Question about Fisher and Paykel AeroTech Double OD302 Electric Oven
Double wall oven, model OD302.
All control panel lights, clock and indicators work, no error code, but oven will not heat up to set temperature. For example, if temp is set at 350, after 10 minutes the oven temp is only 155. After 20 minutes it is still very slowly climbing but still under 200. After a considerable amount of time the oven might reach above 300 but then cannot get any hotter.
An authorized tech came out and turned the knobs and then declared it was "probably a burned out fuse or a loose wire." This "diagnosis" cost me $90 and they said they would have to order the fuses and study a wiring diagram and get back to me.
Electric Oven: Repairs and Maintenance Electricranges and ovens are generally easy to repair, because there's not muchto go wrong and there's not much you can do. Most repairs are actuallyreplacements, a matter of unplugging the old part and plugging in thenew. Most of the malfunctions that affect electric ranges involvefaulty heating elements.
Caution: Beforedoing any work on an electric range or oven, make sure it's unplugged,or turn off the power to the unit by removing one or more fuses ortripping one or more breakers at the main entrance panel or at aseparate panel. If the range is fused at a separate panel, this panelmay be located adjacent to the main panel or in a basement, crawlspace, or other location. If there is a grounding wire to the range,disconnect it. Make sure the power to the unit is off.
Ifthe range or oven is receiving power but doesn't work, the unit mayhave its own fuse or circuit breaker assembly. This assembly is usuallylocated under the cooktop of the range. In some units, lift the top ofthe range to gain access to the fuse assembly; or lift the elements,remove the drip pans, and look on the sides of the cabinets. Inside theoven, look to the back to spot the fuse assembly.
Ifthe unit has this additional fuse or breaker system, components such asthe oven light, the range heating elements, the timer, and aself-cleaning feature may be separately fused.
If thesecomponents or features fail to work, don't overlook the possibilitythat the fuses have blown. To replace a blown fuse, unscrew the oldfuse and install a new one of the same type and electrical rating. Ifthe unit has circuit breakers, push the breaker or reset button, whichis usually located on the control panel.
Replacing Range Heating Elements
Whena range heating element burns out, it's easy to replace. But before youdisassemble the range to check or replace an element, make sure therange is receiving power. Here's what you can do:
Step 1:Check the power cord, the plug, and the outlet. Then look for blownfuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel or at aseparate panel.
Step 2:Check the fusing system inside the range. If the circuit is broken,restore it. If the range is receiving power, go on to check the element.
Step 3:When the element is cool, remove it. In most ranges, each top heatingelement is connected to a terminal block in the side of the elementwell. To remove the terminal block, lift the element and remove themetal drip pan that rests below it. The element is held by tworetaining screws or is push-fit into the terminal block. To remove ascrew-type element, remove the screws holding the wires. To remove apush-type element, pull the element straight out of its connection.
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To remove a range heating element, remove the screws holding the terminal
wires, or pull the element straight out of its connection.Step 4:Test the element with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1scale. Disconnect one of the electrical leads to the element and clipone probe of the VOM to each element terminal. If the element isfunctioning properly, the meter will read between 40 and 125 ohms; ifthe meter reads extremely high, the element is faulty and should bereplaced.
To test a range element without using a VOM, remove aworking element from its terminal block and connect it to themalfunctioning element terminal. Don't let the test element overlap theedges of the element well; keep the element inside the well, even if itdoesn't fit perfectly. Turn on the power to the range. If the workingelement heats, the suspected element is bad and should be replaced. Ifthe working element doesn't heat, the terminal block wiring or theswitch that controls the element may be faulty. Call a professionalservice person.
Step 5:Replace a burned-out range element with a new one made specifically forthe range. Take the old element to the appliance-parts store; ifpossible, take the make and model information, too. This data willprobably be on a metal tag attached to the back service panel of therange. To install the new element, connect it the same way the old onewas connected.
Replacing Oven and Broiler Heating Elements
Electric oven and broiler elements are often even easier to test and replace than range elements. Here's how:
Step 1:If the oven element doesn't work, first check to see if the range isreceiving power. Don't overlook the fusing system inside the range.
Step 2: If the range is receiving power, set the timer on the range to the MANUAL position.
Step 3: If the element still doesn't heat, turn off the power to the range and test it with a VOM set to the RX1 scale.
Step 4:Remove the screws or plugs that connect the element to the power.Remove the retaining shield, which is usually held by two screws, andremove the element from the brackets that hold it in the oven. Theelement is usually held in these brackets by screws.
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
To remove an oven or broiler heating element, remove the screws or pull
the plugs that connect it. Remove a retaining shield and lift out the element.
Step 5:Clip the probes of the VOM to each element terminal. If the element isin working order, the meter will read from 15 to 30 ohms. If the meterreads higher than 30 ohms, the element is faulty and should bereplaced. If the element tests all right but doesn't work, the problemmay be at the terminals. Make sure the terminals are clean and tight atthe element connections.
Oven and broiler elements cannot betested without a VOM. If you don't have a VOM, take the element to aprofessional service person for testing. The problem is usually amalfunctioning element; however, you aren't risking much by replacingthe element without a professional test.
Step 6:Take the burned out element with you to the appliance-parts store tomake sure you get the right replacement part; if possible, take themake and model information, too.
To install the new element,place it in the same position as the old one. Connect it the same waythe old one was connected, using the same screws to hold it in place.Just about all the other components of an electric range or oven(including its door gasket, oven controls, and timer) are virtually thesame as the components used on gas ranges.
Most problems withgas and electric ovens or ranges are easier to fix than you think. Thekey is knowing how the various parts work and when to replace them.
Have a look at these websites to find parts and details :
Posted on Mar 21, 2009
The name F&P says it all! If there was any brand that gave the most problems, in products then F&P is the first on the list. With LG as the second
You say this is possibly a new installation of only 2 weeks. Don't dither around seeing if its a simple fix, get the installers/sellers back to fix it . It will probably need replacing as the control is faulty.
Thanks for using FIXYA
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
on these ovens the f-3 can sometime be incorporated with the f-4 error code also so here is the code and the things to look for both ok ?
F3 - F4 Open oven temperature sensor (circuit) (over 2700 ohms) or, shorted oven temperature sensor. Could be a result of:
· contamination on terminals
· pinched wire in oven temperature sensor circuit
· cold solder joint on control. · Disconnect power to range and remove oven temperature sensor connector from control.
· Measure oven temperature sensor resistance at oven temperature sensor connector (take care not to damage terminals in block) - Should read 1100 ohms at room temperature (approx 72 degrees F).
· Measure each oven temperature sensor lead from connector block to ground. If shorted, look for pinched or cut wire in oven temperature sensor circuit.
· Check connector terminals - Look for deformed or corrosion on terminals. Repair or replace.
If all above is ok replace control.
Posted on Jul 14, 2010
Google searches report that after running the self cleaning cycle this can happen. I am experiencing this issue with my Fisher&Paykel AeroTech Double OD302 but with the BOTTOM oven. I'm concerned as Thanksgiving is coming up and I need this baby working!
Posted on Nov 09, 2010
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel double wall
Hello & Welcome to FixYa
This indicates a open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you wan to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more then this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.
Posted on Feb 03, 2011
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