Kenwood hac 9152d, was working fine now doesnt output any sound
The red light is still on so its not blown, its still recieving signal from the head unit and th sub isnt blown as i hav tested it with a standard speaker and still doesnt make any sound, it was working fine and then when i wasnt listening to loud music or anything it jst went off
everything is still connected fine and no adjustments have been made, help please, thanks.
Re: kenwood hac 9152d, was working fine now doesnt output...
Check the fuse on the amp.
My girlfriend had the same thing, light was on, no sound whatsoever. The fuse on the amp had blown, but I'm guessing some current must have made it through to just put the light on. Make sure you have a 40 amp fuse in it, that's what it needs.
a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
that reciever is not going to carry a hi definition video signal, it doesnt have either hdmi or component video inputs.
you can still use it, but if you run the picture through the reciever, it will have poor quality.
heres how you are supposed to hook it up:
find the single,m yellow video jack on your sattelite box, and hook that up to the "tv" video input, then hook the laft and right audio outputs from the cable box into the "tv" audio left and right inputs on the receiver. hook up the dvd player and vcr in the same manner, using "dvd" and "VCR" (if labeled as such) inputs on the reciever.
finally, send the tv video and audio outputs to the composite video in and left/right audio inputs on the tv. the video will be running through the reciever, and when you use the reciever to switch the sound source, the video will also be changed. you could get better picture quality if you ran the video directly to the tv using component (seperate green, red and blue) outputs/inputs, and bypassing the reciever on the video end, but then you would have to change inputs on the tv AND reciever to change from your cable box to your dvd player.
You will need to connect your speaker outputs from the head unit to the high power inputs on the amplifier. If the amp only has low power inputs(rca jacks) then you will need to get a device that lowers the output signal from the radio so the amp can be connected. The red wire will go to the switched power. The yellow will go to constant power. Black goes to ground. Now the blue wire is the signal the amp gets from the stereo to turn on. Your stock stereo will probably not have this ability so you will have to hook that wire to the switched power. Your amp will come on whenever the key is on...even if the stereo is off. If your stock stereo has a wire that sends out a power signal when it is turned on you could try that for the blue wire. Just make sure you have the negative battery cable on the car disconnected so you don't short out your vehicle's electrical system while installing the amp.
You don't say if you've configured the Receiver to know you have a subwoofer (under Multicontrol - SUBW YES). Unless it knows about the Sub it won't send anything out that single "preout". You can get an RCA splitter to run that single output to both inputs in the Sub.
Just as an experiment, temporarily run one a pair of cables from the REC OUT to the Sub's inputs and tune an FM station to prove the Sub amplifier is alive. If it's still silent, it's dead. If there is sound (muffled) you need to go back to the Receiver to figure out why the Sub Preout is signal-starved.
Most of the time if the red light is on the amp is no blown but some times it does this cause the subs are hooked up in the wrong way. If the amp is only 2ohm stable and you hook the subs up to it at 1 ohm than the amp will not work so I would check this frist.
It sounds to me like you may have burnt a trace off of the bottom of the circuit board inside the amplifier. If you know how take the amplifier apart and look carefully at the traces. To be clear the traces are the lines on the bottom of the circuit board not the component side. Look carefully they can sometimes be hard to spot. If you find one solder a jumper wire across the two points. If you take the amplifier apart take care in treatment of the output transisors along the sides.
Sounds like you got the wrong speaker load by either parralleling some speakers or else you bridged the outputs in such a way to create the wrong speaker load or maybe all of the above. In short, it sounds like you have blown at least one of your output channels and its time for a trip to the repair shop. I suggest you disable your amp at once so that it doesn't do any more damage to itself.