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For Singer electric, air heater UHS-5, 220v, 5000w, need heating elements. Unit has three aluminum diecast assembly, air fined elements. I need two. Unit designed to use in garage or shop mounted from bracket on wall or ceiling.

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Diamgram for singer heater # 4990M

Posted on Mar 23, 2011

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I have a rudd UHLA-3617JA high achiever air handeler, works fine except the electric heater will not come fan starts normally, is this a fuse/breaker or failed electric element problem, how can i tell


It is either the element, sequencer (or contactor/relay), or power to the switching element. 5KW Elements normally Ohm out @ around 10 Ohms when they are good. Everything you need to check requires a multimeter.

Jan 21, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Need to add electric heating element and thermastate to g6a-6e gas water heater


I don't know how you can drill into aluminum tank and install element.
That seems a good way to ruin the heater.
Why not just buy small 'under counter' 1500 watt electric water heater at local box store and install in-line before the water reaches atwood gas heater.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-under-counter-water-heater.html
Otherwise I do not have a solution.
Don't blow yourself up by messing with gas appliance.

Mar 16, 2013 | Water Heaters

2 Answers

On our AE125, the thermal cut-off is tripping AFTER the water is turned off. The heating element is getting so hot you cannot touch it


The elements are getting over heated then set temperature.You have a defective thermostat. The elements will continue to heat until they reach the set point of the thermostat. Try to lower the temp setting first. If that does not fix it, you'll need to repalce the thermostat, located very near the element, under the screwed cover on the side of the tank.------------- To know how this heater works, read as follows:---

Because electric tankless water heaters have to instantaneously raise the temperature of incoming water to a selected hot water temperature, they require very powerful heating elements. To power the heating elements of this 27,000 Watt model, you will need to upgrade the electrical service you were using for your storage tank water heater. The PowerStar AE125 will require a 240V, 200 Amp service. In addition you will need to install three 40 amp dedicated double pole breakers in your electrical box. In Canada, you will require one 120 Amp breaker.

The PowerStar AE125 electric tankless water heater incorporates a very sensitive flow sensor, and three heating elements. The heat from the electric elements is electronically modulated on the basis of the flow rate of the water entering the water heater, and the temperature rise that the water heater must achieve. Through its electronic modulation system, the AE125 maintains a very precise hot water temperature. As a safety precaution, each of the three heating modules is protected by an electro-mechanical thermal cut-out. This device will cut power to a particular module if the temperature gets too hot.

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This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Jul 02, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Freezer has ice build up fridge has low air flow


HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary form unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with a defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side(refrigerator section). Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time(This will block airflow and jam the evaporator fan blades). The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will eb the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.

May 23, 2010 | Jenn-Air JCD2389G Side by Side...

1 Answer

Ice build up prevents air from getting back down (i.e. fan is fine) to freezer, so fridge is warm freezer is icy cold. Defrost thermostat or...? And where is it (I got the back panal in the freezer off)...


HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary from unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will be the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.

Apr 22, 2010 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrigerator not working


HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary form unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will eb the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.

Feb 15, 2010 | GE PSH25PSS Stainless Steel Side by Side...

1 Answer

Unit is GQ3RA-036K with H3HK010H-01B heat strip. I have checked continuity on the coils and the temperature switch both check fine. I have measure the voltage on the red and black wires connected to the...


you need to ohm out the heater elements. Its the ohm reading that will give you insight as to whether or not the coils are bad.

When ohming out the elements, be sure to tag and disconnect all electrical leads to the meter...otherwise you will get a false reading.

If the elements read OL, then they are bad. Also, check to see what the voltage is to the heaters. Ensure the voltage supplied corresponds with the unit dataplate.

Jan 09, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Why does my frostfree need defrosted?


HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary form unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will eb the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.

Nov 10, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Kenmore gas dryer 110.97566200 gas dryer is running throught the cycle but no heat.


Your Heating Elements could have problemA dryer sometimes won't heat or heats too slowly because of a variety of reasons. By following the guidelines below, you can inspect the heating elements on a gas or electric dryer to pinpoint the source of the problem.

Troubleshooting the Gas Heater

In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater that is controlled by an air shutter. The gas heater is generally the source of no-heat or drying problems. You can often correct such problems by adjusting the air shutter on the gas burner, which is located along the bottom of the dryer.

To adjust the shutter, take out the screws and remove the panel that covers the gas flame. Turn on the dryer so the flame is burning. If the flame has a deep blue color and you hear air whistling around the burner, the air/gas mixture is receiving too much air. If the flame has a yellow tip, the mixture is not receiving enough air. Turn the thumbscrew or loosen the two screws slightly to increase or decrease the flow of air to the burner. Keep turning until the flame is a light blue color, without any yellow, and the whistling stops.

Gas dryers use an electric ignition device rather than a pilot light to light the gas heater: An element becomes hot and glows like the filament in a lightbulb. Electric ignition systems are always sealed; you can't adjust or repair them. If an electric ignition device fails, call a professional service person for replacement.
how-to-repair-a-dryer-2.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater, controlled by an air shutter.
Electric dryers have self-contained electric heating elements.

Servicing the Electric Heating Elements

Electric heating elements, found in electric dryers, are self-contained units located in the back of the dryer. A defective heating element is frequently the source of no-heat or drying problems. Remove the back service panel to gain access to the elements.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher than 20 ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.

The heater may also malfunction because it's grounded. To test for this, set the VOM to the RX1 scale and remove the leads to the heater. Clip one probe of the VOM to a heater terminal and touch the other probe to the heater housing. The meter needle should jump to a fairly high reading. If the needle flicks back and forth at a low reading, the heater is probably grounded and should be replaced. Here's how to replace the heater:

Step 1: Remove the back of the dryer. If necessary, also remove the cabinet top.

Step 2: Disconnect the leads and remove the screws that hold the duct in position. Then lift the entire heater unit out of the dryer.

Step 3: Remove the screws that hold the heating element in the duct.

Step 4: Slip the new heating element into the heating duct the same way the old one came out. Be careful not to damage the resistance coils. Replace the screws that hold the heating element in the duct, reconnect the leads, and screw the unit back into position

Aug 04, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

Electric Heater Coils Always On


i suggest that the thermostat or the switch is at fault, contacts may be stuck. hope this helps

Jan 16, 2007 | Sanyo STW0923H2 Thru-Wall/Window Air...

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