What next?? PUT NEW mother board in and temp sensor, still not cooling fridge, the trap door opens but do not think for long enough. is it the temp control board??

Does the compressor kick on?

Holding fridge door open allow warm air into fridge/freezer that's why temp is going up .Maybe you device have a temp cutout which in your case 46 degrees.
It is like a energy saving

check fan , in freezer, it distributes air to fridge, also make sure fridge is level, if its not doors can open slightly

check level from back to front on fridge if good than check the amount of food that is stored on the door if u have a lot of bulk, weighty stuff they may be acting as a counter balance on the door when u close the left side the air that is trapped usually disperses into the unit and is not forceful enough to push open the door but if their is a lot of additional weight on door it makes the door easier to open and swing on hinge

Called maytag with model and serial number. This is a very common problem. They sent a new mother board free of charge within a couple of days. You will have to go to the back of the fridge to swap mother boards. It was pretty simple if you have a little patience. Maytag wanted to charge $200 for the service call but it took my husband about twenty minutes. Then you will need to reprogram with the code inside of the door. I was told that this happens alot if there is a power surge, so I now have the fridge on a surge protector. Haven't had a problem since. Hope this helps.

Iced-over evaporator coils, accompanied by a non-chilled fresh food compartment, happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me,the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signaled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week).Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side got warmer as well.

The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall between compartments which opens when the fresh food side needs cooling. If no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while.

I bought a pair of thermometers at a kitchen store and put one in the freezer compartment and one in the fresh food compartment so that I could occasionally check to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running (ie, was it really necessary to be trying to cool either compartment, or were they already cold enough).

About six months later I had the coil icing problem again. This time the fresh food side seemed cool enough (according to the thermometer as well as the fact that the flapper door would close, indicating that the computer knew to not try to additionally cool the fresh food side).

The thermometer indicated that the temp in the freezer compartment was cold enough, but the system computer continued to run the compressor. So I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

replace the sensor and the main board

It could be one of many problems but will most likely be a refrigerant leak in the refrig evaporater

I had this problem. Here's what I found: The cooling core on the freezer side was froze up. Covered in ice. I think the reason this happened was that the freezer door was held open by one of the slide out trays just enough to pull in outside air. Don't know how long it was like this. When I found it (and corrected it) the interior of the freezer was covered in ice crystals. From then on the refer side contents began warming up. There was no flow of cool air to the refer side from the freezer side (this cool air comes in from the freezer side fan near the top left side of the refer side). Freezer side was near zero temp and the unit ran continuously. Here's what I did: Removed everything from both sides (put it all in another fridge/freezer). Turned off (or unpluged) the fridge and left it off over night. I put towels under the fridge because there can be an over flow of water that could go to the floor. It works great again.

The light for the filter is not a problem. The thing to check is that the fan in the back is running. It should run any time the compressor is running to cool the compressor. If it is, then you need to pull the front grille or toe kick off and look under the fridge. Is there a lot of dust and dirt blocking the airflow? If so, vacuum it out. If not, pull the fridge out and check behind it. Is there a grate clogged up with dust? The reason the divider gets hot is because there is a freon line running through that part of the fridge to keep moisture from forming around the door seals. If the fridge is not cooling properly (dead fan motor or dirt blocked airflow) then the freon in this line gets very hot and all the pressures in the system rise, eventually leading to the fridge not cooling. Good Luck !