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No problem with mine. I charge them once the level gets low and never run out of battery.
I am using NiMH batteries as they can be recharged at any point. NiCad batteries lose power very quickly if charging when still holding a charge.
Although you could use these, do not use alkaline batteries unless it is absolutely necessary. In some cases, alkaline batteries may have a shorter service life than NiMH. Alkaline battery performance is limited, especially at low temperatures. The use of NiMH batteries is recommended.
Never use manganese (Zinc-Carbon) batteries in electronic devices.
These batteries are only to be used in flash lights. The lower capacities suggest NiCd batterie. Also don't use these.
A set of new NiMH batteries, from 2000 to 2600 mAh with a good charger, will be fine.
There are very fast chargers around. Don't invest in them. I payed 80 euro for a quick charger. Could charge 2700 mAh batteries in 15 minutes. The charger killed all my NiMH batteries I had (more than 40) It took me till the fifth or so died, before I realised it could be the charger. Since I stopped all my batteries one by one died and I had to replace them all
I now have some "fast" chargers that take 2 to 3 hours and the new batteries Can handle that.
Better buy a slower charger and some good batteries, than the other way around.
Second. Test the 2600 mAh batteries, if they fit.
To put more capacity in the "same" AA battery some brands made them slightly thicker. So it could be you can't get the largest ones in your camera.
Did you charge the new battery before fitting, this is most important.
Is the battery a top up/ gel or MF type. Top up and MF need acid to work, was battery filled with acid? If you do get the bike running check the charging rate of the alternator by connecting a multi meter to the battery terminals. A 12 volt battery should show 12.5 to 13.2 volts off the bike and around 14 volts on the bike with the engine running at 5 K revs. (half throttle).
Have you seen inside a laptop battery, it's not just a battery. It also has control circuitry inside, could be that. Not usually repairble but you can do some makes of battery. See here:Circuit. Personally I would buy a new battery.
All batteries have a certain lifetime to them. After so many charges the battery will eventually stop holding a charge. When this time comes, there is nothing to do except check the warranty on the battery and get it replaced or buy a new battery.
Does this problem only happen on when playing drums? For me, when my battery is running low, if I move my head back and forth quickly or lightly tap the right headphone, they will clip in and out briefly, but replacing the battery always fixes this. My guess is that you are playing drums a lot, your battery is running low, and you might be throwing your head around violently, causing a similar problem.
Problem is not the batteries then. Replace the controller. The controller could be resisting some of the charging current to the battery.
But first try this:
Charger the scooter with it OFF
Directly connect the charger to the battery
If still the same problem then:
Directly connect the charger to the battery then, connect the motor leads directly to the battery and see how long it runs. It with new the batteries it should run longer than a minute. If it does than something is definitively wrong with the controller.
Both previous posts are correct. The battery is located under the rider seat. You need to charge it at a low amperage, 1.5 or 2 amps. It will take a while so be patient. Quick charging is bad on the battery. The best bet is to buy a trickle charger such as a Battery Tender and plug it in often. It will keep your battery at its peak. The more your battery drais or receives quick charges, the faster you will have to buy a new battery.