Question about Maytag SDE4606A Electric Dryer

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Green wire with yellow strip and blue wire inside bottom

I took the dryer door off and remove all wires. I can not fine were these two wires go. They are a green with yellow strip and a blue together on bottom inside after taking dryer door off.

Thanks

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6 Suggested Answers

docjohn174
  • 943 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag dryer MDE4000AYW change 3 prong to a 4 prong

HI thanks for your question. the red to red black to black white to white green goes to the fram of the dryer. thanks hope i was helpful. please rate my answer.

Posted on Oct 12, 2008

TheMobilian
  • 8147 Answers

SOURCE: I need a schematic for a Maytag Elec Dryer HDE606

Man I been digging around in the shop for my copy of a DE606 manual I have to no avail. hell I might have even thrown it away.
Well you have a common wire, a start wire,a run wire and 2 larger wires which carry the heater load. go with the 2 larger wires on those terminals for the cent switch. White would be common so that leaves 2 to guess at seems to me those might match number for number. Just guessing cause I ain't worked on one of these halo of heat models in years.

Posted on Jan 13, 2009

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: four prong plug to three prong plug

Kalola,
You can if you want to, but it's not generally necessary. Here's a picture of a 3 prong configuration with a ground strap...
df8caf5.jpg

That green wire with the yellow stripe is a ground and it is most definitely connected to the cabinet somewhere. So it will serve as the ground strap (in the above picture).

Here's the thing... say you were going from a 3 prong to a 4 prong. That is, the dryer was originally "designed" for a 3 prong. This means you'd have to "retrofit" it a bit. Take a look at this pic... ( I made this for someone else, so please disregard my somewhat hostile remarks, OK?)
22c744f.jpg

The ground strap has been removed and has been replaced by the ground to the frame. Yours probably does NOT have a ground strap, though... yours uses that Green/Yellow wire for frame ground.

All of that to say this. Don't lose sleep over it. Ya done good.

SG

b3b18a1.jpg



Posted on May 02, 2009

Greg20
  • 149 Answers

SOURCE: What colors on electrical cord go with what screw on dryer?

black on first screw/white on middle screw/red on third screw/green to the screw on case that says grnd.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

Illeagle
  • 525 Answers

SOURCE: switching to a 3 wire plug from a 4 wire plug for

This advice is on how to correctly install an ELECTRIC DRYER or ELECTRIC RANGE 220-240VAC power cord (US Standards).

3-Prong or 4-Prong – The Difference:

3-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.

4-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO NOT ground to equipment frame.
GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to equipment frame.

Which One to Use: According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), Article 250, installations after the year 2000, require the use of a 4-prong plug which incorporates a separate ground and neutral wire. If you currently have a home that uses the 3-prong receptacle and cord, you can continue to use it. You will have to upgrade to a 4-prong configuration, however, if you plan on relocating your current receptacle, or if the internal wires of the receptacle become damaged in any way and require repair.

Converting from 3-prong to 4-prong: Make sure you UNPLUG the appliance prior to any repairs. CAUTION: Voltages dangerous to life are still present even with the appliance turned off and still plugged in. Notably in the area of the terminal block where the power cords are installed. You will need to remove the old cord by following these steps:



  1. With the appliance UNPLUGGED, remove the access panel on the back of the unit where the power cord enters.
  2. With the cover removed, you will see a terminal block where the power cord is attached. The terminal wires will be colored with the WHITE wire in the middle, and the BLACK and RED wires on either end. NOTE: There should be a green jumper wire or metal bonding strap attached to the NEUTRAL (white) terminal wire.
  3. Remove the terminal lugs holding the old power cord wires in place. CAUTION: Use care not to drop any nuts or screws inside the appliance.
  4. Remove the bonding strap or ground wire from the Neutral terminal lug. NOTE: If disconnecting a ground wire, make sure you re-attach it to the appliance frame.
  5. Loosen the screws on the strain relief connector that holds the power cord in place and remove old power cord. NOTE: If your appliance does not have a strain relief that clamps down and hold the power cord in place, it is highly recommended that you install one. This prevents chaffing of the power cord against the appliance casing, and prevents the terminal wires from being pulled and broken loose. This could pose a potential shock hazard or cause damage to the appliance.
  6. Install new power cord by threading it through the strain relief connector and tighten down the screws.
  7. Connect the new power cord to the corresponding colors at the terminal block (Black goes to Black, Red goes to Red, White goes to White). The difference is going to be a Green (ground) wire that will connect to the appliance frame. There’s usually a green grounding screw for this. NOTE: If you disconnected a green grounding strap in Step 4., you can connect these two wires at the same point.
  8. Re-install access cover. Turn off the service breaker to the appliance PRIOR to plugging it back in. With the breaker in the off position, plug the appliance in, and THEN turn the breaker on. In the event, something was wired incorrectly, it is far better to have your hands away from the receptacle and controlled from a distance. Safety first.

These steps will work for nearly all appliances that require a 220-240VAC power cord conversion. The power cords are usually rated at 250VAC, 30 amps, and are carried by any hardware store or appliance parts retailer.

ADDITIONAL NOTES:


  1. If you desire to convert an appliance from a 4-prong to a 3-prong, make sure you reconnect the bonding strap and/or ground wire to the Neutral (white) wire at the terminal block.
  2. On some newer appliances, it is REQUIRED that you use a 4-prong plug in order for the timer or clock circuits to function properly due to the way they are configured. Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct recommendation. Even if you currently have a 3-prong receptacle, you still may be required to upgrade to a 4-prong if you encounter this situation.
  3. In many circumstances, new appliances are NOT sold with the power cord due to the various power configurations in homes. Always refer to the contents description on the shipping container the appliance comes with to see what additional items or tools may be required for installation.

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

dmftrucker
  • 1922 Answers

SOURCE: Three prong cord problem on my maytag dryer

2 blues are both phase hot wires, the white is neutral and your yellow is case safety ground,if it will make you feel more secure, take an ohm-meter/multi-meter and check the wires each separately to the case, the 2 low resistance ones are neutral and safety ground

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

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The red and the black are interchangeable, they are your hot wires, but the white must go on the white that is your neutral wire. Let me explain the green wire. That is your ground. In the past the dryer would use the neutral as its grounding means if something in the dryer ever shorted out (which is a very unsafe situation), so now they decided to separate the wires and have that green wire as the ground wire which is also why there is a 4th prong on your plug. So to hook that up you need to remove the jumper that may be going from the neutral bar to the frame. There is usually a terminal for that ground wire, but if there is not you need to attach that green wire to the frame of the dryer (metal screws usually do the trick, you can also use a screw and bolt if you can find a piece of frame inside the wiring compartment).

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