Heater will run for about 5 min. Than flame goes out , and smokes
Clean kero / Clean nozzle when I took it appart, Clean tubig filter,When you take the cover off and run it ,the flame come out the front as long as you have the cover off 1 min or 30 . Putt the cuver back on and 5 to 10 min later , it's puffing smoke (unburnt fuel )
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You need to make sure the filters are clean and that you are getting the proper air pump pressure.
the units starts up and runs good and slowly goes out it will normally
be due to a lack of fuel getting to the nozzle. When there is not enough
fuel being delivered to the nozzle from either a clogged fuel filter of
dirty air pump output filter the unit will slowly shut down from lack
If the unit shuts down while it is running properly and
the nose come is orange then you probably have a problem with a
photocell or the flame out control.
If you have other questions you can contact our service department at 269-685-4125 at extension 224
I am not to sure of the trouble codes on Mr.Heater but this is usually a fuel related problem. My routine maintenance is remove top half of heater and clean fuel system from nozzle back to the tank.Remove nozzle,clean the screen behind the nozzle they corrode over the summer sometimes inspect the nozzle for corrosion or damage. Inspect lines back to pump then to filter. The filter can be cleaned out with compressed air and a blow gun blowing air thru the filter backwards. Now check the fuel line to the tank and make sure it is submerged in the fuel. Before putting the top on locate the fire sensor and give it a quick cleaning with windex and soft terry cloth rag. Put your heater back together and check air filter to pump clean it and fire away. This works 90 percent of the time. Good luck!
Well this can be several things first things first, there is a flame sensor or fire-eye this tells the heater that a flame is present. These need cleaned out from time to time, windex and terry cloth work well for this. Second I would check my fuel system, most heaters have some sort of filter check to make sure it is clear,then up the fuel line is the nozzle assembly this could be obstructed. remove the nozzle there should be a screen of sorts in the assembly clean it out. Nozzles are tricky and they say that you should not clean them but replace them. Pay attention here to spray angle and the GPH rating when purchasing a new nozzle. ( I have been lucky cleaning them out with carb cleaner and a tooth pick) Not a practice the manufacturer wants to know about but it has worked for me. Good luck and please do your repairs in a well ventilated area.
Check the fuel system for plugged fuel filter, these will have an in line filter and they often get plugged up. Check your fuel lines for holes,kinks or pinching. These will rust in the tank from storing all summer condensation builds water forms then rust. Clean fuel system out good to include the screen in behind the nozzle assembly. While you have the cover off clean out the photoelectric eye and igniter. If the fuel is old change it out as well.
sounds like the ignitor is bad, mine would try to light and do the same thing. I noticed one night that it was arcing out the entire length of the wires to the plug. If you have a good spark then i would suggest a CAD flame sensor, very cheap.
The most likely cause is your thermocouple. Make sure it is in the flame when it is lit. Make sure it is clean. (if not a little piece of fine steel wool will clean it). If that does not do it change your thermocouple.
is this kerosene or propane. if kerosene, two types of ignition is used. a spark plug or a hot surface ignitor. the kero unit uses a cad cell flame detector, the propane unit uses a millivolt generator. the kero unit uses an air pump that comes off the backside of the fan motor - this airline goes to the nozzle and acts like a siphon for fuel. there is no air pump for the propane heater. the fan just accelerates airflow through the combustion chamber. the cad cell of the kero unit sees the flame and varies its resistance. it is sensitive to the infrared generated by the flame and feeds this signal to the lockout relay. no flame after a few seconds, opens and locks out the unit. the propane unit uses a millivolt generator. it is a copper cappillary tube that has two spade connectors on it. the spade connectors are connected to a high limit mounted on the backside of the combustion chamber. under normal conditions the hi limit is closed and completes the electrical circuit to the main valve. the millivolt generator is electrically connected to the pilot/main valve electromagnet inside. with a flame detect signal the electromagnet is energized and holds the main valve slug open allowing the propane to feed to its nozzle in the chamber. as long as there is a flame the valve stays open. no flame, no signal and the unit releases the valve pellet and closes. you can test the hi limit by jumping out the two spade connectors and see if the unit starts and stays running.