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There is normally a 20Amp fuse that protects this unit. Check your fuse box for blown fuses. WARNING: If you remove power from the battery - then you may have to return to a seller to re-enable passwords to drive radios/cassettes etc; unless you have authentic manuals.
With a car fuse, you are only looking for continuity.
Remove the fuse from the car.
Set the tester to "continuity", if you have it.
Touch the leads to the ends of the fuse, if it buzzes, the fuse is good.
If you don't have "continuity", set the tester to ohms, the lowest setting, possibly 200.
Touch the leads to each end of the fuse and you should get close to zero, probably 0.1 to 0.5 ohms.
Two ways to check. You can take them out and test them with the ohm meter . Or leave them in circuit and test 12V to ground on each side of fuse. Notice the two small metal tabs on each fuse. Touch your tester to these. You should get a reading on both sides. If only on one (incoming) and not the outgoing then fuse is blown. Note it will only work if the fuse is on (key on acc if it is a switched fuse)
Get out the tester and try one with the other end of the tester on a piece of metal in the box. If it is not grounded, it won't light up, but you can test it against the other 2 wires, Both neutral and ground will light up the tester with the hot wire, if you touch 2 wires and nothing happens, assume they are white and neutral. so the last one is hot. Only in a very modern fuse box where everything is polarized, ( and you have cloth wires so I don't think this is you), will a white wire differ from ground. They are both bolted to the same bar in the panel. Hope this helps.
Look for a lamp that is normally hidden and supposed to turn off when the cover is closed--trunk, hood, glove box, ?. If everything checks ok, you need to use a test light between the negative battery terminal and the loose negative ground cable so that any load on the system will light the tester. Start pulling fuses, one at a time, to see which circuit is drawing current. The fuse that makes the light go out is the circuit to be investigated. Keep track of where the fuses belong. Good luck!
please describe what type of device or circuitry you are having the fuse repeatedly blow so that I have a better idea of understanding your specific circumstance. A constant blown fuse normally indicates a short somewhere or an overloaded circuit somewhere. The type of tester you need is a ground fault receptacle tester you can purchase them at any hardware/electrical supply store for between $10-15 that tester when plugged in will show whether you wiring is correctly installed or not. please respond with further info and I can be of more assistance
Attach your voltmeter to the battery terminal (re-positive and black-negative for most 12v systems) Start the vehicle.
Bring the engine RPM up to around 12-to 1500. Turn the lighhts on and put them on bright. Observe the voltage reading. It should be around 13.6 to 14.6, give or take a little.
If it reads 12v or less the alternator isn't charging. This usually means a defective voltage regulator or bad alternator (assuming the drive belt is tight). If you do get the correct reading on the voltmeter indicating the alternator is charging, then it's the battery.
It sounds more like the alternator or voltage regulator from your description and that the charging light is on. You can also check the condition if you have a scan tool. An OBD II code should be set if there is an issue with the electrical system.
One more thing - some systems may have a circuit breaker, fusible link or a fuse - check that too.