The camera was dropped. Case opened slightly. Upon removing screws, I saw that the little circuit board corresponding to the on-off switch was bent. I did not see other damage. I was able to put the camera back together but there is no power. Batteries check out as good.
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The problem is a tiny microswitch which is located between the battery slot and the SD card slot, if you feel technically inclined you can open the camera carefully and take it apart to the point where you can remove the upper circuit board ( NOTE 1: make a careful note of every screw you remove since they are different size and need to be used exactly in the same order) and then the small black plastic assembly above the circuit board below, you can see the defective switch on top of the 2nd board, remove the plastic part of the switch until you see the bare 2 contacts on the circuit board, solder a small piece of wire to bridge the contacts, now very carefully reassemble the camera observing the exact order of screws used, see NOTE 1. If everything is back in order insert the battery and the camera should work now. note: should you not be inclined to do this work and want to sell the camera as is for spare parts I am interested, drop me a note at: cocnutray at yahoo.com. A Nikon repair shop will charge between $80 to $110 FOR THIS TYPE OF REPAIR, THEY WILL ACTUALLY REPLACE THE DEFECTIVE MICRO-SWITCH. HOPE THIS HELPS :-)
Go search for this ebay item
350138808473 and purchase the flash assembly for the m407. Other options is to search broken m305, m307, or m407 cameras (the components are interchangeable) that have working flashes. The batteries I suggest purchasing new rechargeables batteries and try a fresh charged pack. It may not be a bad idea to also purchase a AA battery recharger. You will need precision screw-driver set and electrical tape.
There are six screws on the outside of the case. Remove the six screws and gently pry the case open and remove the camera from the case. I found that placing my thumbs around the Tripod stand and opening as if it were a **** works.
The next step is to remove the LCD and the button board. What holds them in place are two small screws next to the bottom of the LCD. Remove the screws and small aluminum frame around the LCD. Using a small flat-head precision screw driver, gently pry the LCD loose from the base that is soldered to camera main circuit board. The LCD should be hanging by the ribbon cable. Using the precision screw driver, gently loosen the prongs that hold the LCD in place. After the LCD has been remove, remove the button board, which should be loose (it snaps into the main circuit board and it is taped to the flash assembly. Try to have as much of the tape on the button board after removal. You can use packaging tape to replace the tape.
WARNING: The flash assembly contains a 330 V capacitor. The flash assembly is covered with black electrical tape to prevent accidental contact to any expose metal. Contacting the metal will give you a good size shock.
The next step is to loosen the flash assembly from the camera. In the back of the camera, underneath the LCD and button board, there are three black screws that holds the battery chamber in place. Remove these screws, but the chamber is also screwed the flash assembly. Turn the camera around. You will see that there are three items attached to wires that you will have to either pry or snap off. The first is the switch by the battery door. The next is the speaker that is snapped into the assembly. The last is a disk that is sticked to the batter chamber (via an adhesive) Gently pry each of these loose (using a small flat-head precision screw-driver) and leave each component hanging from the wires.
There are two screws that attach the battery chamber to the flash assembly. You will need to look for theses screws underneath the black tape. The first one is easy because it the edge of the assembly. The second one is located in the middle of assembly and you will have to lift the tape to expose the screw. There is a third screw that holds the small valance of the flash bulb. This can stay on. Once the screws have been removed, the battery chamber should dangle out. (PS. This exposes the SD card slot if you need to straighten out bent copper prongs that prevents your card from being read.)
The assembly is plugged in to the main circuit board. This is located behind the capacitor (which looks like a battery.) Special care is require to wiggle or pry the open the plug to avoid damaging the plug from the flash assembly or from the main circuit board. I usually sit the camera on the table and stick the precision screw-driver in that area behind the capacitor and carefully pull the screw driver up. Once the flash assembly is loose, it should plob over to the overside, being held together by a copper foil that has been soldered to both the flash assembly and main circuit board. Try to leave as much of the copper foil behind with main circuit board as you tear the foil to fully remove the flash assembly.
Plug the good flash assembly into the slot on the main circuit board. Tuck the copper foil back underneath the tape. Screw the battery chamber back into place. Tuck back the battery door switch, speaker and disk back into proper location. Replace any black tape with electrical tape. Assemble the button board and LCD back into the main circuit board. Screw back in the alumnimum frame. Put the main camera inside the back half of the camera plastic case. Put the battery door in place (this may fallen off when removing the case. Snap in the front case and screw the case shut. Test the camera for functionality.
