Question about Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer

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Maytag dryer isn't heating

Maytag MDE9557AYW isn't heating. I removed the heat element and verified conntinuity through the thermal fuse (0.4 ohms) and it both looks and smells OK). I also did the heating element (10.7 ohms), and once again, it looks and smells good, i.e. not burnt. There's no lint build up and the system blows air through the vigorously.

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You never mentioned if you checked the large klixon mounted above the heater.If it is bad you will have no heat but the dryer will run. If the thermal fuse (mounted on the right hand side of the heater chamber, 2 white wires) is bad then the dryer simply will not run. If it is good then the next thing you need to check is the control thermostat mounted on the blower housing. While down there check to see if that wheel is loose. If the control thermostat is ok then you have a bad contact inside the timer. Sometimes you can clean the contacts in the timer like cleaning points on a car.

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

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My maytag neptune dryer doesn't blow any hot air


on top of the heating element on the left side there is a white 2connector part, that is the heater thermal fuse. disconnect the dryer power cord and one wire of the thermal fuse and use a meter to find out if you have continuity to it. if not replace it. also check for burn wires at heating element. also test heating element by disconnecting one wire and using an ohm meter test it at 2 therminals. it shoul measure 10-12 ohms.

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Dryer has no heat


Check the entire exhaust venting sytsem. If lint is inside of the tubing it will cause a restriction shutting the burner off at all times. If the tubing is clear the moister sensor is at fault and needs to be replaced

May 09, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag dryer is not heat up. I think the heating


Hello, There are a couple of variations of the heating element, depending on the series number of your dryer.

Here's a link to the parts list and line drawing so you can verify the proper element you need.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=SDE4606AYW&productCategoryId=0151200&brandId=3048&modelName=MAYTAG-LAUNDRY&diagramPageId=00005&componentDescription=REAR%20BLKHD,%20AIR%20DUCT,%20ROLLER&HTR%20(ELE)&documentId=M0510059&blt=06

If you have a Series 14 dryer, the element part number is #37001134, otherwise, there are a couple of other elements that your particular dryer might use, so check the model number and product tag so you can get the right parts.

You might want to check the element first, to make sure it is defective, before you order replacement parts, as it might be a faulty thermal fuse, which is much less expensive to replace than the heating element.

If you have a multimeter, you can check the fuse to see if it's failed. Be sure to turn the power off and unplug the dryer before removing the back access panel and checking the thermal fuse (see drawing in link above)

With the meter set to measure resisitance (Ohms) you can put a test lead on each side of the thermal fuse and if you get a reading showing no continuitity, then the thermal fuse is blown and needs to be replaced.

You can also check the heating element using the same method, again, make sure the dryer is unplugged before testing the continuity of the heating element, if you don't get a continuity reading, then the heating element is bad too.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Nov 13, 2009 | Maytag SDE4606A Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do I get to the thermal fuse on Whirlpool electric dryer LER4634EQ0


All the heating and temperature control components are located in the back of the dryer. To access, unplug the dryer and remove the exhaust vent hose. Turn the the dryer around so you can view the back and remove the back panel. With the panel removed, the component locations are as follows:

Right-Hand Side:

1. Heating element - located inside the heater box. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is about 9 to 13 ohms.

2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

3. Hi-Limit Thermostat - located on the outside of the heater box adjacent to the heating element terminals. It works in conjunction with the TCO to help regulate the drum internal temperature. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, it is recommended that you replace BOTH components to prevent premature failure. These two components are commonly sold as a set.

Left-Hand Side:

1. Thermal Fuse - located on the blower fan housing. It is a small white plastic looking component with two wires attached. If defective, the dryer will not run at all. If the component is good it should read a short (0 ohms).

2. Internal Bias Thermostat - located on the blower fan housing adjacent to the Thermal Fuse. It has four wires attached to it.

NOTE: All resistance checks should be performed with the component terminal wires disconnected to prevent false readings.

If you have any questions, you can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you. The components I mention are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat replacement kit
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat sold separately
Item 17 - Heating Element
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Internal Bias Thermostat

If you need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

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Check voltage at the receptacle first. The motor and timer operate on 120VAC. The heating element requires 208/240VAC to operate. Remove power from the unit. You can check the heating element, thermostats and thermal fuses using an ohm meter across each components terminals with one wire removed. The thermal fuses and thermostats should read zero ohms. The heating element will read low ohms (20 to 40). Successful heater operation still depends on the motor centrifugal switch being closed. Depending on the model, you need the heat circuit in the timer or electronic control to be closed.
I hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

Kitchenaid superba dryer won't heat Where is the heater fuse located?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse
How to take apart information for Admiral, Norge, Magic Chef and Crosley

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I apologize for not getting back to you sooner. Look for a thermal cut-out, thermal fuse, along with the Hi-Limit Thermostat inside the dryer. Some manufacturers call them thermisters. These components act as fuses and are designed to protect the dryer heating circuits from overheating. If these components fail, they will open like a fuse. They are not resettable (one shot) and must be replaced. The manufacturer places a wiring diagram inside the operator console. These components should be listed on that diagram, and are generally mounted in close proximity to the heating element. The manufacturer also recommends that you replace the hi-limit thermstat and the thermal cut-out (fuse) together if either is found to be bad. They are commonly sold as a set. If you go to searspartsdirect.com and type in your complete model number the components I mention are listed under the "Cylinder, Heater and Bulkhgead" heading as items 17 and 21. I hope this helps you. Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

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1 Answer

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Good luck.

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