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Here are a couple of possible problems. Most common one is a defective water inlet valve. It is the plastic assembly at the lower back area where the house water connects to. On dispenser systems it is actually 2 valves in one unit---half lets water in to icemaker---the other half lets water dispense at door. It is electrically operated so if half goes bad , the other half can still work. If bad it needs replaced as a complete unit.
Second possible problem with some GE side by side models is they had problems with the water line in the door going to the dispenser sometime would freeze up. They came out with a heater kit that needs installed in the dispenser area to defrost the water line. Call GE service with your model number and they may be able to tell you if you need that kit installed.
Your water line could be frozen inside the freezer door. Open your freezer door and remove the kick plate on the bottom of the unit. Follow the water line from the door under the unit and it will be clipped under the unit. Pull out the water line and disconnect either line from the coupler (push the water line in and hold the ring then pull out the line). After you do that close the door and try the water again, if you get water then you will need a low wattage heater for the door.
The hose is cracked, hopefully not to close to the door pivot or it can be a difficult fix. Remove the bottom kick panel and try to see where the water is coming from with a flashlight.
If theres enough tubing on either side you can you can splice a coupler in between. You can purchase easy push on couplers at any hardware store.
I have this same model and problem. The water line may be frozen inside the freezer door. (the line enters at the bottom hinge area of the freezer door)
Shut the unit off and leave the freezer door open ( you will need to remove your stuff you want to save first)
Next disconnect the line coming out of the Freezer door near the bottom hinge (should be a quick disconnect coupler, you will need to remove the front air grill assy to allow access to the line/coupler) and lay the line out on the floor.
After thawing the water should run out the line leaving a small puddle on the floor. Reconnect the line, plug the unit back in and test your dispenser.
Although this method restored my water dispenser to working condition, other possible causes for this include the line freezing up in the refridgerator section, bad water valve, bad relay on the motherboard, that triggers the water valve, bad motherboard. Hope this helps.
There is an electrically activated air dampener in the upper left back side of the refrigerator section which most likely has broken (in the open position), allowing cold air from the freezer to continue to enter the fresh foods section. Replace the dampener assembly.
The line in the door is frozen . Either raise the freezer temp for several days , so the line in the door will thaw , or , I have heard using an air tank will blow the ice out of the line in the door . WR49X10173 , is the part number for the heater for the water dispensor , to keep this from happening again . Instructions come with the part .
ive seen this before on this model, what is happening is the water line in the door is freezing and clogging up
the best thing you can doo here is disconnect that tube and try to get it defrosted
i usually suggest to turn the unit off
and open the freezer door let the inside come up to room temp
and drain from the coupler
1 of two things. 1)the switch at the dispense flap has failed. 2) the water valve solenoid that the sitch activates has failed. you will need to pull the unit away from the wall and remove the bottom panel...on the right side you will see the valve assembly. remove the power connection to the vavles....then turn your water on...water out of dispenser means bad solenoid/valve....no water means bad dispenser switch.if its the switch you can leave the solenoid to the dispenser unplugged until you get the part.
I had a simular problem! I tried multiple things to make it work!
- bought new filter
- open back of the fridge... (dual outlet water valve)
Finally, I went to a different forum and found a unique idea.
First at the very bottom of the fridge theres a cover remove the cover and you should see the water hose running to the door from the back. In the middle of the hose there a coupler where the hose was spliced by the manufactuer. Now this valve once you separate it will not work correctly, unless you buy a new coupler (4$)... I'm el cheapo, I bought teflon tape for 50 cents (from previous project)... Wrapped around about half dozen times and made sure it wasnt leaking...
Secondly, when you disconnect the coupler no water should shoot out, until you press the water dispenser arm. If water shoots out of the hose on the bottom then you problem is really, really, really easy. You have simplely ice/ or another item blocking water hose to the actual dispenser.
I turned off the frezzer left the door open for an hour or so. I also used my wife's blow dryer on hot, and put it where the ice comes out of the ice maker. I would press the arm peridocially to see if the ice blockage melted yet. REMEMBER: door must be closed for pressure to push on the ice blockage. Thinking back, I might have been finished sooner... I was thinking the water dispenser would work with the door open.
If this doesnt work, then you have other problems... Bad water dispenser selonoid (you can hear this little motor turning even without water), dual water outlet valve maybe broken... Going outside my knowldege level at this point.... But i guess you computer board maybe going bad. Not sure if this computer has anything to do with water dispensing....
Hope this helps! My wife left me alone for about a day or two while she enjoyed the water dispenser...And she broke the vaccum.