I need a raplacement motor blower for this model # 4C754 115 volt

Which system ?
HVAC Systems - Manual HVAC Systems - Automatic
If automatic it's probably the blower motor control processor .
Blower Motor Control Processor The blower motor control processor is an interface between the HVAC control module and the blower motor. The blower motor speed control, Blower motor speed signal, battery positive voltage and ground circuits enable the control processor to operate. The HVAC control module sends the commanded blower motor speed to the control processor through a 0 to 12-volt linear ramped blower motor speed control circuit. As the blower motor speed control voltage increases, the blower motor speed increases. The control processor sends the actual blower speed to the control module through a 0 to 12-volt blower motor speed signal circuit. The processor supplies 12volts to the blower motor through the blower motor voltage supply circuit. The control processor uses the blower motor ground as a low side control to adjust the blower motor speed.

Check and or replace blower motor resistor.

You will need to do some checks .. First remove glove box. Then you can gain access to the blower motor. You will need a voltmeter or test lamp. Disconnect the plug to the blower motor. With the blower control turned to on check for voltage 12 volts, on one wire. The other should be less than a volt which is your ground. If so the motor is bad. If not then it will require more time and testing. If you want to try the "tap" method try tapping the blower motor with the wires still hooked up if it starts then blower motor is bad

You may have a defective control board or blower motor. You will need to find on the main control board the location where the blower motor (marked heat) is connected. Using a volt meter, after resetting the limits and restarting unit, you will need to check and see if the board is supplying 1115 volts to blower motor (between the blower heat terminal and one of the neutral terminals on board). Also have someone hold in the door safety switch, or put a piece of tape on the switch, The switch will pop out when the bottom furnace door is removed, this is the normal location of control board. As the furnace goes through its normal cycle and prior to locking out on safety (limit opening) you should get 115 volts from the board (terminal marked blower / heat). If the board does not put out 115 volts, then the board is defective. If the board puts out 115 volts and the blower does not operate, the blower motor is probably defective, there is one more check to do. Close the door and put your system in cooling, see if the motor starts, if it does, then the low speed (reactor) is defective and motor needs replacing. If the motor does not start in cooling mode, you may have a defective capacitor. Check all of the above first and see what happens. Good luck, and be careful.

WELL YOU HAVE TO USE A VOLT METER CONNECT ONE VOLT METER WIRES TO GOOD GROUND AND THE OTHER VOLT METER WIRES GOES TO EACH SWITCH SPEED.IF VOLT METER GET VOLTAGE A 1 OR 2 CONTROL SPEED RESISTOR BAD.IF RESISTOR BAD YOU WILL GET 1 OR 2 BLOWER MOTOR SPEEDS.IF BLOWER MOTOR WORKING.CHECK THE AC AND HEATER CONTROL SWITCH FUSE OR CHECK BLOWER MOTOR FUSE AND RELAY.IF ALL GOOD SO FAR CONTROL SWITCH ITSELF COULD BE FAULTY.

Disconnect the wire leads from the blower motor and check for 12 volts. If there is 12 volts, then the blower motor electric brushes are worn and the unit will need to be replace. If there is no Voltage, then your have a switch or relay issue that needs to be addressed.
Good luck and thank you for using Fixya

very common, ive done many. replace the blower motor resistor module, located next to blower motor and also plugs into blower, follow the wire from blower to resistor, heres apicture to help, napa auto parts sells this part,its about $50.00.hope this is helpful.

The fan switch on this unit is a bi-metal switch located on the heat exchanger. Check for a bad connection. It is 120 volts so be careful when checking. you can test the switch with an volt meter or one of those probe lights to see if the switch closes when hot. you are looking for 120 volts to the blower motor. Spin the blower motor to see if that is bound up with debris.

A volt meter or test light will be needed. Also a 12 volt battery supply ( you can use an automobile battery or your automobile)

*Please Note: before testing, make sure all wires and connections are tight and not corroded, loose, or burnt. Many electrical problems are just loose, broken, or burnt wire connections.

Test the chute rotator motor: you will need to disconnect the motor from the wiring harness.
1) connect a wire to the 12 volt supply and one of the motor leads
connect the other wire to the remaining lead
*note: positive or negative does not matter, because the chute motor will rotate either direction, and by reversing leads, the motor direction will reverse.

2) If the motor is good, now check for voltage from the snowblower engine.
Locate the supply wire to the rotator switch, with the engine running, check the voltage reading on that supply wire.

3) If the supply is good, then the switch is bad

if it doesn't run at all then the problem is likely the motor, if it has only high speed then the resistor is defective, but I have seen the resistor cause an inop blower at any speed on this car, so test the blower 1st by jumping 12 volts to the motor connector on the underside of the passenger dash.