Question about Dryers
In your post below you say that you can get a tech sheet, could you get one for me firstname.lastname@example.org
Comment posted on Apr 08, 2008
Follow the advice I have posted and it should lead you in the right direction. If you need further assistance, please pst back and let me know.
PS There should be a tech sheet inside the dryer that will assist you parts location and troubleshooting. I believe you may have to remove the top panel to get to it. It's usually mounted to the side of the casing on the inside of the dryer. If you don't have one, let me know and I can tell you where to get one.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You have a choice for which side front door should be on this model. There are 4 screws on front door. Take all 4 screws and pull down the front panel. You will see two metal parts each side which holds top panel. Remove two screws and metal parts. Now you can push up the top panel.
Posted on Mar 19, 2008
If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry clothes properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.
Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door:
a. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.
b. On models with no lower kick panel, lift the dryer top and remove the screws that hold the front panel in place.
c. The Kenmore Elite & Whirlpool Duet have a couple of screws under the bottom edge of the panel under the door that you need to remove.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.
I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.
Posted on Mar 31, 2008
SOURCE: maytag performa dryer assistance
Hello, My name is Juan. I will need help to find the problem with some suggestions. My dryer won't start at all, even when I open the door the light bulb inside the drum did not turn on. I check the power source it is ok. Please help with alternatives for a solution. Maytag electric dryer Mod # PYET344AYW
Posted on Jun 17, 2008
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