I also got Error Code 37 at the end of a wash with the machine full of suds. I used the other information listed under this problem to establish that the pump was blocked, (no amount of hand-turning loosened the fan). After unplugging the machine from the wall, I removed the pump easily by unplugging the power and earth from the pump, pressed in a clip on the side of the pump to allow the whole pump to rotate and then pull out, (a bayonet type fitting). From where the pump came out from was a small piece of cloth and other gunk! I refitted the pump and reconnected the power and earth. The machine is now working happily again.
I had a washer that was displaying the code 37. IT would not empty out. It would drain a tiny bit then stop and so on.
I removed the 2 screws holding the lid down and began to remove the water by taking a mop and wringing out . I then put my hand down the agitator and loosend the scews and removed it. I also took pictures with my digital camera so that I could remember the sequence. I then unscrewed three scews. I was then able to remove the tank (where the clothes goes) It lifted straight up and out. I used a towel to remove the rest of the water. At the bottom of the washer is a clear plastic piece that can be removed by unsrewing the lone screw. I then noticed that a penny and nickel was blocking the two small holes that allow water to pass through to the pump. I then reattached the lid and layed the machine down so that I could get to the pump which is located on the bottom of the unit. The pump is held by four screws. I located some grime but not enough for the unit to not work. I then cleaned each piece and put the machine back together.
I also had the error code 37 and a burning smell and the machine would not go into drain or spin. My husband followed the above instructions and discovered a piece of plastic from a shirt collar had prevented the pump rotor from turning. We took the opportunity to clean any visible junk from inside the plastic drum before reassembling the machine. Just one warning, my husband cut his hand quite badly on the outside of the metal barrel when we were lifting it from the machine (wear leather gloves). The inside perforations on the barrel are sharp.
Thank You So Much For This Advice My Washing Machine Decided To Die On Me This Arvo And After Following Exactly Your Instructions I Fixed It Myself! So Glad To As I Am A Solo Mother & Just Dont Have The Money For These Kind Of Repairs Thank You Thank You Thank You! :)
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Had the same problem with burning smell, turned out to be the seal on the pump shaft had failed (due to hard water?) or age (8y) and allowed water to dribble down to windings. Windings were a 1/3 blackened. Simple fix, buy a new pump and it came with new impleller fitted. Loosen metal mounting plate lock in new pump with side clip (may have to hold clip out of the way with finger) tighten plate to secure pump body will need small spanner to get to one difficult bolt. Connect power and earth.
You lot rock and so do I !!!!! I just fixed my washing machine, wooohooooo! Googled my problem, found someone else who had the same one, and simply took all your suggestions on board, thank you very much. Asked my daughter to help me empty, flip machine over, spin the fan (which wasn't moving quite freely), rotated the big tub thingie a bit, flipped it almost back up, plugged it in and hit the spin cycle. It freaking worked! And... got to clean underneath it, ahem. Not bad for a chick hey :)
Code 37 - thanks for the solution but found that you don't even need to undo the 4 screws. Just pull forward a white locking clip and twist the pump anti-clockwise till it drops out. If it won't budge, then you may need to loosen the 4 screws. Also two electrical connections that may need to be unplugged. Black drain hose may also need to be pulled off to check for blockages. I found a small metal disc in the entrance to the drain hose. Once removed the pumped easily clipped back in, reattach electrical connectors and hose - machine now working as per normal.
Thanks. same problem and by blowing through the different outlet pipes, cleaning the dust off the little fan underneath, rotating the big plastic fan thingo, taking off the earth and power splade thingos and blowing in them and pushing the wires in a bit harder and replacing them, and putting the pump back on. It all now works! my only problem is that there was nothing exotic or anything studk on the pump rotor. I was going to say that there was a family of mice that had made a nest but that would be silly.
thanks, just saved me over 2 grand because while i was fixing it, the wife was out picking a meile replacement.
Just one thing, the pump was quite firmly secured and after pulling back with one finger the plastic lever type clip to allow the pump unit to be unscrewed counter clockwise, i had to use a bit of force to get it moving . but then it was fine.
don't forget to disconnect the power. water and elec don't mix!
I also had a Code 37 appear on my 8kg Intuitive Eco washer. The technician arrived, unscrewed the cover panel and pulled out the brown wire in the middle back section, which controls the inverter. He said if I set the machine to Traditional Wash, the machine would operate normally without any need to change the motherboard or pump, and it would run a faster cycle, as it doesn't need to recycle the water during washes and rinses. Aug 2013
Big thanks for posting this. Worked for me.
