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Wiring a thermostat

What do ''comm'', ''satisfied'' and ''demand'' relate to on the wirin diagram. i am not using it in a conventional heating setup but a plant growroonm to maintan constant temp control of stand alone heater.
i know one must relate to live ,earth etc but which ones?

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  • b_dawood Dec 14, 2008

    1st of all many thanx 4 your reply

    i didnt mention i was in uk. i wired the live from the mains to the "demand" terminal no 2.

    i wired the live from the heater to the "common"terminal.

    I joined both earths (grounds) ( 1 from main , 1 from heater)together.

    again both neutrals were joined this time in jinction box; and another feed from this went to terminal "neutral"



    so far so good but am not an electrician and would luv any comments

  • Robert Cannon
    Robert Cannon May 11, 2010

    Howdy,

    Can you provide more information on the thermostat? A thermostat is a simple computer that doesn't necessarily follow live, neutral, and ground.

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  • 334 Answers

Comm should be the common terminal/wire
Satisfied means that the unit is no longer calling for heat because the thermostats setting has been "satisfied" and has shut the unit off until the room is cooler and it is then "damanding" operation. This should bring the unit on. (when the thermostat is in "demand")

Posted on Dec 20, 2008

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I am assuming for the first explanation, the thermostat is not being satisfied. If this is the case, you may have a duct fallen off and is not heating the interior of the home. I have had several supply ducts fallen off the supply under homes in one subdivision because the original installers only duct taped the supply ducting to the headers and the duct just blew off. This happens more often than I would like to mention in attics spaces also. So if the thermostat is not satisfied look for major leaks.
2nd part, you may need to replace the themostat wire if the wires are shorting out. In particular the white wire is the normal color for thermostat for w connection for furnace control. If a white wire is shorting to any control wire that has 24 volts on it, like the green wire for the fan, red wire for the control voltage to most controls etc, the furnace will run continuously as long as the furnace is getting the voltage on the white wire. To check this out, turn the thermostat to off and check the voltage on the white wire to common. If 26 volts is present, the wire is shorting somewhere and the thermostat wire that is damaged needs to be replaced. I have seen pets, rodents, lawn mower blade damage, bad insulation problems and overdrawing components causing theromostat wire deterioration.
3rd possibility, is remote due to the unit has been installed for 10 years, but if recent addtions were made to home, the unit may not produce enough heat to heat the additional demands of added rooms. In particular, this winter has been really cold in some locals and the unit may just be undersized.
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How do I connect a 24v damper motor with 6 colored wires red white yellow green blue black to NO COM NC terminals.


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To help understand the operation of a zone system, say you have 2 zone system and zone 1 thermostat initiates a heat or cool demand. Zone 2 valves energizes and shuts and zone 1 stays open and allow air to heat/ cool zone 1. If zone 2 thermostat simultaniously initiates the same heat/cool demand, the zone 2 valve opens and both zone heat/cool. When either thermostat is satisfied the opposite zone valve closes and when both thermostat are satisfied both zone valves open.
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How to turn hunter thermastat model 44134 on


This question needs to be reclassified with aftermarket programmable home thermostats--not fans.

Hunter 44134

Getting the wiring connections correct to the terminals in the back plate is essential. Understanding better which colored wires do what functions for your particular brand and model of HVAC gear proves essential, too: "That's the rub!"

Unlike the brilliant and wisely-instituted electrical code, a sensible common "code" for HVAC thermostat wires doesn't exist--each brand, and many models represented by such brands--may have their own peculiar wiring color conventions. HVAC techs also have noted the increasing numbers of brands and models in the market these days, as well--thus, they too may resort to online help threads concerning such issues. (Certainly, the wiring conventions for heat pumps differs also from that of a conventional heat/air setup.)

Unfortunately, many of Youtube's demonstrations from HVAC pros prove merely general info concerning HVAC systems--these may prove somewhat useful: Being merely general info, they're often not specific enough always for particular units, though. (This proves keenly true concerning thermostat wiring.)

Always switch off the circuit breaker for your HVAC system before proceeding with wiring. My system is a Goodman heat pump--it uses a five-wire thermostat setup: The 44134 model from Hunter doesn't feature a terminal in the back plate for the "C" wire for that. (The blue wire from my Goodman heat pump is the "Comm" or "C" wire--that's very confusing in it's own way--the "B" terminal on the back plate for the 44134, and most other programmable thermostats, often is used with B-coded wires for other manufacturers' HVAC units--generally, "B" wires for such units are blue, as well--beware of reliance upon wiring colors!)

