I've dropped a rag between Outer wall and inner wall of the washing machine (top loader kenmore) while I was cleaning the build up in the water recycle rim under the opening of the washing machine, where the wash water filters back in the machine again. While I was cleaning this build up gunk, my wash rag slipped the other side, in the tank I cannot get to. How can I get this rag out of the washing machine without calling a repairman?
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
An expert who has written 20 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: Dropped a rag between Outer wall and inner wall
If the machine still works fine with no new noises like the rag getting caught in a belt or something, I would forget about it and continue use as normal. Obviously, one should not run machines like this without being close enough to hear it if it has a major malfunction, so you should be fine, especially after the first new test use of it.
Since there is no flame or great heat in a washer, a loose rag inside should not be the problem that it could in a dryer! Best wishes!
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Is the plastic housing (Outer Tub) in good shape? If the old boot was ripped, It might be the spider is also broken. Can you move the inner tub by hand and see if it lifts upward? If so you might have to get a new one. I had the spider bracket in the rear of the inner tub break in 4 pieces and too expensive to weld. So I bought a new top loader.
we dont have much call for top loaders in the uk, but if they are like front loaders, there should be a filter at the bottom either on the left or right. if so, pull the machine forward and then tilt it back against the wall. not too far in case it slips forward and lands on its back.
remove the filter cover and then using a bowl and plenty of towels, tilt it forward and let the water run out.
there are 2 or 3 screws behind the top cover,but this wont get you to where the odor exists,its in between the inner and outer drum,you need to also remove the front cover including the door then remove the inner drum pulley and belt and then split the outer tub to clean out old detergent and fabric softener if you use this as this is where the smell is coming from
fault code 56 is a real code : bowl invalid check clutch in centre of bowl and pressure tube is not kinked,can also mean pressure tranducer on motor control board could be faulty, note check for obstruction between inner and outer bowl( missing a sock perhaps.?)
you will need to remove the agitator by removing 1/4"hex screw at the bottom of agitator,then you need a "spanner wrench" to remove inner tub-basket hold-down nut then you can remove inner tub to clean outer tub
2. Open the washer top. Look along the front seam of the washer where the top meets the front. There are a couple of retaining clips (about 2" in from each side) that you will need to push in on with a putty knife while gently lifting up on the top to get the top to release. Carefully open the top and lay it back in a resting position. Make sure you support the lid so it doesn't fall open when you tilt the top back. NOTE: I would recommend using duct tape to keep the lid closed and gently place the top against a wall for support. Use a towel between the cabinet and wall to prevent any damage to painted surfaces. This also reduces the strain on the top panel supports.
3. Remove the tub ring. This is the plastic donut shaped ring that sits on top of the wash tub. There will be a tab on either side of the outer tub near the back that you can use a screwdriver to release the tub ring. The ring is filled with fluid and is used to balance the tub. So, if you hear liquid sloshing around, this is normal.
4. Remove the wash plate center dome from the wash plate. This is the center cone on top of the wash plate. Use a flat blade screwdriver and insert it into any of the slots available along the sides. Gently pry until it pops off. I say "gently", but you may have to use a little muscle to get it to come off. Sometimes they stick. Once the center cone is removed there will be a series of nuts under it.
5. Remove the nuts and the main wash plate should lift out, exposing the inner wash plate. This is another cone shaped device located under the main wash plate. Remove the inner wash plate, using care not to damage the gasket under it. It is common for clothing to become tangled in the leveler or u-joint under this inner wash plate.
6. When all required maintenance is complete, reinstall the inner wash plate, ensuring the gasket is seated under it. The inner wash plate is keyed and should only install one way.
7. Insert the main wash plate and insert mounting bolts. Use a criss-cross pattern when tightening to ensure all bolts are tightened evenly and the gasket seats properly.
8. Reinstall the center dome on the wash plate by snapping it back in place.
9. Reinstall, the balance ring on the wash tub.
The following is a parts list of the most common items that may require replacement when you experience erratic motion of the wash plate, and/or clothing becoming damaged or entangled:
Wash Plate Dome Main (Outer) Wash Plate Inner Wash Plate Leveler Assembly Inner Wash Plate Seal U-joint
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
If you have already removed the outer washplate, the inner wash plate should just lift off the leveler and u-joint. The washplate dome refers to the center cone that fits on top of the outer wash plate. This piece comes off by inserting a screwdriver in the slots along the sides and gently prying to release the locking tabs. The mounting bolts that secure the outer wash plate also secure the inner wash plate to the u-joint assembly. There is a seal under the inner wash plate that may be holding it on. I don't know of anything else that would be holding it in place. Searspartsdirect.com has an excellent exploded view diagram of the wash plate and components that you may refer to provide you with a perspective on how everything fits together. I hope you find some of this information helpful. Please post back and let me know if you are still having problems.
PS You may have to resort to using a rubber mallet to lightly tap on the inner wash plate to knock it free.
Don't know where you live but you must have an auto parts store within driving distance.
There is a device, a gripper, intended for clumsy mechanics, that has a three-prong tip that opens and closes via a plunger at the remote end made for grasping hardware dropped into the crevices that one finds in the modern engine compartment.
The outer diameter is 1/4 to 3/8" (~6-9mm) in diameter and should pass between the tub walls without problem.
They aren't expensive (and worth just about that much).