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Re: hot leg of power supply cord melted
This is almost positively caused by a poor electrical connection. If the connections at the cord to the dryer are good and tight, check the receptacle that the cord plugs into. Turn the breaker off, remove cover or receptacle, and tighten all connections. If necessary, replace the dryer receptacle along with installing a new cord.
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you have two options you can either replace the outlet on the wall to a 4 prong plug which will require turning power off and a little more description on how to change ... you have 2 hot legs usually black and red sometimes they will use black and the white and then connect the ground to the ground terminal... you would install the 4 prong outlet the same way except you would conect the ground to the center port and then ground the receptacle itself...
the easiest thing to do is go to a local hardware store and buy a three prong cord and in the rear of your dryer is a access panel to replace the cord... the 2 outer screws are your hot legs if you hold the cord flat you will see it is made where you can tell which wire is what, doesnt matter which is which as long as the 2 outer one are the two outer ones on the cord and the center wire goes to the center screw and then all you have to do is plug it in and start drying clothes.... good luck to you
Beyond checking for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker (find the dryer circuit breaker and turn it off, then back on) I would suggest having a qualified Service Technician look at your dryer. Your dryer operates on 240VAC. One leg of power (L-1, 120VAC) operates the motor and timer. The second leg (L-2, 120VAC) ends up at one side of your heating element while L-1 is on the other side. L-2 goes from your power cord to the juction block, to the motor centrifugal switch and finally to one connection of the heater. L-1 goes from your power cord to the junction block, then through the operationg thermostat and the high limit thermoastat, then possibly a thermal fuse and finally to the other connection on the heating element. L-1 and L-2 together supply 240VAC. No heat at all can be a fault with ANY of the components mentioned.
unplug the unit,then carefully open the power cord connection access panel in the rear area of the dryer,sometimes the incoming power connections of one or more will burn off and disconnect themselves from the terminals,if its this problem,it sound like the "N"neutral center connection,because if either power phase wire burns off you may still have the timer or drum operate because each is connected to one hot leg
You should have two hots (one black - one red)(110 VAC each = 220) plus a neutral (white)(which when coupled inside with one of the legs will give you 110 VAC for timer and light) and a ground (green) which should be connected to the frame of the machine. Is that what you have?
I am more concerned about the wire from your machine back to the panel. You might want to get a licensed electrician to look at this. The risk is burning your home down. Please get it checked. If the electrician says the wire is undamaged, you can fix this yourself.
Why did it dead short? Someone dropped a paper clip across the two hot wires (220) or between the hot and ground (120)?
Unplug the dryer and remove the rear panel. The element and safety's are on the right hand side. Check each component for continuity. any component that is ope will be the problem. Now here is your basic repair manual for this machine: HERE
Your problem is not in the dryer. 220V circuits can be confusing in that the 110 leg can feed back and in reality you are getting the same 110V reading on both legs. Check across the two legs and see if you get 220V if not then you have confirmed what I suspect. Your problem is probably with you circuit breaker in the electric panel. Try switching the breaker off and forcefully turning it back on, You also can take off the panel cover and check to see if you have 220V across the two poles of the circuit breaker. You may have to replace the circuit breaker, it is not uncommon for one leg of a breaker ot go out especially when used on a dryer that pulls high amp. resistance loads.
Check your receptacle to make sure that you have 220v, with 110v on each of 2 legs. The dryer operates some things off of one hot lead, and some off of the other. Your motor circuit sounds like it's on the other.
If the receptacle checks good, check your wiring connections at the terminal strip in the back of the machine wher the cord connects.
Check for a build up of lint in the exhaust duct, an excessive build up will block air flow.
Also 220VAC electric dryers use different legs of the electrical supply. (two 110VAC legs tied via a common neutral make 220 VAC) One 110VAC leg runs the motor and controls while the other supplies power to the heater.
It is possible that one side of the 220VAC has a blown fuse and is not supplying power to the heater element.
Blown out heater - requires replacement
There is a safety switch attached to the shaft of the motor. THis switch relys on centrifical force to close and is intened to kill the power to the heater if the motor and its attached blower stop turning.
If the motor is not turning fast enough of the switch is worn then it is possible that power to the heater circuit is not being completed. It doesn't take must of a speed reduction to cause a problem. Lint build up on the drum bearings can cause enough drag to slow the drum slightly. Combined with a worn/dirty switch and the switch fails to operate.
Finally there is a blower attached to the motor shaft. The blower is made of plastic and somtimes the blower comes loose on the shaft. Usually you hear a rattling sound or sounds after the dryer drum stops as the loose spinning blower spins to a stop. ( A tight blower stops with the dryer drum) A loose blower doesn't move enough air and causes your dryer to run longer.