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Re: dryer sensor: white wire & blue wire hook up to what...
The wire terminals may be different sizes, to only go on one way. If not, no big deal....the radiant sensor acts just like an in line switch, so it really will not affect the operation whichever way the wires go on.
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I don't have a Maytag schematic handy but there should be one on or in the dryer. Trace the clock wiring back until until you get voltage. I am betting one leg of the time motor goes to the drum motor (Gray wire maybe) and the other leg to the dryness sensor module (brown wire). Check these wires against both Line and Neutral. That should tell of it's the module or the motor block.
You need to check the solinoids on the gas vale. They might work to start but after they heat up some they possibly could break down and shut off. There are 2 coils on the valve. When you first start the dryer you should head a distinctive loud click noise. that is the primary coil opening the valve. When that happens you should also see the glow bar lighting. after the bar lights you should hear one more loud click. Thats the heat sensor opening and allowing the other coil to open to allow gas to flow and ignite. If you do not hear the first click when you start the dryer, look in the back for a small white rectangular fuse with 2 small wires on it. (they may be blue in color) That is a thermal fuse. Use a ohm meter to check if it is pen. If it is replace it.If you heard the first click and the glow bar starts to light but nothing else happens, you eed to check the heat sensor. It is connected to the flame baffle at the end of the gas valve. It will have 2 wires on it. One white and one blue I belive. It is attached by 1 screw. ( 1/4") You will need to check that out with a meter also. If it checks good reinstall it. You will then want to ohm out both coils. Only one may be bad but I recomend you replace the both of them. You will also want to make sure that your vent is not clogged up. That too can cause the dryer to short cycle. Hope this will help you.
Sometimes the heat sensor/ igniter gets carboned up and needs to be lightly sanded or cleaned for it to sense heat. That could prevent the main gas valve from opening and staying open. Also, does your unit have a heat limit switch or thermal switch that could be faulty? Check the wiring diagram.
When you moved the sensor wire on the moisture sensor may have fallen off.
Remove the front panel and locate the wire and the connection. It will be on the right side near the lint filter vent. If it is still connected your timer has gone bad.
theres a thermal fuse located on back panel usually white maybe 2 inches tall 1/2 wide 2 blue wires leading to it. ck for continuity, if none replace that(most common problem)... if good you can go back to the ignitor and unplug the white connector it plugs into. place your meter leads into the connector and turn on dryer, you should get 110v. if you do you have a bad ignitor, if not a thermo's gone bad (check the thermal fuse first though.