a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You are using too restrictive of an air filter. If the codes you are getting off the lights says anything about a high limit this is the cause of your blower running all the time. Use a less restrictive filter or have your contractor install a media filter in the system. if you reset the furnace and it does not stop running the blower you have a stuck limit switch and may have to get another or call a service tech to reset it or replace.
Yes - but it doesn't have to work that way. There are several methods you can use to have the humidifier run only when the furnace runs. Look on the back page of the installation instructions. The method I chose was to install a sail switch. This is a switch with a arm attached which has a "sail' attached to it. When the furnace blower runs, the sail catches the blower airflow and activates the switch; allowing the humidifier to operate.
You can also wire in a current sensing relay (figure 6 on the instructions) or connect the humidifier directly into the furnace motor ignition box (if so equipped. My furnace dates to the late 70's and has no place to plug in a humidifier; which is why I installed a sail switch.)
Now however I probably would go with the current sensing relay option as this looks to be the easiest route to follow. Honeywell has their 32001754-001 avaliable for less than $35 from Sears.
The first thing to check would be the filters in the house to make sure they are clean, then check for any blockage. One easy way of seeing if the airflow is good, just put your hands in front of a vent and see how its blowing. Your furnace has what you would call sensors, and if they sense the air flow is inaccurate or to hot inside the unit, the unit will run, but not light. Also, if it tries to relight to many times, the furnace will go into lock out and you have to manually reset it by cutting the power to the furnace. Its kinda hard to diagnose these sometimes over the pc, but I hope it helps.
It is possible that you did not set the new blower on the proper speed. Black wire is high. Blue is medium. Red is low. If the fan is operating to slow it can run to hot and trip the high limit control. Make sure the filters are clean. When the old motor went bad, the problem might not have been discovered rite away your high limit control might need to be changed.
Also anytime you work on a furnace you can kick up some dust. Always clean the flame sensor.
it is best to use a seperate transformer for the hummidifier, but in some cases you can use the low voltage t-stat wire that runs your furnace, you will need to have one wire run to common, and the other to the heating side of your low voltage, normally its the red wire hooked to the w circuit of your terminal board, if you do decide to go with an extra transformer, make sure you you have it wired to bring on the humidifier only when the unit calls for heat, hope that helps