Question about Dryers
In your post below you say that you can get a tech sheet, could you get one for me firstname.lastname@example.org
Comment posted on Apr 08, 2008
Follow the advice I have posted and it should lead you in the right direction. If you need further assistance, please pst back and let me know.
PS There should be a tech sheet inside the dryer that will assist you parts location and troubleshooting. I believe you may have to remove the top panel to get to it. It's usually mounted to the side of the casing on the inside of the dryer. If you don't have one, let me know and I can tell you where to get one.
You have a choice for which side front door should be on this model. There are 4 screws on front door. Take all 4 screws and pull down the front panel. You will see two metal parts each side which holds top panel. Remove two screws and metal parts. Now you can push up the top panel.
Posted on Mar 19, 2008
If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry clothes properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.
Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door:
a. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.
b. On models with no lower kick panel, lift the dryer top and remove the screws that hold the front panel in place.
c. The Kenmore Elite & Whirlpool Duet have a couple of screws under the bottom edge of the panel under the door that you need to remove.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.
I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back with comments if you have any further questions.
Posted on Mar 31, 2008
SOURCE: maytag performa dryer assistance
Hello, My name is Juan. I will need help to find the problem with some suggestions. My dryer won't start at all, even when I open the door the light bulb inside the drum did not turn on. I check the power source it is ok. Please help with alternatives for a solution. Maytag electric dryer Mod # PYET344AYW
Posted on Jun 17, 2008
I had the same problem with my gas dryer and after some research found out that the control board is usually the problem. I'm guessing this is the same problem for the gas and electric problem.
I also found out that Whirlpool has a new part # out to replace the problematic board.
I found these new updated boards for sale on ebay. I bought one for about $100 and after a few loads it's still working.
The procedure is simple, after unplugging the dryer, it just takes 7 screws to remove and about 6 things to unplug on the board. I recommend labeling the connectors or take a photo before you unplug things for reference.
It took me about 30 minutes to do this fix.
Posted on Sep 14, 2008
hi..A poor connection between the wire terminals and the
heater relay causes high current draw and damages the
terminals on the heater relay on the main control board.
check it out..
kindly rate my response..
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
The E1 displayed indicates the thermistor is open and needs to be replaced.
The connections can be loose but the most likely cause of an E1 error is a bad thermistor.
The dryer will not operate if the exhaust temperature drops below 18 degrees F. or exceeds 250 degrees F.
If you're comfortable and confident in your do-it-yourself skills and have access to a volt/ohm meter you can check and replace this part yourself.
The thermistor is available from the following: www.searspartsdirect.com
Enter your model # in the appropriate box to get a full parts break-down and diagrams.
To access the thermistor see the image below.
Remember to unplug the dryer from power first.
The thermistor will have a black and red/white wire on it.
You can check continuity across it with the meter and if the circuit is open then the thermistor needs to be replaced.
When the thermistor circuit is open (>50K ohms), the error code E1 flashes in the display.
When the thermistor circuit is shorted (
Normal thermistor resistance values:
60 degrees F. - 15.3K ohms.
70 degrees F. - 11.9K ohms.
80 degrees F. - 9.2K ohms.
The thermistor -may- check ok when cool and freak out when warm!
HE3 Dryer: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wbfbgrrwtrrkfttxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kgwgwwwdkxkfkkgwgqs/1/1303472/5961857/image7127img-or.gif
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Posted on Sep 23, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
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believe that everything else is fine rather it is the thermal fuse that is
located inside the rear panel to the exhaust duct that is bad and should be
replaced. If you want you can test this fuse for continuity and if it is bad
then it should be replaced, as it cannot be reset. If the fuse is fine then it
can be due to the control board that is bad and should be replaced.
Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
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