Question about Sanyo Refrigerators
It is a SRM-CD1210DAS Two Door Display Cabinet. It has a key pad but i don't know how to set the temp. Can anyone help??
If the panel temperature reads 0 F 0 F it is in the "DEMO" mode. This is normal if you purchase a floor model. To bring it back to normal mode press ENERGY SAVER & ADJUST FREEZER together for 3 to 5 seconds until it beeps. Then unplug the referidgerator for at least 30 seconds. Then plug it bck in. That will reset the stupid computer and get it back to normal operation.
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Posted on Apr 24, 2009
Good call Cooltech! My new LG "open box" deal from Best Buy must have been delivered once before. I hauled it home, plugged it in and Er CO was on the display. The doors must have been removed to get through tight spaces, exposing the bundle of wires and connectors under the left hinge cover. One wire had been repaired with a crimp lug, wire cut too short, and the crimp was no good. I soldered the connection and added 2" of wire so it wouldn't be stressed. Works!
Posted on Mar 17, 2010
OK, First let us check the compressor to see if running or trying to start. Pull away from wall and unplug from wall. Remove lower cover and feel the compressor top of the to see if too hot to hold hand there, cool or warm. look inside freezer and tell me if ice is building on rear wall. Answer that and I will be able to tell you what we need to do, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on May 07, 2010
Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . ( If you notice your compressor is not running before unplugguing the blue plug , then jump wire1 to wire3 to see if the compressor runs . If so , then the main control board is bad . Plug the refrig back in to see if compressor starts with the jumper wire in place , ) . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature .
Posted on Jun 27, 2010
I had a similar problem, paid a technician $90 to tell me to defrost the entire unit for 15-20 hours, and now it works like new. It is supposed to self defrost, but with poor circulation in the freezer (simply caused by too much stuff in there) the unit frosts up. This caused a rising temp in the freezer leading to inconsistent temps.
Anyone reading this with a similar issue, save your money and defrost it overnight. You should see a pool of water in the bottom of the freezer after defrost if this was the problem.
Posted on Aug 12, 2010
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