Cracked screens in the r707 is easy replacement. I just tend to swap screens from another r707 that has a lens issue. I have noticed that there is two types of LCDs in the r707 camera. One is easy type to replace because all it has is a serial cable that is attached circuit board. The other is a little harder because it has, besides the serial cable, two additional wires that are soldered to the board. The lcd is actually attached the black half of the camera's case. You will have to remove all of the screws and then remove the front (metallic) half of the camera. There are two cables that attached the camera circuit board. One is the LCD and the other is button/SD flash board; both of which are attached to the back half of the camera's case. Remove the back case and swap out the LCD and reattach everything in the reverse order of dissassembly.
Cracked screens in the r707 is easy replacement. I just tend to swap
screens from another r707 that has a lens issue. I have noticed that
there is two types of LCDs in the r707 camera. One is easy type to
replace because all it has is a serial cable that is attached circuit
board. The other is a little harder because it has, besides the serial
cable, two additional wires that are soldered to the board. The lcd is
actually attached the black half of the camera's case. You will have to
remove all of the screws and then remove the front (metallic) half of
the camera. There are two cables that attached the camera circuit
board. One is the LCD and the other is button/SD flash board; both of
which are attached to the back half of the camera's case. Remove the
back case and swap out the LCD and reattach everything in the reverse
order of dissassembly.
I was finally able to fix it. It did take me a little longer than the 10 minutes as another as written:) I had trouble getting 2 of the little screws out, but finally succeeded. Then I saw the orange ribbon, but nothing seemed to be loose. At last I saw where it connected at the TOP, and pushed down the little black connectors which showed on both sides under the orange ribbon. I pushed it down as far as I could, put the back on the camera and turned it on! And it worked! Thanks so much for the tip. I am going to keep a little screw driver in the camera case along with the tip how to fix it in case it is a problem again!
If you drop one of the Coolpix cameras, the case can get jammed up against the lens. The lens may not extend at all, and you are probably getting SYSTEM ERROR messages. The motor that extends the lens isn't powerful. By loosening the screws that hold the case together, you may be able to move the case slightly and get everything back into alignment. This task is for the mechanically inclined and who can be gentle and patient. Brute strength is NOT called for here. Also, if your camera is under warranty, do not do this!
Removing the case screws will require a jewelers phillips head screwdriver and a well-lit workspace that will prevent losing the screws (they are tiny). Not all the screws are exactly the same. You have to keep track of where they came from so that they go back into the same hole. Get a clean sheet of paper and draw a map of the camera body showing where the screws go. There are 11 screws all together two of which are under the battery cover.
Shut off the camera and remove the battery. As you remove the screws, place them on the corresponding spot on the map. When all the screws are removed, the case may not want to come apart. GENTLY move the two halves of the case apart at the bottom of the camera (For some reason, the camera wants to come apart at the base before the top). It probably isn't necessary to take the body apart. If the body does come apart, note that the OFF/ON dial is connected to the circuit board by a thin ribbon cable, so the halves cannot be separated completely in any case. DO not pull on this cable.
What you are trying to do is loosen the two halves of the case and give them a chance to get back into the original position. Note that the tripod mount is a separate piece and will shift slightly if you separate the case halves at the bottom.
If the case halves are loose and they have moved, you've may have fixed the problem. Replace the screws. You may need a pair of needle nosed pliers to get the screws back into the holes. Put the battery in and turn on the camera. If you moved the body correctly, then the lens should pop out. Don't be afraid to try a couple of times.
I may have been lucky in that this worked for me, but if your camera isn't working at all (mine wasn't), this may be worth a try. Just be extremely careful of those screws.
Any small distortion to the case will jam the dust shutter mechanism, as will dislodged dust and dirt. Remove the battery and carefuly remove the case screws. DO NOT LOSE. Lift off the front cover, take care with the top control knob and on/off switch as there are dust shields that may tear. This reveals the dust cover mechanism on the front of the camera. Dust off with an air-duster or soft spotlessly clean (new) paintbrush. Check a narrow ribbon cable is plugged-in at the front as this powers the cover motor. Gently guide the case around the top rotary control & on-off switch and line-up the circuit board beneath the rotary switch. Do not force anything together. Lightly re-assemble without screws and insert the battery - you cannot make this test without the cover-on as the case supports the switches needed to control the camera. Check that the cover operates correctly or is jamming on the case cover at the front where the shutter moves. If all OK replace the screws, else gently straighten the case with your fingers. This has happened several times to mine and cleaning it/lightly straightening the case cover always make it work again.
I did the same thing to my Photosmart E327 and upon inspection, I found that the len had fallen out. I could not find it so I am trying to find how to get it replaced. The blurry picture began for me after the drop. Suggest that you check to see if your len has become dislodged, or fallen out as mine did.