Question about Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

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I left the red jumper wire connected

My unit was not working. I went back over the installation instructions. I did the two wire connection and realized that I did not remove the red jumper wire between the Rc and Rh terminals. It has been two days since I realized this. Will it have caused a short i the unit?

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Check the thermal fuse or switch. and replace it with the value., check the felament or the the main heating part. maybe its already shorted/ burn.

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

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Removed my non programable Honeywell RT 5220D replaced it with a Honeywell RTH6350D to run my Goodman Heat Pump. First I labeled the wires then connected wires as follows: AUX, G, C, O/B (orange wire)...


Leave the factory jumper between R & RC. Connect the wires to the new stat just as you have them labeled. Use a piece of thermostat wire to make a jumper from AUX to E terminals. Your new thermostat should give you instructions on how to access the installer set up. You are going to set it up as heat pump with aux. I see this is 2 days old but if you need any help let me know.

Feb 13, 2011 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

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Proper Gaggenau EB294 Oven Terminal Block to Cable Harness wiring


If its brand new, most possibly the electrician did not bridge the mains connection.
It sounds like an installation fault.

There is usually a jumper between 1-2-3 on the L connection on the mains, and a jumper between 4-5 on the N connection.

Oshie

Apr 09, 2008 | Gaggenau EB294/295 Electric Double Oven

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I'm trying to install this for our outdoor Christmas lights. The wall switch box has 1 black, 1 white, and 1 bare (ground). Where do I connect the red "timer" wire from the timer unit? When I...


Single pole application, red wire is capped off.
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#ST01C

That being said, you still have to connect Blue and Black wires correctly.
Switch has two wires, if you do not know which wire is which, follow instructions below.
Connect Blue and Black to either wire.
Turn on power.
Push ON-OFF button.
If lights work, then timer is wired correctly.
If lights don't work, then reverse Blue and Black.

Be sure outdoor bulb is working.
I have a long story about that, and tested every wire and breaker ... and bulb was burned out.

Nov 28, 2010 | Intermatic Inc. ST01C Digital In-Wall...

1 Answer

No heat coming from central heat/cooling system after install


Hi,
Yes add the jumper from the Rc to the Rh terminals. the Rh feeds to the W and that is what turns your heat on!!
Also leave the HG wire exposed you are running elelctric heat so you want the cycle rate to be for electric heat "HE"
And no You do not need the "C" wire with that t-stat, just make sure that it cannot touch any of the other wires or you will burn out your transformer in the heating unit.

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!

Heatman101

Nov 25, 2009 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

3 Answers

A duo therm thermostat (p/n 3105058) was removed because it would not operate the air conditioner/heater in a firan fireside camper. it was knocked loose from the wall damaging it.the thermostat is for use...


a. Remove the cover of the thermostat.
b. Connect the RED wire from the air conditioner
to the “RC” terminal on the thermostat.
c. Connect the “YELLOW” wire from the air conditioner
to the “Y” terminal on the thermostat.
d. Connect the “BLUE” wire from the air conditioner
to the “H” terminal on the thermostat.
e. Connect the “ORANGE” wire from the air conditioner
to the “G” terminal on the thermostat.
f. Push the thermostat wires into hole in wall and
fill excess hole with insulation.
g. Mount thermostat base to the wall with screws
provided.
h. Check all thermostat wires on base to ensure
they are completely clear of the bimetal coil of
the thermostat. Adjust if necessary.
i. Replace thermostat cover.
If nothing operates on the air conditioner, remove the
return air grille assembly and verify the red, orange, yellow
and blue wires are properly connected (red-to-red,
orange-to-orange, etc.).
Next, disconnect the red wires and check for 12 volt
DC between the red wire from roof section and the orange
or blue wire from roof section. If no voltage received,
refer to Section F2. If voltage is received, the
problem lies with the thermostat or thermostat wires.
Next, disconnect all 4 wires (red, orange, yellow and
blue) from the thermostat. With the thermostat set on
COOL mode, FAN mode set on AUTO and HIGH, and
temperature selector set lower than the room temperature. Check for continuity between terminal RC (red wire)
and terminal G (orange wire); and RC (red wire) and
terminal H (blue wire). If continuity is achieved on each,
proceed with the next step.
Set fan switch to LOW. Continuity should NOT be present
between terminal RC and Terminal H, but present between
the other terminals (Y & G) and terminal RC.
If all of the previous checks are good, the thermostat is
good, do not replace it. If any one of the previous checks
are not correct, replace the thermostat.

Jun 15, 2009 | Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Replacing an older Rheem Ht/Pump w/a new Goodman Ht/Pump


The installation instructions should explain connecting 4 control wires to a 5 wire thermostat. Absent the instructions, check to see if any of the terminals on the new thermostat have jumper wires run between them -- if this is the case the two terminals w/ jumpers will only require one wire, and it doesn't matter which terminal is connected -- just match colors.

Apr 28, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Honeywell RTH 230B Thermostat Wiring


put the jumper back in RC and RH and that should do it.

Aug 26, 2008 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

2 Answers

Need wiring solution for replacement part


Ok....Just replaced the Left Front "dual burner" switch on my Kitchenaid Supurba.

Original switch symptom:
Burner was stuck on all the time. We had to switch the circuit off in the main breaker box in the basement.

New switch problem:
The new replacement switch did not work properly. The element would come on and would never cycle on and off. Thus, the net result was if you turn the burner on, it was on "high". It didn't matter where put the heat setting at...It's on high for both the inner element and the larger outer element.

I ended up taking the old switch apart and found that one of the contacts was mis-aligned and wedged itself in the "closed" position. I un-wedged the mis-aligned contact and bent it back into alignment. I took out the new switch and put the old one back in. It works perfectly.

Meanwhile, I had to figure out why the new switch was not working. The new switch comes with re-wiring instructions because it is not an exact replacement as the old switch. There is a chart that tells you what wires go to which prongs on the new switch. The new switch also includes a "jumper wire" that must be installed. Here's where I went wrong. The instructions say to jump S1 to P1 (which I did). But, I did not route it exactly as the picture shows and the brass crimp end actually hits against another unused connector. So be careful when routing the jumper wire.

Old Switch Number: 9751758
New Switch Number: 8203536 (Made by FSP Appliance Care Products - A Whirlpool Corporation)

Now for the wiring:

Description Wire Color Old Switch New Switch
& designation Terminal # Terminal #

L1 Black (RL1) 2 P1
H1 Red 3 4
H2 Orange (LFA) 4 4A
P Dark Red 5 S2
N or L2b Brown (LFN) N 2
N or L2b Red (RL2) N P2

On the new switch, use the supplied jumper wire to jump S1 to P1 as instructed.
Yes, on the old switch, 2 wires connect to a common connector (the Brown LFN & Red RL2).

Unfortunatley, I did not document the red wire (LF3)...Sorry....

Hope this helps.....



Mar 15, 2008 | KitchenAid KESC307 Electric Kitchen Range

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