As I was saying... Worked for me. To be more specific. Simply unplug the connector which is 2nd from left on the motor controller. This connector has 2 light brown wires and is 3 pins wide but the middle pin has no wire on it. It controls power to the solenoid of the diverter valve. The diverter valve recirculates drain water back up into the bowl during ECO mode. Since the diverter is now disabled/unplugged, you must set the wash mode to traditional not eco. I was getting intermittent code 37, but the pump was fine. The divertor valve was recirculating water when it should have been draining. The solenoid on the divertor was very hot to touch. I put in a new diverter ($50) and no change, so I figure I hve to spend $150 on a new motor controller, but instead found this post, disconnected the power to the divertor valve, set wash to tradional and machine is working fine now. HTH -Stew
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My wife started finding scum on some items when she removed them after a wash. I initially thought it may have been the remnants of a large insect that had got caught up in one of the garments, as this didn\'t happen on the next few washes. Then she noticed that it wasn\'t spinning out fully and eventually fault code 37 presented. After reading the advice above I went to remove the pump as suggested and found the fan was free and easy to turn, but the motor was almost too hot to twist and remove. I took the plastic cover off the motor wiring and saw that there is a thermo switch up against the windings. To be sure, I removed all the hoses and couldn\'t see any obstructions (she\'s very particular, so I wasn\'t expecting anything!) so my guess was that the motor is on the way out and overheating. This is causing the thermo protection to stop the the pump. I reassembled everything and ran it through a cycle and found that it doesn\'t take a lot of pumping for the motor to heat up (which I could check by tilting the machine and placing my hand up inside - after disconnecting the power of course) and cut out. It then sits a while, cools some and then starts again.
Just to confirm my theory, I ran it again through a couple of stop/starts, then got my wife to hold the machine tilted forwards (it was still partly full of water) whilst I lay on my back, pulled the connector off the motor and probed the terminals with my multimeter. No circuit as I expected, and the laminations were too hot to hold.
I\'ll be off to buy a new pump on Monday!
Hope this helps.
Have few drinks
We began having this issue as well. Almost on every wash it would stop on the rinse cycle. Since it was draining somewhat well I figured there was not any blockage and the pump was working for the most part. After limited research I accused my wife of using too much detergent as I read that this could cause this. Even after cutting down we still had this issue. I went ahead and emptied out any remaining water and check the pump and the hoses. Sure enough there was some buildup which I removed. Put it back together and it is working great now.
From above posts determined it was pump problem. Turn off power!! and water supply. Removed agitator by reaching down tube and undoing wingnut. Wasn't necessary to remove lid. Bailed out water. Tipped machine up and removed pump. Lift locking catch and rotate pump body. If you remove wires, note how they go back. Nothing obvious so I blew down outlet hose and dislodged something. Replace pump. Rotate until catch locks. Replace power and earth wires.
Removing the pump (which has been described above & is very easy to do) worked for me. Our problem turned about to be an ankle stocking (I guess that is what they are called?) that was blocking the pump inlet. It will have been my fault as my wife puts all 'delicates' in a fabric zippered bag which is then put in the machine - this prevents small items from heading off on their big OE around the machine.... I that this solution works for you too!
If you press the spin function and it goes to move but jams disconnect power empty contents tilt machine turn what looks like a plastic wheel backwards & forwards til you free it up & spins easily, plug machine in and press the spin function & it should work.
I was getting intermittent code 37, but the pump was fine.
The divertor valve was recirculating water when it should have been draining. The solenoid on the divertor was very hot to touch. I put in a new diverter ($50) and no change, so I figure I had to spend $150 on a new motor controller, but instead found above post from Varonte, disconnected the power to the diverter valve, set wash to traditional and machine is working fine now.
To be more specific, unplug the connector which is 2nd from left on the motor controller. This connector has 2 light brown wires and is 3 pins wide but the middle pin has no wire on it. It controls power to the solenoid of the diverter valve. The diverter valve recirculates drain water back up into the bowl during ECO mode. Since the diverter is now disabled/unplugged, you must set the wash mode to traditional not eco.
