical & gas consumption by basing the need on the temperature difference of actual space temperature and setpoint. The larger the gap, the more power and gas is consumed.
In summary, when the space is occupied, maintain a consistent temperature setting. When the space is unoccupied, maintain a lower setpoint.
this is a tough call but with 2000 watts in each room there should be more than enough heat .the rooms should maintain a average temp of 73 to 78 degrees temp without weatherazation and that is of course there is no drafts coming from any windows or near a front or back door that opens and closes alot . Basiclly you have it covered but definatley get the house winterize/insulated real good.I would keep 1 or 2 space heaters on hand just incase the person in house feels there cold just to cover yourself ,usually it the female complaining its cold if its not warm enough but there have been some males that need that temp to be 80 degrees all the time.good luck but im sure it will be ok!!
sounds like your pilot saftey is working.the pilot flame heats a device called a thermacoupler which gives a signal to the gas valve letting it know its ok to open main valve. you may need a new thermacouple , might have a dirty pilot orfice or a problem with gas pressure or worse case a cracked heat exchanger in any case in less you have some type of training you should call a pro
A bit late for you probably Steve, but other browsers might be interested...
Micathermics are faster to warm up the room than other resistive heaters, but otherwise they're no more efficient - so it depends whether you feel that the fast warm up is worth the extra money that the micathermic would cost.
If your ceiling is well insulated (including over the wall plates at the top of the internal walls) then the large windows are very likely the reason that your underfloor heating can't get the heat high enough. Have you considered double glazing? 3M have a very cheap, disposable window insulation kit that you could put on for a cold season to see if it's worth putting in some more permanent double glazing (and in fact that kit will probably last 2 or 3 cold seasons if you just leave it up).
The heater power (kW) required to get that extra 2 degC depends on how well the room is insulated. Your best bet would be to find out how much kW your underfloor heating is putting out and how much degC it is warming up the room, then keep the same proportions to work out how much extra kW you need.