(Quote: Did you find the two screws located under the two round rubber dics located at the back top of the cell phone?
If you remove the two round rubber discs you will find screws under
them. Once you remove those screws you will be able to remove the one
plastic frame.) Found and removed screws, still can't get case off. Seems to be a fastener close to the camera lens.
If your phone ever gets wet best thing to do is take the battery out as quick possible put the phone in a brown paper sack with rice and seal it up leave in a warm place for a day at least to get out all the moisture always works for me
Bought a SGH-C417 off ebay. The flash cards are compatible. (I'm using my wife's now.)
I never got the back off the darn thing, but it's dry. No condensation on screens. When I put the battery back in, the light behind the keys light up and the ******** goes off. This continues until I hit the power button, Phone will the go dark and be unresponsive. Call me redneck suspicious, but I suspect this is planned obsolesce. I know there is a moisture detecting strip in the phone to indicate if it has ever been wet. I just wouldn't be surprised to find a planed fail point built in also. I've use way to many electronics after a good dunking to believe that EVERY phone that ever gets moist dies.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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The case halves are held together by 5 larger screws, one under the carry handle, obvious from the holes in the casing, plus one smaller screw up by the foot-raising lever.
There is also the final screw, which is a devil to find. You have to remove the plastic tray to which the spool carrier is attached, up by the spool winder. You do not need to remover the spool winder stop but the small screw on the left, in the bottom of the tray-shape.
Next, WITH CARE , lever round the tray with a thin blade and use a small screwdriver to ease it out of the case; there are 2 bits that stick out more than the rest.
Once this tray is out you can see a small bar with a screw. Remove this screw and the 2 halves of the case will separate.
TAKE CARE NOT TO DROP THE SCREW INTO THE WORKS!. A piece of sticky-tack on the end of the screwdriver helps here if the screwdriver is not magnetized.
Now you can carefully ease the ribbon-strip cable from the circuit board and move the case round to be able to access the screws that hold the circuit board. You do not need to pull out the other cables; just take a tad of care as you work.
The bobbin winder mechanism is held in by 1 screw - take this out and you can then easily replace the rubber drive ring -(which you have providently ordered)
Take the opportunity to clear out any fluff and dust while you have the cases apart. Put ONE drop of oil in the center of the bobbin carrier rotating mechanism and one drop on any moving joints.
Replace the components/ ribbon cable in the reverse order, taking care not to drop the small screw! It is necessary to carefully line-up the hole into which it fits. It is surprising how easily the tray clips back into place, compared with the hassle you had getting it out.
I took both my CS 8080s apart last week to replace the drive rubbers. The first took nearly 1.5 hours, the next 1 hour as I knew what I was about.
There are 4 screws on the bottom, 2 are under a rubber pad that can just as well be discarded. Be careful opening the 2 halves of the case, since the assembly is spring loaded. Note carefully the position of the wire bail as you open. Your control is failing because the two resistive strips are dirty. Blow all the lint out the the case, and swab the two resistor strips with alcohol. Move the wiper arm so you can reach both ends of the strips. To re-assemble, lay the bottom half on the table and place the plunger and wire bail in position. Then set the large ends of the springs over the round plastic projections in the plunger. Take the top half of the case (with all electrical parts) and engage the bottom end (away from the springs). Before pushing the top half closed, be sure that the small ends of the two springs fit around two screw heads.
The Saniplus works on a pressure chamber ((float switch) i suggest that you remove all the piping attached the unit, remove the pump completely out the back of the toilet, pry open the lid using a flat head screwdriver, remove 2 or 3 screws from front and back of pump casing. Then the motor with pressure chamber can be lifted out the top of the casing as 1 piece. The pressure chamber is a white casing attached to the motor and where the power cord comes out the top. At the bottom of the pressure chamber you will find a black rubber membrane, it might be warped or solids could be build up at the bottom not allowing it to shut off. If you need to order parts you will have to call Saniflos hotline.
If you don't see any screw holes, look around for some rubber feet, chances are the rubber feet are hiding some screws. If you remove those carefully enough, you can easily put them back in. Once all the the screws are removed carefully pry open the case and remove/replace the hard drive inside.
You need to open the casing. With a small flat-head screw driver slide it down the crack between top and bottom casings on both long sides with care and you will be able to open up the remote. Remove the top and you will find all the rubber buttons in one piece. Remove the rubber buttons and clean the underside of this rubber pad with alcohol. Also wipe the underlying circuit board with a small amount of alcohol to remove any grease. You need to take care when re-applying the round menu ring as it only sits properly in one orientation. Then you can put it all back together by snapping the top back on and you are good to go.
We just had the same problem. We took off the three screw on the back to remove the top panel on washer. From there we took the screws off the electric face plate on the front. Be careful, there is a screw located inside the door. You must open the door to get to the screw. Next we removed the bottom panel door and then the four screws to the mail metal panel on the front. Hold that panel because the rubber gasket is still connected. Then you will see a rubber hose directly under the drawer. Take the rubber hose off at the bottom nearest the drum. We found a sock that had wedged itself up and was causing a back up. After I cleared it, the washer works just fine.
Did you find the two screws located under the two round rubber dics located at the back top of the cell phone? If you remove the two round rubber discs you will find screws under them. Once you remove those screws you will be able to remove the one plastic frame. Be careful, there are two places that you will need to disconnect in order to completely remove the insides from the frame. If they are not disconnected you will not be able to remove the main brain of the phone. The 1st one is easy to see but the 2nd one is not as easy. You must be careful anytime your working with these components.
To remedy this, I did the following:
1) Removed screws from: a) Lower area of handle (1 screw), b) Top of steamer, under round rubber flap around fill hole (2 screws), c) Front of steamer where nozzles attach (2 screws)
2) Removed back of handle, top of steamer, front of steamer where nozzles attach
3) Once all parts are removed, you can see a brass button that is pushed by the trigger
4) Using a needle-nose pliers, grasp and rotate the button several times in both directions (you may hear it cranking against the interior spring). Do this until it turns fairly easily with the pliers.
5) Once this is done, you fill find that the brass button can be very slightly depressed with a bit of force. You may also need/want to unfold a large paper clip to push into the nozzle hole to help unsticking the brass button (not sure if that helped in my case, but it was something I tried along the way). When the brass button moves in and out (again, it won't move much), the steam release mechanism is unstuck!
6) Reassemble all parts (everything snaps back neatly into place).
This worked for my unit!
I used a micro screw driver set that can be purchased at Home Depot. There are two hidden screws: one on the top piece where the display is and one on the bottom piece where the keyboard is. The hidden screw on the top piece is under a silver rubber circle at center bottom of piece. The hidden screw on the bottom piece is under a silver rubber water drop shape located by the antena. These rubber covers can be removed by wedging them out with a mirco flat screw driver or pin.
Solved it. If you need to take it all the way apart, here's the scoop:
Get the top cover off by popping it up at the hinge side (this is what pops when you drop it)... then at the charging end, slide the top towards the hinge to slip the clips out from under something.
the folding mic tells the board it is open by a small z-shaped piece of plastic. The skinny end of this fits into a tiny hole in the bottom of the case and the fat side slides up and down in a little round space over on the side of the case. There is a rubber button with a dark piece that sits on top of the round space. The dark side of the rubber piece presses against a round circle on the circuit board and tells it whether the mic is open or closed. Once you put it all together, you have to press the board down pretty firmly to tell if it is all working.
Then put the volume buttons back in place and slide the top back on.