- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
To me it sounds like you need a fan limit switch to sense temperature increase and turn your fan on. At least you know that everything else is working. With out a schematic I can not tell you what type of limit this would be but I would look for a sensor either mounted right above the coils or beside them.
Have you looked on the inside of cover plate for heating and blower compartments.Often times they will put a wiring diagram there. Wished I could be of more help. Thank you
Yes there is a reset. Take of the front grille and you'll see the button on the front marked "HEATER RESET - PUSH". Make sure your unit is clean and free from lint and dust, which will accumulate over time and use. Inspect the unit for any signs of scorching or damage from whatever was put in front of the heater.
I had this same problem, which required a new heater. The thermostat tested fine. A bypass of the thermostat switch was attempted and the unit still would not work. The reset switch had never tripped to indicate a problem.
1) ECM Fan Clutch
1) K160 18BR/OR Park Lockout Solenoid Control Green 1) BR / OR = Brown/Orange unit with Green
2) K900 18DB/DG Sensor Ground 2) Black 2) DB / DG = Dark Blue/Grak Green unit with Black
3) K161 18BR/LB Fan Speed Sensor White 3) BR / LB = Brown/Light Blue unit with White
4) Not Used 4) Not Used
5) F856 18YL/PK 5 Volt Supply Orange 5) YL/PK = Yellow/Pink unit with Orange
6) F504 20GY/PK Fused Ig. Sw. Output Red 6) GY/PK = Gray/Pink unit with Red
With this, you have 5 due color cables unit to the 5 full color cables. Run.
Carrier wires are as follow Red black green whiteyellow. R common Black ground Y cool O or orange Reverse valve G fan W heat. The white on the Air handler depending on your electric backup heat has two wires together connected to white. Orange connects to orange on the condenser. Unless you have terminal board the everything is marked. Ruty
K, this could be a couple problems. How far down did you take it to clean? Are you comfortable with removing the combustion chamber/housing from unit. There are 4 screws in the top cover and 2 down where the work contact is. Remove them leaving just the fan assembly and handle housing. Next locate the roller arm next to the fan assembly, put a fresh battery in tool and push the arm (KEEPING HANDS AWAY FROM FAN) the fan should come on, if not you probably have an electronic assembly that is bad, if it does come on it should stop in a few seconds. Next depress the trigger and again the fan should come on. Now to diagnose the firing unit. Depress the lever on the roller arm and hold in while pulling trigger, you should see a spark and also hear it where the plug is. If not then you either have a spark unit that is bad or a wiring problem. At this point I would take in for repair. The spark unit is around 90-100 dollars When you put back together did you also replace the orings or clean the ring grooves? Let me know if you have any questions