We turn on the oven and the ignitor will come on but the burner will not light. After a few minutes you will start smelling gas. I took the oven apart and there is a little box were the gas line hooks to from the regulator from the back. The burner screws on to were the orfice is if i tap that box the burner will light but it only burns a small flame. I'm pretty sure it is that box but what is it called and were do I get one. To me is looks like a contol valve for the gas after the regulator.
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I'd suggest testing to see if the burners are getting lit. If not, it might mean the ignitor has failed. To check the burner, select Bake to turn on the oven and then open the oven door. After a few seconds you should see an orange glow through the bottom of the oven and hear the hissing of the gas. If you don't, then the burners probably didn't light and I would suspect the ignitor. If it is the ignitor, this posting shows how I fixed my oven with the same problem:
Probably the safety valve. This unit broils and bakes off the same gas burner. A spark ignitor lights the pilot and this save gas because no standing pilot is needed. It takes a few minutes for the thermocouple bimetal combo to release the gas. When the temp gets to the desired rate then the bulb on the oven control closes off the flow of gas. To recap: The flow of gas comes from a regulator along a rail which supplys the gas to the top burners and the oven control. older models had pilot light tubing going down to the oven and to the top burners. This newer style uses a spark module to light off the top burners and the oven. So when yall turn the the oven on the spark ignitor lights the pilot first and then after the mercury bulf thermocouple heats up the bimetal inside the valve opens allowing gas to flow out to the pilot and ignite the gas burner. the temp rises and the mercury bulb oven control expands closing off the flow but not the gas safety valve. I would suspect the safety valve on this one.
Replace your ignitor, this is a very common problem. As the ignitor gets older, it gets weaker. When it gets weaker, it usually starts out by not giving good temps in the oven, then it starts to take longer and longer before it lights the oven burner, then it stops lighting the burner completely. A good ignitor heats up fast, allows the current to flow through to the gas valve, opens the gas valve and lights the oven burner within 30 to 50 seconds. When you order your ignitor ask if their is a cheaper generic ignitor for this model. Their can be a huge price difference in some units. You can also have a bad sensor, control board, gas valve, or wiring problem, however for the last 15 or so years every job I have done with your problem has been an ignitor. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists
most of these will have the oven bake ignitor become weak and not ignite the gas when turned on. you should see the bake ignitor try to glow orange but the gas will not lit to the burner. without a digital meter to read the current, should be 3.2-3.5 amps then you wont know if the ignitor is weak. you could try to just replace it and see if that fixes you trouble.
the ignitor has to be on before the gas valve opens up and until the stove recognizes a flame, if it doesnt the gas will shut off and the ignitor will cool off, If you use the self clean setting to clean the oven you will destroy the ignitor much faster because they are only rated for about 1000 degreese for just a minute and self clean keeps it around 800 for an hour or so. You may just need to replace the ignitor.
staunch has no idea what he is talking about. It has nothing to do with the igniter, or it would fire up at all. Since you are saying that your oven does ignite and heat up, it is the internal gas valve that is the problem.
The way all recent (20 year at least) are designed, the gas valve internally can not open unless the igniter is working, for obvious reasons ... boom! The igniter circuit allows the gas valve to open, once it detects that the igniter is ready to "ignite" a gas flow. BUT, the valve can be bad in the AMOUNT of gas being delivered. Your's is allowing too much gas, more than can be burned, hence the smell.
DON'T use the oven until you have a qualitifed tech come out and replace the valve. It is very dangerous for you to do it yourself.
Sounds like that ignitor is weak. When the ignitor glows it builds up resistance to the gas valve for gas to come in. If it sometimes takes 10 min then the proper resistance isn't there and this will give you that gas smell. Replace the ignitor and this should solve your problem. Can expect to pay $80 - $100 for the part.
Sister, there is no pilot light on this model. Sounds like you have a bad ignitor, however the F7 code shows as a bad touch pad membrane. d7 must represent how many times this fault occured, although Im not finding anything that shows a d7 code. Try resetting the board by killing power to the range for about a minute. After turning the power back on press the COOKING TIME, DELAY START AND NUMBER 8 PADS ALL TOGETHER. The words test should be displayed. Now you are going to energize the bake circuit; press the bake and start, you should hear a click, this is the bake relay on the board. By holding the start button in you are energizing the ignitor (glow bar) in the oven. If you do not hear the click, suspect the control board. If you do hear the click and the ignitor is not glowing, you have a bad ignitor. Have someone with you to verify the ignitor is glowing when you are holding the start button in. To exit the test, just push CLEAR/OFF key pad. Catriver...post back