I was recieving no power to my set and took out the main power board and had it checked by a friend. He found that the main was not sending power to the other boards. He bridged a connection from an XCapacitor at the point where the boards connects that he thought may be failing, just out of curiousity. I reinstalled it and now it works, but when I turn it off I have to unplug the set in order for it to turn on again. I can unplug/plug the set back in without using the power button and it works fine, except for an awful clicking sound the last for about 2 seconds. I purchased a new main power board and installed it, and same problem, no power. Could this be a power cord or AC adapter issue? There is a small mechanism on the end of the cord just before it plugs into the board, could this be the problem?
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Back - light problem. Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
To some model sets; especially LED back-lighted types; the back-light inverter circuit will be part of the main power supply board [SMPS]. In such cases, the power supply board might need replacement. To some models sets, the back-light inverter and SMPS section circuit will be integrated at its main board itself. If so; the main board should be replaced. To some models of sets, all these section circuit will be integrated at its main board. If this is the case, you have to replace the main digital board./
Most sets have it labeled PSON but yours is one that is different, but you found the right pin to check and if its going to 3.4 volts then the main board is sending the signal to the power board to tell it to turn on power factor correction, the next question is the power board doing that?...on the power supply board there is a hot and cold section, look at the hot section and find a larger capacitor, one at 100 plus mfd at around 450 volt, hook your meter across that capacitor, when you turn the set on you should see about 160 volts and when the power button is pushed it should go to around 360, see if that happens, also be careful around that capacitor as it holds a charge way after the power is unhooked and from experience it doesn't feel very good to get across that...lol
Back - light problem. Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis. http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/ http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
To some model sets; especially LED back-lighted types; the back-light inverter circuit will be part of the main power supply board [SMPS]. In such cases, the power supply board might need replacement. To some models sets, the back-light inverter and SMPS section circuit will be integrated at its main board itself. If so; the main board should be replaced. To some models of sets, all these section circuit will be integrated at its main board. If this is the case, you have to replace the main board.
Most cell phone companies have a online way to text. Try using it to see if your friend receives it. You could also delete the contact info for the friend and start all over after they send you a text.
It may be an overheating problem. Make sure it is well ventilated. Also it could have a build up of dust bunnies inside in some of the heatsinks. If you are comfortable with it, take of the cover and gently blow it out with a compressor (low PSI) or canned air so it is clean inside. May also be an intermittent part which is a bit harder to find.
This could be 1 of a few things here. Without opening up your set and trying to look at voltages or indiciator lights I couldn't tell you exactly without some more info.
Without looking at it myself here are my thoughts and where I would first look at.
It may be a main board because: 1) Main board processes all your audio/video signals. Bad main board means bad video processing. Could do that. Especially if the main board is not sending the right signal or a bad signal to the rest of the boards so they don't do their jobs.
It may be a power supply because: 1) Power supply is well, the power supply. If it's sending inadaquete voltage to the main board you may not be recieving enough juice to keep that main board doing your video processing or further up the line keeping enough juice flowing to your TCon board to keep it telling things where to go and what to do. The power supply sends voltages to your Ballast board(controls your lights) and to your main board through which power is supplied to your TCon board via a LVDS line and a +12/+16V signals. If the power supply isn't pumping out enough juice to keep the TCon or Main Board running, it could be a problem. By the same token it could be that your P/S isn't sending power out to your ballast board.
It could be a TCon because: 1) If the TCon is bad, you won't get your pictures. This could be the TCon board itself or the LVDS cable from your TCon to your Main. However, with few exceptions, if it's a bad TCon you're looking at a total panel replacement.
It could be a ballast board because: 1) The Ballast Board controls the lighting behind the LCD screen. If this isn't working right you won't be seeing much of anything without that back lighting. If this is bad, it's a panel replacement. These are not field replaceable items by LG.
Based on the symptoms, without more data or a eyes-on view of it, I would say you're most likely looking at a Main Brd or PSU problem.
If the unit doesn't power on at all, no fan spinning and no power light, then it's either your power supply, and/or motherboard. Your hard drive could be damaged as well. You can find power supplies by googling tivo power supplies.
You may be better off sending out the unit for testing/repair. I recommend CCS in Indiana. Fast, and friendly service, used them many times. You will need to lose anything that was on the unit (settings, season passes and recordings) to ensure the drive is fully functional.