I has the coupler replaced but then the guy said there was clothing stuck in between the drum and the basin. When he went to take the top of he snapped something underneath and then said that the transmission needed to be replaced because the bearings were stripped? However he never got the top off. Could he be lying to save his job?
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Re: 4 yr old Kenmore Elite washer will not spin
Sure sounds a little suspect ot me,some one not knowing who to remove the top of this( perhaps the easiest of all machines to work on) then condemns the machine? yea id look for a second (more knowedgleable ) opionion
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Some machines used a variable speed slow down process to avoid clothing damage, this removes the items from the outside of the drum where if the clothing was left for a length of time after the cycle has finished it could damage the fibres, this way the clothing is also easier to remove from the machine and promotes airflow over the items
It's more than likely the lower drum bearings. The sad news is they used to be covered by a ten year warranty that Sears took away because they were going broke changing the drum out. So if your washer is less than 10 years old the warranty will not save you and it will cost you between 2 and 3 hundred dollars. High efficiency washers, no matter the brand are pure junk. I've paid for mine twice in repairs. Grrrrrrrrrrrrr Good luck and maybe it's just something stuck under the disk at the bottom.
kenmore washers have a rod that when the machine goes int spin will drop the rod so the drum clutch can start to spin if the clutch ring is good then your rod is stiff or stuck if the rod drops the clutch ring is bad goodluck
The clothes are wet after spinningWhen the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:Motor couplerSpin cycleSiphoningWater-inlet valveMotor couplerTo test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.Spin cycleIf the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.SiphoningIf the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.Water-inlet valveWater-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.
You may either have a broken motor coupler (connects the motor to the transmission) or the clutch/brake assembly is slipping. To test the motor coupler start a cycle, if it fills and agitates, the coupler is ok. You can check the clutch/brake by selecting the spin cycle, open the lid and press the lid switch down using a pen. When the motor starts check for either a very slow spin or give it a boost by pushing the inner drum clockwise and see if it picks up any speed. If it spins just a little, the clutch/ brake assembly is slipping and will need to be replaced
when you spin it by hand dose it feel free or restricted? if rstricted you may have a peice of clothing between the two tubs.if free you can have a worn clutch.but it would agaitate fine.if wont agaitate or spin it may be your drive coupler.and if the drive coupler failed your washer will still drain.if you need more help you can email me thru FixYa God bless ,tom