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Hello, To remove the trunion totally reattach the inner tub to it and twist the inner tub,with the tub attached it gives you much more leverage to twist and pull the trunion off. After its off pull the small brass ring with the O seal in it up the transmission shaft and pop the tub seal off. To replace tub bearing remove the bolts on the side of the side of the outer tub off from the tub support and pull tub off of trans. shaft. to remove bearing flip tub upside down and remove the 2 screws from the tabs on bearing and turn tub back right side up and use a screwdriver on the top of bearing and knock it out of outer tub,push new bearing in by hand most of the way,being sure the tabs on bearing is lined up w/notches on tub and use old bearing placed on top of new one and drive it down all the way,reinstall screws into tabs. All the surface rust should be sanded off of trans shaft. Re install outer tub and secure with the bolts into tub support. push main tub seal into flange with normal palm pressure,install new brass ring and MAKE SURE O RING DOESNT POP OUT OF IT ( a little dawn,palmolive joy liquid dishwashing soap around inner part of o ring inside of brass ring will help it slip on easily) I use the old brass ring and press it over new brass ring to assist in o ring not popping out,once new brass ring is inserted ok and oring in place remove and discard old brass ring. Reistall trunion and inner tub ECT ECT ECT
the part needed to be replaced is the main tub seal and it is not hard to do. remove the agitator the you will see a collars that has two bolts on the side of it this keeps the inner tub attached to the drive shaft you may also have one that is broken. lift the washer lid. then remove the tub ring that is on top of the outer tub once this is removed you can remove the inner tub.there will be a brass ring with a black rubber piece in the center of it this need to come off in order to get the tub seal out. it maybe a little difficult toe remove but it just pulls up. you may have to use some liquid soap on the drive shaft to make things easier to slide up and off
The belt on my was the culpret. The washer belt has a spring loaded idler. Unplug power and move the idler off of the belt and use a spring hook or longnose vice grips to pull spring out of slot and into the next slot closser to you. There are 5 slotts. Push idler back by hand and put belt back on it. Your done. The transmission just spins as a unit in spin cycle, it does sit on top of a bearing,but that didn't seem to be the problem. If the belt tension doesn't fix it, put some grease and oil in the bearing or replace it.
Eventually you will need a new belt so order one now.
When the washer is in the final spin cycle and starts to sqeal, just pour a little water through the drawer about half of a glass full usually does the trick. What apparantly happens is that the connection/seal between the big grey rubber seal and the stainless steel drum has dried out due to the centrifugal effect of the spin cycle and it needs to be wetted to keep the sealed area lubricated and cool. The squealing is a result of the dry rubbing of these parts during the spin cycle.
Most noises from a washing machine occur during the spin cycle. If you hear loud thumping during the spin, the load of clothes may have become unbalanced. Stop the washer and redistribute the clothes, then re-start it. Repeat these steps if necessary. ------------------------The problem is the brake. The odd time what happens is moisture gets on thebrake rotor and the squealing is heard when the brake stator is applied to stop the tub from spinning. This moisture, may drip down from the tub onto the brake rotor which could indicate a leaky tub seal. If you can't see any dripping when you fill the tub with water, don't worry about the tub seal. Many times than not the brake is just going sour on it's own. Sometimes you can fix the squealing by cleaning the rotor and stator with a light sandpaper, such as emery/sand cloth. If that doesn't work you will need to replace the brake stator and rotor. If you need to replace them replace both parts together, don't just change the stator without also replacing the rotor, or vice versa. And here's a bonus tip: the brake spring exerts 200 pounds of force. If you try to remove the six 5/16" screws without using this brake removal tool, serious injury can/could happen!! The splined part in the middle of the brake needs to be greased really good before putting the brake back on! The drive/motor pulley on these washers is plastic. It can wear and start to slip on the drive belt, might be best to replace the belt at the same time if you find a worn/ground up motor pulley. The motor pulley presses onto the motor shaft, cutting or breaking the old one is common when changing it. --------------- noises also comes from bad wheel bearing would make.] If the tub seal lets go water will weep into the tub bearing. This will rust the basket shaft and normally wreck the tub bearing. Once the bearings starts to get worn enough it usually gets very noisy. The tub bearing is pressed onto the outer back half of the tub shell assembly. Normally need to replace the inner basket/shaft assembly and the outer shell with the tub bearing. Sometimes the inner basket support will crack, this can give an clicking or banging noise as well.