HTH
-Stew
Thanks to all for posting solutions to error code 37 Just pulled the pump out and although there was no obvious obstruction, it was stiff to turn. Cleaned it up and now all working normal. I ended up taking the screws out and following the flow into the discharge pipes just to make sure there was no obstructions. I love the simple and elegant design of F&P Mike @ Darwin
Same problem. bobby pin blocking pump rotor. very easy d.i.y. job
We just solved the same code 37 problem. it was a broken wire right at the terminal spade lugs in the white plug that powers the water pump. Basically an open circuit. puleed the spade out and resoldered and machine back to normal. Easy. The wire are too fine and are subjected to vibration and i guess you will have intermittent codes 37 until it totally fails.
I followed the above suggestion of tipping over my washer and "undoing" the hoses to clear out any junk. Well I didn't find any "junk" but did notice that the fan motor thinggie was not turning very easy so I figured it must of burned itself out or something. Well with a but of tinking I got the fan to turn smoothing. (appearntly something was making it not turn smoothly)
Seems to be working ok now!
Thanks all had a dime plugged in the discharge pump.Cleaned out the lint build up and it runs like new. Thanks
I had this same problem with my machine today. My father and husband thought it was going to be a big job but they took a look at the pump and guess what? One of my safety pins had come off and was hanging up the pump! It fell out once they very easily removed the pump and voila! A working washer!
Thanks for all the tips up there. my attempt at resolving error code 37 is through a combination of abovementioned methods. this is what i did: 1. tilt the machine so that the bottom is exposed. 2. locate the small fan (belonging to the water pump) and manually spin it. when it was initially spun, it felt 'tight'. continue spinning it (counter)clockwise manage to loosen it and it began to spin freely. 3. put the machine more level but still slightly tilt, turn on the machine and execute 'SPIN' mode. my remaining water began to gush out now that the water pump+fan is free to operate. for me, the machine works fine and went into the full 9-minute spin cycle after that. my guess here is that there is really something stuck and preventing the water pum+fan to spin properly. manually turning the fan while tilting the machine dislodge whatever's causing the stuck. when the water's running with the machine slightly tilted, the thing causing the stuck is flushed out. all the best for your troubleshooting too!
We were getting intermittent error code 37s as well which I had researched was to do with the water pump. It happens just before the spin cycle, the machine shuts down with the error code. Most of the time if disconnected power and then restarted at the spin cycle it would come good, until finally one day it didn't. I tilted the unit and underneath I noticed that a whole heap of fibres from an item that had "exploded" in the machine many months back had got caught up in the shaft on the bottom of the water pump. Water pump is on the bottom front right, you will see a small fan for cooling (and catching fibres) on the very bottom. Once I had cut all the fibres off the shaft so the pump was spinning easily again the machine worked fine.
Our machine never spun at all so we emptied machine of all contents tipped it up and used hand to spin the tub underneath which seemed to free some sort of lodgement which was preventing it spinning through the first cycle. All good now.
I have had the same issue with my 8kg eco. I called washing repair man then cos he could not come for 3 days, lifted out the heavy (& very wet) towels to drip dry on line. I then let the machine run again (switched off at power socket when error first appeared), let it run & its just finished (empty of clothes) AOK. I am going to do a light/small load & see what happens- possibly this code just means too heavy to spin?
The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.
The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.
Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason. By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.
The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing. The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down. You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.
More information on when the error is occurring would be helpful resolving this problem. Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.
The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down. This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes. At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.
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the machine will not empty and i cant find the manual. can anyone help?
I am receiving error code 37, please let me know where on washer the actual drain pump is to remove and check for clog, can't see that it is disrupted in any way.
my washing machine wont empty the water just wont go down? can anyone help me?
Had the same problem. First machine gave the message too many suds. Then went on to display error 37 and machine would not drain or spin. Manually emptied machine by small jug. Tilted machine, unscrewed the pump (4 screws only) and removed pump. Problem was obvious immediately....there was a small piece of fabric (a waxing strip!!) balled up and blocking the pump. An easy problem to fix....had called the F & P service people and a repair man was due to come the next day at a cost of $120 plus parts. Would have been interesting to see if they had charged me for a new pump.
I had the same problem & error code 37. I've replaced the actual motor once and the control board twice & the cold water sensor once. I'm too old to be crawling around on my back in a cramped laundry room to mess with this machine or spend any more money on it.
Went out & bought a new Speed Queen that allows me to set wash temp & water level depth, (unlike newer machines). Speed Queens are used in almost every Laundromat in the US. I remember using them 50 years ago and the have the longest warranty & mine uses $11.00 worth of electricity a year!
What a deal!!!!
I just unscrewed the three screws which loosened it enough to pull the white part easily and I unplugged the two wires and then removed fluff and a stick so helpfully this works out!
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