This is an interlock issue or a faulty temperature sensor. Both will require the outer casing to be removed for inspection. Basic tests can be done with a continuity tester or cheap digital multimeter with resistance checking facilty (Radioshack)
The sensors for these types of fans are normally attached to the roof of the cooking cavity, little silver components with two or more wires.
Check these out with a meter if any are open circuit then they need to be replaced.
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THE FAN AND MICROWAVE TUBE RUN OFF THE ELECTRONIC TIMER. OPENING THE DOOR SHOULD SHUT IT ALL DOWN AND WHEN YOU CLOSE THE DOOR AGAIN YOU SHOULD NEED TO PRESS THE START BUTTON AGAIN. IF NOT, ITS SOUNDS LIKE AN ELECTRONIC RELAY IS LOCKED CLOSED ON THE TIMER BOARD.
Just checked the GE website. Had the same problem with my 5 year old microwave. GE website says to close and open the door quickly three times. First time I did this it didn't work. Second time I closed the door with some significant force and reopened it more quickly. Worked. Unplugged the microwave, plugged it back in, still fine.
During operation, most of the built-in models have a panel that tilts out while the exhaust fan is on. When cooking is done, the exhaust fan shuts off and the panel retracts to its normal position. With the fan & microwave motor off, the hum is easier to hear.
Look closely at the top panel the next time you hear the hum, and you'll probably see that it's retracting.
FIRST ,,MICROWAVE OVENS ARE REALLY SAFTY MINDED AND THATS A GOOD THING....THERE ARE USUALLY THREE DOOR SWITHCES NEXT THE KEYBOARD--THE ONE ON TOP AND THE ONE ON BOTTOM ARE PRIMARY AND SECONDARY SWITCHES,,YOUR PROBLEM SOUNDS LIKE ONE OF THESE IS NOT MAKING CONNECTION..YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO PRESS 'DOWN" WITH A LITTLE PRESSURE ON THE DOOR AFTER CLOSING TO SEE IF THE FAN WILL START,,,IF YOU NOTICE --THERE ARE 2 LATCHES(HOOKS) COMING OUT OF THE DOOR,,WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED,THOSE LATCHES ARE SPRING LOADED AND MAKE CONTACT ON THOSE SAFTY SWITCHES....THIS IS NOT A CUSTOMER REPAIR--MICRO'S ARE JUST TO DANGEROUS WHEN YOU TAKE THE COVER OFF--IF THIS DOES BRING THE FAN BACK ON--YOU GOT A BAD DOOR SWITCH AND SHOULD BE A REASONABLE REPAIR
THE OTHER SOLUTION STILL WOULD BE A CONNECTION PROBLEM ON THE KEYBOARD ITSELF-THE WIRES JUST PLUG ON THE CIRCUIT BOARD BEHIND THE KEYBOARD---STILL A EASY REPAIR--GOOD LUCK TUNICA
One of the things that well cause that to happen is the voltage Reg. sticking close. thats only one thing there are 7 others that well do that you need to find a electronic Tech who can look at it for you.