Hello. I'm about to order a CGE mount. This will go onto my custom pier which currently suports a 14 inch wedge mounted LX200. I need to have a look at a technical drawing, with dimensions, of the mount to work out the size of the pier extension I will have to make, and also need to see how the base of the mount will connect to the pier.
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You should train the drives, and purchase a separate 12 volt power pack with the correct cigarette lighter style power cable. Calibrate motors BEFORE you train the drives with the same power source you will use outside at night.
If this is a GPS model-- and new--- I would execute a RESET on the hand controller-- calibrate motors and train the drives and take the scope outside and get a Satellite link and do a two star automatic alignment.
Make SURE you are centering the correct alignment stars. By the way TRAINING must be done in alt az mode before you put the scope on a wedge-- it cannot be done in polar mode.
Hello, in order to add freon to a window unit you must add a piercing valve to then low side of the system. The valve mounts to the suction line and allows you to connect your gauges and add freon. Here is a link to where you can purchase piering valves. http://www.hvacr-tools.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=HVACR&Product_Code=BPV31&Category_Code=VALVES
The tension pulley is mounted onto a semi-flat mounting bracket that is, in turn, mounted at three points, using bolts that also hold the timing chain cover. You have to jack up the bottom of the motor for temporary support and pull the top engine mount in order to get it off. To replace the tension pulley, ensure that You have the proper kit to replace it and follow the steps below:
Make sure You wedge the car after packing it in a garage where You want to remove and install this tension pulley,
Remove the negative terminal on the battery and leave the car for about 15 minutes before working on the car,
Remove passenger side wheel,
Take off the plastic access panel that is low and to the right in the wheel well opening. It has several plastic screws,
You can now see the tensioner pulley and lower belt. Use a 14mm socket on an extension and loosen the bolt on the pulley.
Behind and under the pulley bracket is an adjuster bolt. Loosen that to be able to move the pulley upward and allowing for the belt to come loose and off. This is now a good time to change that lower drive belt. It will now flop right off the AC compressor, tensioner pulley, and crank pulley.
Reassemble in reverse order.
Remember to fix the negative terminal of the battery back on.
Wall mounted door opener remote should get power from the main console once that is powered up. If you have wired correctly onto to the wall mounted unite and onto the main console and upon powering up the main console there is still no "life" on the wall mounted unit, I would check if there is actually any current coming it. You can easily do it with volt meter (Harbor Freight tools have a very good one for $7 or so). If no active current, call Chamberlain.
On the top of the telephone wedgeabout 1 inch in from the right and left are two pressure points. Pressing in on the pressure points while pulling the wedge downward should release the wedge from the main body of the telephone. Reversing the wedge is for mounting a telephone on a wall jack but it might raise the phone a little bit.
Don, if you mean the handscrew that retains the mount in the hub, I believe that it's a common 10mm. Should be able to get one a big box hardware. I have seen CG-5s with the hole bored out and retreaded to 1/2NC to mount on a Meade HD Field Tripod. HTH, Geo.
You have a standard lx200 problem. If you transported your scope a lot with the drives "locked" it damages the RA and DEC drives. If you keep using it, the motors burn out and start drawing too much current. This sometimes blows the motor driver chips on the motherboard which are getting very rare.
The burned out tantalum caps can be replaced with better aluminum electrolytics very cheaply. If the ones in your Autostar burned out, they often burn up the ribbon cable. Also, they often take out U11, a 74LS14 chip on the motherboard. Also a cheap repair. You should take the Autostar apart. If they are burned up, it will be obvious. If your ribbon cable survived, you should replace the caps with aluminum electrolytics. I believe they are 6.8 uf.
So, if you can work an ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the two drive motors with the plugs unplugged. If it is about 14 ohms they are ok. If they are about 3 or 4 ohms, they are toast. Check the worm drives for end play. If there is just a little, you can adjust them. The battery jack on the control panel often breaks the solder joints on the board, causing one of the problems you describe. You can check that and replace/resolder as necessary. The on/off switch often fails and gets intermittent. These are also cheap and can be replaced. I don't repair these for a living but I repair a few of them for friends in the club. These are pretty common problems.
The problem is the addition of the 80mm telescope to the assembly. The telescope is now out of balance, and places extra weight off-center as the position chages. Too great an off-balance will cause the main gears to 'jump' the worm teeth. The solution is to restore balance by adding counter weights as needed. Loosten the axis locks (carefully) and see which direction it wants to move. To balance my LX, I used a small bag with lead buckshot to determine how much weight was needed and where to achieve balance. Then I added fixed weights to the mount. Once this is done, the scope should track correctly.scopestuff.com has balance kits at reasonable prices.