Humidifier worked fine last season, would not come on this year.No power coming out of transformer. Probably blown? What might cause this? Where to get replcement? Transformer no.s:
Pri: 120V,50/60Hz Blk-Wht
Sec: 24VAC,10VA, terminal screw
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert who has answered 20 questions.
An expert that has over 10 points.
An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.
Re: humidifier not working
Depending on the age, transformers do go bad. It will have a odor to it if it is burned out, I just checked and the doorbell transformer at home depot is sufficient to run the humidifer. Dont worry that it is 20VA instead of 10VA. The VA is just the load it can handle, the higher the number, the higher the load. The transformer at home depot is around $15 dollars. You will use the 2 outer of the 3 screw terminals for the low voltage. I hope the helps. Steve
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hello, since this humidifier has a transformer installed with it, you bring one wire from humidifier to Humidistat and then a wire from humidistat to Transformer. You will need a current sensing relay to turn the humidifier on and off with the Furnace cycle. I will attach a link for a wiring diagram for your Humidifier http://docs.electronicaircleaners.com/aprilaire_700a_installation.pdf
Hello, seems like there is no way to turn on the humidifier. There would either need to be a new transformer installed, a current sensing relay, or a sail switch to activate the humidifier when the blower motor kicks on.
Check to see if you are getting 24 volts from the transformer, if not, turn off power to the transformer and check the resistance of the secondary side, if no resistance the transformer is bad and need to be replaced. Also check to make sure all the wires are secure. If you are getting voltage at the transformer then bring power directly from transformer directly to solenoid valve and it should click open and let the water through, if it does then either the sailswitch/current sensing relay is bad or humidistat is bad.
medication was never meant to go into a humidifier. it clogs the transducer. if you can clean the vicks off the transducer plate you might squeeze another season out of it, otherwise by adding medication to the machine you just gave it an early death.
The humidifier should not turn on untill the furnace blower starts. Since the fan stays on. does the solenoid valve also stay on? If they both stay on you probably have a bad humidistat. If only the blower stays on then the circuit bourd in the humidifier is defective.
I also had the transformer problem and it was made worse but an HVAC guy who rewired the furance fan to get more air flow when he installed a new AC unit. He left the humidifier wired to the old fan windings which were now putting out 160 induced volts. The humidifier transformer, which was already undersized by Honeywell, never had a chance. Not sure how common this problem is but I later saw several references to the same problem on other websites and it's worth a quick check of the supply voltage to your humidifier.
Since I had an expensive humidifier and a whole cut in the furnace duct, I looked for a fix. My solution was to buy a $15 transformer from a BigBox that matched the voltage and was oversize on amps and mounted it externally to the humdifier (much like a furnace transformer is typically mounted). I then completely removed the piece-of-junk humidifier circuit board and wired the transformer directly to the water solenoid which it controlled and wired the fan and new transformer directly to 120V that is controlled by a current sensing relay (Aprilaire A50) on the furnace fan wires (and also controlled by a humidistat located on return air plenum).
It has worked fine for two years now, runs only when the fan is on and when the humidistat is asking for more humidity. A relatively cheap fix that would have only taken an hour if I had done it right from the start.
For those of you who haven't bought the Honeywell 360A yet - don't. For those of you like me that spent the money and cut holes in your duct - this is one solution.
Maybe Honeywell will wise up and redesign their transformer PCB to be much more robust. The rest of the unit is a pretty good design.
I WOULD CHECK TO SEE IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH V/A OUT-PUT ON TRANSFORMER. I DONT KNOW IF YOURS CAME WITH ITS OWN TRANSFORMER. IF IT DIDNT YOU SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF A 40 V/A RATING STAMPED OR PRINTED ON THE EXISTING TRANSFORMER. IF THE TRANSFORMER IS EXTREAMLY HOT ... YOU MAY NEED A 75 V/A TRANSFORMER WITH THE SAME VOLTAGES.
INCREASING THE V/A CANNOT DAMMAGE ANYTHING IT JUST GIVES YOU MORE POWER WHEN EXCESIVE CONTROLS AND WIRING ARE ADDED TO A HVAC LOW-VOLAGE (24v) CIRCUIT.
IF YOU LIKE YOU CAN CALL ME AT 727-363-7071. I AM A RETIRED HVAC&R CONTRACTOR WITH 45 YEARS EXPERIENCE.
I HATE THE NEW SENSORS THEY HAVE TO ACTIVATE THESE NEW HUMIDIFIERS. I USE TO WIRE THE HUMIDIFIER TRANSFORMER (SUPPLIED WITH HUMIDIFIER) TO THE LINE (110V) SIDE TO THE LOW SPEED ON YOUR BLOWER MOTOR. THAT WAY THE ONLY THING THAT INTERUPTS THE CICUIT IS THE HUMIDISTAT.
YOU NEVER WANT THE HUMIDIFIER TO RUN IF YOUR SYSTEM IS NOT "CALLING FOR HEAT".
NEVER TRY TO ENERGIZE THE WATER SOLENOID THROUGH YOUR HEAT WIRE(USUALLY SMALL THE WHITE WIRE) FROM THE THERMOSTAT. THIS WILL RESULT IN BURNING YOUR HEAT ANTICIPATOR OUT ON THE T-STAT.