Hunter's FAQs clearly indicate that the "C" wire connection isn't always necessary, nor appropriate, for their thermostats--their 44134 is one isn't an exception. I twisted on a small, gray wirenut onto end of my blue Comm wire, further securing that better with electrical tape. (Simply wrapping the Comm wire well with electrical tape should prove also sufficient.)

Unless you know your system's peculiar wiring very well (that is, you're likely an HVAC tech), don't try to connect a Comm wire to another terminal on the back plate for the 44134--you'll likely ruin your thermostat (perhaps along with some other HVAC electronics): You may need then to get an HVAC tech out, after all!

As indicated above, don't merely "match" wiring colors (as a woman might for interior decorating or remodeling)!: This proves a continuing and overly common, comical mistake! Prove instead somewhat skeptical of thermostat wiring colors! A Biblical scripture applies: "Be as wise as serpents!" Take your time to get wiring connections right!

I've noted that the 44134 unit relies totally upon 2 AA batteries (not supplied in the package)--those must be in good working order and oriented correctly--otherwise, your thermostat and HVAC system won't function. Furthermore, the control unit may be easily removed from the back plate--thus allowing "easy-chair" configuration--again, HVAC and fan functions will halt immediately--the connected unit proves necessary for continued function.

Hunter also points out (on their packaging as well) that the 44134 (and, many other (if not all) Hunter thermostats) won't work with baseboard heating systems. Hunter's site FAQs prove too sparse--some may prove keenly useful, nonetheless.

I can't yet get my heat pump system to work with Hunter's "always on" fan switch setting--the rightmost "Auto/On" setting for that bottom-mounted switch at the right. Perhaps a jumper wire proves necessary in the back plate terminals--somewhere. (I've noted this also for Hunter's common 44277 model, as well.) I glean perhaps that somehow invoking the "G" terminal proves necessary. As usual, investigation proves warranted.

Definitely note the "Cool, Off, Heat" switch on the bottom left of the unit: Yeah, that's all too easy to forget. The Hunter 44134 doesn't provide any feature allowing automatic switching between heating and cooling--one must choose which function for the thermostat to control. If the switch is set to "Heat," cooling isn't possible--and, vice-versa.

For reference and troubleshooting, keep the manual and install instructions in a safe, memorable, and easily accessible place. Hunter does provide PDF manual versions online--installation instructions prove lacking online though--they're not in the user manual, either. Unfortunately, Hunter doesn't upgrade it's PDF manual versions.

I glean that Honeywell units may prove generally more easily configurable than Hunter units. Nonetheless, configuring Hunter units proves far from impossible, though. Configuring Hunter thermostats prove perhaps not as "intuitive.": The formal user manuals provided by Hunter thus may prove more keenly necessary for their thermostats' configuration.

Getting personal help online from Hunter may prove somewhat difficult (that may have changed recently). A few years ago, I called customer support: A woman answered my wiring question very satisfactorily. (I noted a jumper wire connect to the terminals of my old manual thermostat--she indicated that the jumper proves unnecessary in Hunter units.) Hunter phone support hours prove somewhat limited--they're similar to traditional office hours.

As with most programmable thermostats, the Hunter is a PRC (Chinese)-fabricated general-purpose consumer circuitry device. As such, it's (overly) intended to be wired and configured by the user to provide correct function for many particular and compatible HVAC brands/models. Given the particular installation that may perhaps prove difficult. Given the general-purpose nature of such thermostats, a simple installation sheet of instructions can't always offer sufficient and correct answers.

Without the particulars of your HVAC system and thermostat wiring, it proves very difficult in some cases for Fixya and other DIY sites to provide correct answers. (Most DIYers ultimately do succeed with install and use of programmable thermostats, though.)

"Proust" thanks you for getting this far!: Perhaps some of my particular solutions here do prove useful to some of you--more nit-picking, detailed work and anecdotes (intended for specific brands and models) needs to be offered in this area....

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Error codes from American Standard Pub 18-HD32D2-8, which is a one-sheet document that came with my American Standard air-conditioner:

29 = not listed

129 = not listed

80 = HPCO Fault - problem is in outdoor unit - Desscription: High Pressure Monitor Fault (hard lock out, cycle power to reset)

91 = Communication Inactive Fault - problem is in air handler - Descriptions - COMM Bit Master Clock Error, COMM Heat/Cool Demand Error, Serial Motor Communication Inactive Error

91 = Communication Fault - problem is in furnace - Descriptions: Blower motor no COMM response, Inducer motor no COMM response, Loss of heat/cool demand, Loss of clock signal

91 = Communication Fault - problem is in outdoor unit - Descriptions: Loss of Heat/Cool Demand Message (COMM), Loss of Bit Master (Clock Signal)

91 = Communication Fault - Description: Comm line is dead and no bits have been received.

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