I just recently went to pick up my pictures and none of 8 rolls took. all the negatives were clear. I did a test to see if the film was advancing by sacrificing a roll of fil and it was. What could cause this problem to happen? Lesson leraned--develop your pictures as you take them so you an catch a problem early on. Tim
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Are you looking at the picture as in a print OR are you holding the negative up to the light and looking at it that way. Don't touch the negatives, they should be in a protective sleeve but you can see through it. You should be able to see if the spacing between the frames is messed up and if you have lighter and darker negatives. Looking at a print from an automated one hour service isn't worth the time of day to determine a problem. The Pentax K1000 is the work horse of the century for students learning photography and a lot of them have seen extensive use, also the camera is quite old. What I expect is if the negatives are showing overlapping frames AND the exposure is off sometimes over and other times underexposed then the camera needs service lubrication and adjustment. It's great that the light meter is working but the shutter speed could be off and the advance is skipping giving the overlap. I don't know where you are in this world but in Canada that's a $80.00 to $120.00 fix and have the repair person change the light seals while he/she has it apart. The Pentax K1000 is still a great camera it's up to you whether or not to spend the money. I can't tell you what to do but I can suggest that if you are going to shoot film you find some place that does it with a little more human touch. Hope this was a help
link to your manual, it tells us that we have a winding motor problem, I would do as you have done, so I would ensure that batterys are in great shape, the only other thing I could suggest is to try to turn the winding motor by hand in case it is just locked up. Failing that I presume the motor has died and needs replacement.
Completely. The shutter is badly damaged and I'll be very surprised if your fix has permanently cured it, but fingers crossed... If not, there's only one fix. Chuck the camera away (spare shutter assemblies are nearly as rare as hens' teeth/fresh **** ****) and replace it.
There are loads of T-series bodies and later Canon EOS triple digit/Rebel models available for free just by asking on FreeCycle and Freegle. Note that the lens mount used on the T-series is different to the Canon Autofocus mount used on later models. Also plenty of all the other makes as well. You may have to wait and to ask a few times, but it's where I still get the majority of my 35mm film camera equipment.
Nothing is wrong. The file names of the recent pictures probably duplicate those of your old pictures. Your computer is probably caching the images associated with those names until you double-click on them.
Since you declined to specify the type of computer and the software you're using, I'm afraid I can't tell you how to clear the cache. I also assume you're not really connecting your 35mm SLR camera to your computer.
you should have at least 6in. of exposed film from the film canister to the take-up spool unless you loaded the film in total darkness.
open the back cover to make sure the shutter is working, reload and give it another try.
the battery you mention is used for memory back up. when you change the main batteries this battery keeps the memory from needing reset. if the film is completely clear the film was not exposed to light. now if the film was transported and the meter and LED was working then the shutter was not opening, an easy check----- just take the lens off and fire the shutter a few times. the shutter may not fire if the film door is opened.
if the shutter is not opening it must be replaced, if you can find a camera repair shop that fixes vintage camera's any parts replaced will be good used.
I would suggest you buy an off-brand roll of 12 or 24 exposures. Run it through the camera taking snaps of anything -- but make sure you vary the lighting, ISO, shutter speed, aperture, etc. as you snap the pics. Don't worry too much about composition. This roll is a quick test, NOT for photos to keep.
Have the film developed and then follow-up with comments on the results. I'll gladly assist you further at that time. Char1ieJ
The N80 has a vertical travel focal plane shutter. This is essentially two curtains that travel across the film plane. At lower shutter speeds, one curtain opens up the shurter, you wait, then the next one travels across, stopping the exposure. At faster speeds, though, they both move together, leaving a small gap between them to let light through.
If the first shutter curtain isn't always making it all the way to the top, this could give you just what you're seeing -- a black band across the top of the photo. One blank negative may well indicate that your shutter failed completely on that shot.
This is something best handled by a camera repair shop. It could possibly just be some dirt in the shutter mechanism, which would be fixed by a good CLA (clean, lube, adjust) ... that's no a bad idea if it's an older camera anyway. However, it could be more than that. It won't be clear which without getting down into the camera itself.
"Clear" = no exposure, right? Two possibilities: light not getting in; or film not advancing. To check the former, take a "picture" with the camera open at the back. See the light through the lens? Yes = OK, No = there is a problem with the shutter. Most likely the film is not advancing. Here's a test. Load the camera with a roll of film and take one picture. Open the camera and see if film moved. If not, go read the manual to make sure you are loading it properly.