Question about KitchenAid KGST307 Gas Kitchen Range

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Burner flame shuts off during use and then you smell gas

Opened door and you could see burner flame come back on and then the gas smell goes away,????

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All ovens, when they reach temperature they go off and on to kip the temperature, but if you smell gas the oven ignitor needs replacing, the ignitor gets red hot to ignite the burner ,but when ignitor does not get hot enough, it will have a delayed, that's the reason you smell gas.

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

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My Ruud achhiever 90 starts to fire but as soon as the blower fires the burner goew out. I also noticed that the "igniter" on the end isnt firing. Could that cause the burner to not stay lit when the


There is an ignitor and a flame sensor. If the ignitor does not ignite the gas after a time, it goes out. If the flame sensor does not detect ignition the gas valve closes. When you start it you should see the ignitor come on like a light bulb and glow, then the gas valve opens and you get ignition. Then the flame detector turns on when the ignitor goes out. Flame detectors are like a chrome wire that has one connection to it and it sits part of the way in a burner. They get dirty and corroded. When that happens it shuts down. You can clean the flame detector with steel wool of scotch brite pads. Dont get too carried away doing that though.

Dec 25, 2012 | Heating & Cooling

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Water heater goes out


The burner needs to be adjusted

Mar 13, 2017 | Water Heaters

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No heat, ignitor goes on burner goes on sometimes and after short time goes out. ignitor goes back on, but no burner. what up


If the flame sensor is not returning a good signal, the gas valve is shut off as a safety measure. I surmise that in this situation, the igniter is programmed to fire for a time to flare off any accumulated gas from the initial attempt to fire up the burner.

Check for the following: adequate combustion air supply (make sure inlet vents are clear), proper exhaust venting, flame sensor properly positioned and not cracked or otherwise broken, burner holes are clean and not caked over with combustion deposits (if the flame is uneven and weak right where the flame sensor is located, it will be treated as a failed ignition).

In the worst case, the gas valve is defective and unable to detect the flame signal. It's also possible that a thermostat is sending an overheat signal, but that doesn't account for the igniter sparking a second time after the burner shuts off.

May 19, 2011 | Maytag Neptune MDG9700A Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Burner lights. Flame pulls away from burner and sensor. Unit shuts off


The first thing I would do is check burners to make sure they are clean. Often if rust particles or carbonsoot come loose from inside of the heat exchanger they can partially clog burner opening which causes increase in gas pressure to fewer ports.This can make the flame roll out of burner compartment shutting off flame rollout switch.With burners off turn thermostat down so that furnace won't come on and inspect burners. If they are dirty you can use shop vac with crevice tool to clean most of them. If needed the burners can be removed for cleaning. Usually all you have to do is raise up on the back end of burner and slide it backwards to clear air shutter and burner orifices and then remove. Clean one at a time and put them back in the same position they were in.When they are all back in furnace reset flame rollout and check furnace.
If burners are not dirty then I would have service tech. check gas pressure and repair as needed. Hope this helps you. Thanks

Dec 14, 2010 | Honeywell Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

When I turn the on the first burner will light and flame are OK, but lighting the next burner the flame goes down to a point that you can barely see the flame. It appears that the gas get reduce to have a...


sounds to me like your other burner isn't getting the same amount of gas flow. what you need to do is give your grille a good cleaning and check the lines for any leaks. you will always smell gas so it will be hard to tell by smell alone. Test your lines by wrapping them tight with foil or something removable and turn your grille on to see if the flame gets bigger.

Oct 04, 2010 | Grilling

1 Answer

Burner lights 5-10 seconds shuts down. Good air flow. Gas smell at times out vent.


The burner will shut off for various reasons.

First, there is a sensor right at the burner flame. If the sensor does not indicate flame the gas is shut off to avoid filling your house with gas. It is usually a short metal rod. Oftentimes cleaning it will get it working again. Or the signal from the sensor isn't getting back to the controller, so check for loose connections.

This page explains it well.
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dryer/gdryer/check/flamesensor.php

There are some other sensors that will shut the heat down. A temp sensor where the hot air leaves the dryer drum. This is to keep from overheating the clothes and lighting them on fire. If this sensor is bad, or the wiring to it is not getting that signal back to the controller, the dryer will shut the burner down. Although 10-15 seconds is pretty short, this is a possibility. Try different heat settings to see if you get the same result. If it only happens on one heat setting you most likely have a bad temp sensor.

Visit here for more info.
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dryer/gdryer/check/thermostat.php

Another possibility is that the gas valve (solenoid) is getting near the end of its life and can't stay open long. This is not likely, but still possible since the burner does light.

http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/dryer/gdryer/check/gascoil.php

Next possibility is that the gas line is partially plugged. When the burner fires the gas pressure drops rapidly. When the burner goes out the gas sneaking past the obstruction raises the pressure back up.

Final possibility is a bad controller.

Jan 19, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MDG5500AW Gas Dryer

1 Answer

When it goes to the second and third stage on the dial to make it hotter the flame goes out. If you re-pilot it, it comes right bak on, but it will not stay on the higher settings.


there is a flame rod that looks like a thermocouple at one end of the burner. Pull it back away from the burner toward the front of the heater slightly.This will allow the heater to operate at higher temps without shutting off the gas to the burner. The high limit will still work but the sensor is in the flame to close and is getting to hot as the flames get higher

Jan 03, 2010 | Blue Flame Charmglow 30K BTU Propane Vent...

