Actually that model has an integrated inverter with the power supply. Should be part # xlm1700390004 they cost around 25 bux and are fairly easy to replace.
If you are handy with soldering you could check the three 470 uf caps on the board they are tank caps and when they go they do what you are describing. Open the monitor and look at the three black capacitors if the top is bulged they are bad. If you have a capacitance meter check the capacitance it will most likly be well below 470 uf the caps are cheap like 39 cents if you do go this route use 30v not 25v caps to be on the safe side.
Word of warning switching power supplies can kill you quickly never work on it live and let it discharge at least an hour before working on it.
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Look at the board where the AC power connector comes in that is the power supply board, there are more than one versions so it nay not have the same caps value. Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed Viewsonic/Optiquest monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague http://www.badcaps.net
LCD monitor needs to be fed with native resolution from the PC video out, this monitor native resolution is 1280x1024 @60Hz, try that setting to see if it helps before opening up the monitor to look for failed components.
sgcb1971, There are lots of pics on web for you to view and then you will know what to look for. Electrolytic filter capacitors are not to hard to spot on a "switch-mode-power-supply"/"ccfl inverter supply" combo board. Why don't you visit YOUTUBE for some video clips of "lcd monitor disassembly" and "lcd monitor repair" . Also try www.ccl-la.com/badcaps.htm for more clues as to just what to look for. Ya know , you need a soldering iron to replace them if they are bad!!! It's not like changing batteries in a flashlight 12fixlouie
probably failure in the LCD controller IC in the lcd controller board. that no signal was sent out to the lcd driver IC thus you could only see white display. A replacement of LCD panel is the best solution. I suggest to bring the unit to an authorized service center to properly diagnose & fix the problem. regards
I had the exact same problem. The screen went black and the green light flashed. I went ahead and took the monitor apart (scary) and took a look at the power supply circuitry. I saw 6 suspicious electrolytic caps on the board. Three 470uF 25V 105 degree C caps, two 1000uF 10V 105 degree C caps, and one 470uF 10V 105 degree cap. They all appeared to be slightly bulging and one even had a small hole in the top. I decided to replace all of them. The parts cost a little more than 5 bucks. I couldn't find a 470uF 10V cap at my local store so I bought a 16 V version instead, which is fine. Anyway, after replacing all 6 caps, the monitor works as good as new.
You can check the date of manufacture on the back of the monitor. If the monitor is over a year old there is no warranty repair. It's possible to get it repaired locally you'll just need to find a repair shop.
Don't know if this will fix your problem, but my monitor did the same thing. If you look on the bottom of the power supply board, you will find Q305 and Q306. They are probably both shorted. I replaced both transistors and the capacitor C305 on the top of the same board. The capacitor was open. After I replaced the parts it is working again. Look with a magnifying glass and make sure there are no bad solder joints. The only place I could find the transistors were at www.bluestar-online.com. Make sure you order the 2SC5706. It is an exact replacement.