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Thor Motor Coach - Owner Resources Put in your vin and a PDF form will give you a wire diagram pluming and others you need. I use it a lot work on my RV. I had the same problem on mine, it was a safety switch
The battery is not being charged OR is no longer accepting a charge.
The inverter does not charge the battery. An inverter consists of components that first convert the battery's low (12) volt "direct current" (DC) power used to power automotive devices to a higher (120) volt "alternating current" (AC) power that is required by nearly all household appliances to operate properly.
The charging of the battery occurs when either the RV's engine is running and spins the alternator, etc. OR when connected to another charging device - whether it is permanent or portable.
With the RV engine running, there should be about 13.5 - 15 volts, DC on the battery posts or terminals. This voltage is coming fromt he RV alternator and since it is greater than the 12 volt battery, "charges" the battery. If you use a portable charger - that is part of a generator, or plugs into a power port at a camp site, etc. this will charge the battery.
When none of these things is happening, the battery voltage will slowly drop. Once it is at ~10 volts, it is "dead" and will need to be recharged.
The battery will no longer accept a charge if a "cell" inside it has "opened" or "shorted", or if the battery is at the end of its useful life. The battery state can be checked quickly by any mechanic.
Maybe I am not understanding you correctly. Most motor homes and RV come standard with a shore power recepticle. Are you wanting to add two sources of power? If so, you will need to really rework your wiring on the inside of your RV. I have a generator on my motorhome and the generator plugs into the source recepticle when I want to run on generator, or I unplug to connect shore power.
It should be a simple process. Make sure that all power is off to the panel and wear safety glasses. Now simply open the panel and take out the dead front that is protecting the inside of the panel. Remove the "hot" from the bad circuit breaker. The GFI breaker has a wire going to the neutral bar. You need to remove it. Then remove the breaker by pulling it out. To install simply reverse the above
It sounds like your carb might have some tarnish built up in it and the jets inside the carburetor are not letting enough fuel through. This is really common among generators and lawnmowers because they sit for so long unused. So what happens is, with the choke "on" you are reducing the amount of air allowed into the fuel/air mixture. As you move the choke to the "off" position, you are allowing more air into the fuel/air mixture but not enough fuel is not being allowed in the mixture so it runs too lean and stalls out. Also, don't use tools to clean the carb jets, they are usually made out of brass and a tool can scar the inside of them and create resistance for the fuel flow. Hope this helps!
Hello. I can help you. Your gas furnace only needed a small amount of electrical power to operate. The electric heater on the other hand will need a lot more power and most likely will need 220 volts as opposed to 110 volts for the gas furnace. Therefore, a new line to feed your electric heater, sized appropriately will have to be run from the electrical panel to the electric heater. I recommend that you have a pro do this wiring job for you as there is no room for error. Good luck with it.
Please clarify if it's a boat, RV or a home breaker Do you have a manufactures name? Just looking at the data you gave It's a 24 volt 10.3 amp breaker that is used on anything other than a home appliance I don't know if it's 24 volts AC ,24 volts DC or a universal 24 volt breaker