Question about Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer
Can you help me??
Depending on the type of door the dryer has, is how you approach the
access of these dryers. Mostly though you yank out the filter
first.Remove the 2 screws in the filter housing on top.Then use a putty
knife to pop the top. Remove the screws holding the front panel on.
VERY IMPORTANT! Raise the front up an inch before pulling forward or
the panel clips will break! Some models have a panel on bottom. If they
do then this panel must come off first. Then you remove the door
springs and back off the screws holding down the bottom of the door
panel. Then pop the top and remove the screws on top to get the panel
out of your way. Get the drum out and clean out the dryer. Oil the wheels and idler. Replace the belt using this diagram . NOTE yours is lower right:
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
nestor, on the posted model, you want to drop the lower front panel. Take a puddy knife and push in on the clips on each side and it will pull off. Kill the power to the dryer. On the right you will see the heater housing. The housing will have a front deflector. You can remove that deflector by removing the screw on the bottom or simply just bend it down out of the way. Remove the 2 wires on the left that attach to the element itself. On the left side of the housing there will be a quarter inch screw that holds the element in place. Use a small socket set to get it off. Now the element will pull right out of the housing. Sometimes they are difficult to pull out but it will come out. Did you ohm out that element to make sure that was the culprit? Catriver.
Posted on Dec 09, 2007
SOURCE: replace dryer belt
Pull the front panel off, remove the top screws and tilt top back. Rout the new belt around drum at the old wear spot with the grooved side against the drum. Next remove the back access door and rout the belt around the idler pulley and motor pulley. There is only one way to do this and get proper tension on the belt.
Also, when you order the belt, ask if it has a belt routing diagram on the belt package.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
SOURCE: How to get into the cabinet?
Kenmore dryer belt
(worn bearing surfaces are the most common cause of belt breakage, and you dont want to do it again next month)
Posted on May 04, 2009
Check the house electrical panel for tripped dryer-circuit breaker-pair. Push off, then on. If immediately re-trips, the dryer has a dead short circuit in it. If they hold, then retry the dryer. If it now works, ok! If not, recheck the breakers as above. If tripped again, there is a likely short in the dryer's heater assembly. The drum must be removed to access the heater.
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
Before assuming you may have a component failure, do a little routine inspection of the dryer and exhaust vent ducting.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be because the exhaust ventilation ducting is clogged. If you can't remember the last time the exhaust vent was cleaned, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to dryer performance problems. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat, causing poor drying results and eventual failure. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.
There is no lint screen that catches ALL the dryer lint. Some lint will always get exhausted with the moisture from your clothing. If the exhaust vent is kinked or has excessive bends that create choke points, lint will accumulate in these points. Once the lint starts to accumulate, the moisture from your clothes starts to collect in it, and more lint get trapped. This eventually creates a clog. The Rule of Thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the exhaust ventilation ducting, the BETTER.
A simple test to determine if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees). If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry as they should, then you need to inspect the ducting thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.
If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.
If your exhaust vent runs to an attic, this is a poor design that gravity will always win because of the resistance the blower fan meets trying to push the exhaust up the wall. The lint will eventually collect in the ducting going up the wall and have to cleaned out from time to time.
Also, make sure you don't crush the dryer hose behind the dryer when you push it up against the wall. You should always leave plenty of space behind a dryer to prevent this from happening.
Rodents and birds are anotehr cause of dryer problems. If they have access to the outside exhaust vents, birds will build nests in them and mice love a warm place with plenty of bedding material (lint makes a nice nest). Make sure the exhaust vent is at least a foot from the ground and use a louver type cover to keep pests outside. Do not use a screen. It can resist air flow and clog.
In addition, you should be using semi-rigid metal type ducting that resists kinking, crushing and rodent infestation.
If the air flow is weak, then you need to inspect the dryer INTERIOR to see if the air blower is working properly and is not clogged. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. Failue to do so can lead to component failures and is a potential fire hazard.
If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Sep 18, 2009
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