Question about Whirlpool Refrigerators

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The dispenser does not send ice thru the door. the auger moter does not seem to be working. I repaired the Ice bin; the plastic auger fins were breaking up. now the auger will not turn. Is there some 'hidden' switch that will not allow the auger moter to run if the ice bin is not inplace???

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  • Whirlpool Master
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The bail switch

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SOURCE: the auger on my ice dispenser is broken

that is not true you can buy the parts seperately if you want to I will get the part # tomorrow for you just please rate me

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SOURCE: the auger on my ice dispenser is broken

you should be able to get it in metal mine is in metal check with your apliance parts dealer in your area thanks from gilles

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SOURCE: Whirlpool 2211590 Ice Auger Conquest 2-door

If the ice will not go down the delivery outlet. the the augar will have to work harder than .normal .. try drying the out the delivery area // then use a food grade silcone and spray this . this may correct problem .. . also ck the seal on the door if bad it will let mosture in and cause poor delivery .. hope this helps mm. feed back pls ..

Posted on Jul 10, 2011

walesarumi
  • 6993 Answers

SOURCE: GE model GSS221FRFBB side by

Hi
Investigate each of these two areas if your ice-maker is not dispensing ice;
1. Water Inlet Valve 2. Defrost Thermostat
Water Inlet Valve: Your ice maker's water inlet valve could be filled with ice. If it is, simply thaw the its water tube with a hair dryer to remove the blockage. Be careful to not melt any plastic parts with the blow dryer.
An ice maker's water inlet valve has a filtering screen to block minerals and other debris from entering into your ice cubes. It is possible that the water inlet valve's screen is blocked, and not allowing any water through to make ice. Clean out any built up debris you find. You should be able to pop the screen out of place with a screwdriver and then put it back in place with the screwdriver again once it is cleaned.
Alternatively, the water inlet valve itself may have become defective. You will have to test it. If the test proves the valve is defective, replace it.
Follow the below directions to test your water inlet valve;
Before you begin to test your ice maker's water inlet valve, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.
Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this test.
1. Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve. Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver.
2. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut.
3. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port.
4. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting to test for continuity. Place each of the multitester's leads on a terminal. Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve.
6. If the test you conduct with your ice maker water inlet valve does not produce these results, then you should replace the component.
Defrost Thermostat ; It could just be that your freezer thermostat is not set low enough. Try adjusting the thermostat to a colder setting. Or your ice maker might not be making ice because of a defective defrost thermostat. Test your defrost thermostat to determine if it has malfunctioned. If it has, you will need to replace it.
Directions for testing a refrigerator defrost thermostat;
Before you begin to test your defrost thermostat, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.
Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this repair.
1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.
5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat.
Follow the above closely and I believe it should guide you in solving the problem;
I hope this helps.
Good luck.

Posted on Jul 11, 2011

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