Question about Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

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Dryer not heating

I have pulled the dryer back off and have located the thermostat, thermal fuse and thermal cut-off. How do i test the thermal fuse. I have a voltage meter

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You check it for ohms. remove the back panel and look for http://midwestapplianceparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4416&cPath=89&m1track=googlebase&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=export_feed


also some times they give false readings so i jumop the 2 wieres to be sure

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My maytag electric dryer wont heat up


It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.

If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.

A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.

Apr 28, 2010 | Maytag Atlantis MDG6400AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Will not heat


If the model number you posted this question under is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access them by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php


The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6) - This is a replacement kit. Includes Item 15 when ordering.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If your dryer is NOT configured this way, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know.

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out.

2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing.

4. Blown heating element.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 23, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool dryer not heating up


If the model number you posted this question under is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php


The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6) - This is a replacement kit. Includes Item 15 when ordering.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If your dryer is NOT configured this way, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know.

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out.

2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing.

4. Blown heating element.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 22, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My kenmore series 500 dryer does not heat up


The closest model number reference I could find for what you have provided is "110.69522800". If this model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fK0809032-00003.png


The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 14)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 1)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 34)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 40)
Thermal Fuse (Item 9)

If the dryer is running, but not heating, this is not always an indication of a blown heating element. If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of a dryer that will not heat are:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out (replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO if found to be bad).

2. Bad Heating Element.

3. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

4. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. Please post back with your correct MODEL NUMBER if the number I have provided is incorrect. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 19, 2010 | Kenmore 500 6952 Dryer

1 Answer

Element not heating


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance: http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php
The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If the dryer is running, but not heating, this is not always an indication of a blown heating element. If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of a dryer that will not heat are:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out (replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO if found to be bad). 2. Bad Heating Element.

3. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

4. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 19, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat


The thermal fuse is located on the blower housing while the thermal cut-off is located on the heater housing. If the dryer is electric, runs but doesn't heat, the thermal fuse is not the problem; otherwise the dryer will not run because the thermal fuse is wired in series with the motor and cuts power to the motor when it fails. The problem could the heating element, high-limit thermostat, thermal cut-off, or cycling thermostat. These components can be found in the blower housing and the heater housing depending on the model of the dryer. Specify the model number of the dryer for a more specific advice.

Apr 12, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer stopped now won't start


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 24)
Thermal Fuse (Item 23)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of a drer that will not turn on is:

1. Blown Thermal Fuse

2. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

3. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 02, 2010 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer drum will turn but not heat up any suggestions? purchased a ohm meter and removed the back panel not sure how to test for continuity(power has been disconnected!) Fairly new dryer please help


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems: 1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out 2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers. 3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing. 4. Blown heating element. Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Mar 30, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer does not heat. Fuse, thermostats, heat element all have continuity, power chord is good, 240v at plugin... stumped. It is a model # LER4634BQ1 Whirlpool SN# ME4471484


dryer_heating-element.jpg Heating Element

It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.
dryer_thermal-fuse.jpg Thermal Fuse

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
dryer_thermostat.jpg Thermostat

If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.
dryer_timer.jpg Timer motor

A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.







Feb 06, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Whirlpool dryer will not heat


Hello there:
There are 5 things that would not make the dryer heat up i will post you them here ok
dryer_heating-element.jpg Heating Element

It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.
dryer_thermal-fuse.jpg Thermal Fuse

Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
dryer_thermostat.jpg Thermostat

If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.
dryer_timer.jpg Timer motor

A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.

Jan 17, 2010 | Dryers

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