Glow coil comes on but burner doesn't ignite for +/- 2 1/2 minutes then flutters as if valve is opening and closing. the broiler ignites about 40 seconds after glow coil comes one and burns steady. Does the glow coil have a sensor to detect the heat or flame to keep the valve open?
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I'd suggest testing to see if the burners are getting lit. If not, it might mean the ignitor has failed. To check the burner, select Bake to turn on the oven and then open the oven door. After a few seconds you should see an orange glow through the bottom of the oven and hear the hissing of the gas. If you don't, then the burners probably didn't light and I would suspect the ignitor. If it is the ignitor, this posting shows how I fixed my oven with the same problem:
Your gas valve would be my first guess. Is this broiler (and bake ) lit with a glow coil or spark probe that goes (goes click, click, to light)?? If spark probe, you will have to replace either gas valve or spark board. If glow bar lights the broil but does not glow, then replace glow coil.
The problem beleive it or not is that the bake igniter is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake igniter(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when oven is set to bake by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of igniter make sure only one wire,either one and not both. if amp draw less than 3.3-3.6 amps replace bake igniter. I know it seems improbable that if the igniter comes on that it could be the problem.Professional appliance technicians who would charge a average of $250.00 to repair your oven,have found when the igniter comes on yet the oven won't heat that a weak igniter is the cause 100% of the time
FOR THE SURFACE BURNER NOT LIGHTING
The holes on the burner espically those around where the electrode are dirty/clogged. By using a paper clip/safety pin to push in and clear the holes then clean the burner up with some steel wool the burner should light.
pull out the racks and remove the bottom floor of the oven,turn it on bake,if the ignitor doesn't glow most likely it's bad,if it does glow and it doesn't ignite within 40 to 60 seconds the ignitor is bad.even though it glows doesn't mean it's good,it works by amps.it takes 3.2 amps.for a flat ignitor to open the gas valve and 2.5 amps for a round ignitor to open the gas valve.
you should have a broil glow coil at tol and one on bottom. to access the bottom, open the door and look to the back on the oven floor. ther should be a srew one on each side remove and lift bottom up. you should be looking at the glow coil. i would also remove the pan drawer for access.it would be abnormal for bth the broil and bake to fail at the same time. if this is the case i would confirm power is leaving control to the selected glow bar. they shoul pull about 3.2 amps. then i would focus on the valve. which is opened by the amp draw of the bar. one wire on the valve is common and the other feeds from the control through the valve to the glow bar
Very well could be. I'm assuming the bake burner is the problem, right? Does the igniter glow at all? If it is glowing, but the burner does not light, is it usually a symptom of an igniter that has become weak. If it does not draw enough current the gas valve will not open and the burner will not light. This is a safety feature to prevent free flowing gas without ignition. If the broil burner is functioning properly, then more than likely the gas valve and regulator are working fine. In most ranges both burners are fed from the same source. You could try swapping igniters between the broil and bake burners to prove the theory. Or, you could just replace the igniter all together. Current readings are as follows:
Round shaped glow igniter: 2.7 to 3.2 amps
Square shaped glow igniter: 3.2 to 3.7 amps
If you can give me the exact model number off your range (usually located around the oven door or on the back of the range) I can give you the correct part number you will need. Most appliance repair stores carry the igniter. I hope this helps you.
This usually is an indication of a bad igniter. If this is the standard glow type igniter, it could appear as if it is working, but may not be providing enough current to open the gas valve. This is a safety feature on gas ovens. The gas valve requires a current potential of .32 to .37 amps through the igniter before it will open and allow gas to flow. This prevents gas leakage if the igniter fails to light. The reason your broiler works is probably due to the fact that the broiler gets used less and the igniter is probably in better condition. You can test this theory, if you like, by swapping the igniter for the bake and broil burners to see if the symptoms change. Or, you can simply just replace the bake igniter with a new one. Make sure you secure the power before attempting, though. You shouldn't have to turn off the gas for this. Chances are that's all it is. I hope this helps you.