1 Answer

My oven flame is yellow and orange. you can smell


open air vent on main burner. check burner orifice and pressure regulater

Dec 31, 2009 | Whirlpool Accubake SF362LXTS Kitchen Range

2 Answers

I have a kitchenaid gas stove model #KGRT607. The oven does not reach desired temperature and there is a smell of gas when oven is turned on.


I had what seems to be a similar problem with my range, which is a KitchenAid KGRT607HGL6. I'd turn it on, and sometimes it would light, sometimes not. If it didn't light, I'd start smelling gas and I'd have to ventilate the kitchen. If it did light, it took forever to heat up.

That said, I have just finished doing the things I'll describe below, and the oven appears to be operating correctly now. I'm not going to go as far as to say this will work for you, and I'm not even sure which step was the key (maybe it was a combination of everything), but I'll tell you what I did.

PLEASE be careful. Gas isn't something to be messed with. If you have any doubt, you're far better off calling a repairman than blowing the side of your house off, or worse, hurting yourself.

It might help to download this parts list, and refer to page 9, so you know which parts I'm talking about:
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%208187617.pdf

Here's what I did:

1. Removed the racks from the oven.
2. Removed the pan from the bottom of the oven (it just lifts out).
3. Removed the flame shield by taking out the 4 screws holding it down.
4. Turned on the oven, and saw that the element glowed, but that the gas took forever to ignite. When it did, the flames were weak, shooting out perhaps 1cm from the burner. NOTE: For whatever reason, if I opened and closed the oven door every 30 seconds or so, the oven would start. If I just left the door closed, no such luck. ANOTHER NOTE: If I started to smell gas while I was standing by the oven, I shut off the oven, opened some windows and tried again later. I'm not a fan of emergency rooms.
5. Shut the power off to the oven.
6. Unscrewed the ignitor from the bracket that holds it in place inside the oven at the back.
7. Wiped off the burner element (there was a little buildup, sort of like gray dust).
8. Unscrewed the bracket holding the burner to the oven, allowing the burner to be moved around (can't be entirely removed, just wiggled).
9. Removed the storage drawer from under the oven.
10. Using a hose attachment, vacuumed all around the area where the valve and regulator send gas up into the burner (about center, back under the oven). Look for a brass nut sticking up into the end of the burner tube. With the burner unscrewed from its bracket, you'll be able to lift the burner up a bit and vacuum around it a little better.
11. Reattached the burner and ignitor to the bracket inside the oven.
12. Turned the power back on to the oven.

Then I turned the oven back on, and the ignitor glowed for 30-60 seconds and then the gas kicked on with much more flow than before, (core flame cones about 1.5 cm long with more even flame out beyond the cores) and the oven heated up immediately. I'll replace the flame shield, oven pan and racks when it cools back down.

My guess is that there was something (lint, cobweb, dust bunny, who knows) partially blocking the gas flow into the burner tube.

One other thing I did after the oven seemed to be working was to adjust the air shutter at the base of the burner tube, right where it meets that brass nut under the oven. I got that from Installation Step number 28 (page 6) on the following PDF:
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Installation%20Instructions%20-%209755235.pdf

Like I said, I don't know if my solution will work for you. Try it at your own risk, and DON'T DO ANYTHING BUT SHUT OFF THE OVEN IF YOU SMELL GAS. :)

Aug 14, 2009 | KitchenAid KGRT607 Gas Kitchen Range

3 Answers

Whirpool gas range - propane gas not sure oven is working right


First, the flame should be blue and without much visible yellow. You need to give the gas tube a good cleaning to get out any soot buildup and any partial obstuctions that might be causing the problem. Since you started with a yellow flame and soot, you need to get the burner tubes clean to see if you have resolved the problem after adjusting the regulator and burner valve(s).

You might need to install a different regulator to match the pressure of your gas supply source, as regulators have a specific working range of inlet (supply gas pressure) that they can operate properly at to "regulate" the supply pressure to the stove's needed pressure.

Check your manual and the installation guide to verify what the gas inlet pressure requirements are and check with your gas supplier to see what they are providing you.

To your 2nd question, yes, the gas will cycle on and off when you are using the oven, since the thermostat will call for more heat when needed and shut off the gas/flame once the temperature you set the control at, has been reached. The cycling is a result of the oven trying to maintain the desired temperature for baking.

One reason that you can smell gas when the oven is being used, is because all gas ovens have a surface vent to allow excess heat to escape from the oven compartment, however you should not be smelling raw gas (actually you're smelling the "rotten egg" additive that's put in the gas) all the time, since when the oven is turned on, a small electric ignitor is heated up VERY HOT glowing bright orange inside the oven compartment. Once it's hot enough a sensor opens the gas valve and lets gas into the burner tube to be ignited instantly by the VERY HOT ignitor. It is rare to smell raw gas with this system, but sometimes you'll get a stronger "rotten egg" smell at different times due to the gas company and their system, etc.

As to the gas smell, you should NOT be smelling gas every time the oven cycles on when baking, as a normal ongoing occurrence. During the first few uses, it is normal to smell some gas, but this should go away after a couple of uses. If it doesn't, you should look to make sure the regulator and oven controls are PROPERLY configured and set - Since you've already fiddled with these, it's probably a good idea to have someone from your gas company (or a gas appliance tech) come out and do this. Improper settings can cause some serious problems.

Hope this helps!

Jul 15, 2009 | Whirlpool Accubake SF362LXTS Kitchen Range

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