Question about Dacor MCS230SS Millennia Electric Double Oven

9 Answers

Dacor MCS230S double wall oven

Top oven: both elements top (broiler) and bottom (bake) do not get warm when turned on-----everything else works

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  • 3 more comments 
  • Pat Samar Dec 10, 2008

    does not make any difference if oven door open or closed

  • Pat Samar Dec 10, 2008

    where is the thermostat - oven was working fine one day and then the elements just stopped heating up-----

  • Pat Samar Dec 10, 2008

    thanks anyway

  • Pat Samar Dec 12, 2008

    fan works fine

  • Pat Samar Dec 12, 2008

    fan works fine

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9 Answers

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The control board controls each oven / replace the control board to fix the problem / larry

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

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Most likely the problem with your oven is a bad relay board.
Well, if when the broil cycle is on the broil element gets no power, that probably means that the broil relay on the control board is bad. 
The easiest way is to unplug the igniter (one at a time), turn the oven on and check for 120V coming to the igniter. If you see a proper power then the igniter has to be replaced. 

If you do not see a proper power then check the wires and, if there is nothing wrong, replace the control board.

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

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  • Master
  • 2,110 Answers

Press “CLOCK” touch pad, then press
“TIME•TEMP” pad to set correct time of day.


Follow mode selection and clock settings as
specified in OVEN OPERATION section.

Oven will turn on automatically at preset time. If
desired, press “CANCEL•SECURE” touch pad
to cancel out of Delay Timed Cooking.
Change rack position

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

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You may have to replace the logic control switch

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

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  • 1,011 Answers

Sir,

Check this link for solve the problem....

thanks
good luck

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

In most common designs of oven, the broil and bake heating elements are controlled separately by the logic controller/switch. To accomplish this, the logic control/switch often uses relays. Additionally, as a safety requirement/precaution, there are automatic cutoffs installed that would affect the behavior (off/on) of these elements. They are:

  • thermal fuse, once it off, stays off;
  • thermal switch, will switch off when a certain temperature is reached and will switch on again when temp goes down;
  • temperature probe (normally inside the oven, on the wall), detects temperature and send signals to the controller board of the temperature reading. The board then decides when to switch on/off the heating elements depending on the choice/selection/setting of the user;
  • other sensors, some designs calls for blower/motor and would not switch own certain key components if internal ventilations not present, doors are not properly locked, voltage is lower and other conditions not prescribed.
Additionally, most ovens would have a wiring diagram on a sheet attached to a panel or call or cover. This may then be referenced to check and follow the power flow. The best diagnostic tool would be a continuity tester.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 12, 2008

    Hi again,



    Any updates or developments so far?





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  • 399 Answers

 Many thing can do this but, common things are....loose high voltage wire.....poor solder joint on board.....magnetron.....power relay..... ---------------------------------------------- This most commonly is a bad door switch, other possible problems are a faulty relay or solder joint on the power module, but a bad door switch is most common.
------------------------------------------ This often is a stuck or faulty door switch and it has blown the interior microwave fuse.
----------------------------------------- click the link for more help http://www.applianceaid.com/micro.html#common

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

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  • Master
  • 734 Answers

Ok,
check the thermoset of your oven.
Thanks

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • futureloginn
    futureloginn Dec 10, 2008

    If your oven has a calibration right on the knob, you can calibrate it as follows. If it doesn't call an appliance repair person. To adjust the thermostat's calibration: 
    1) Remove the oven temperature knob by pulling it off its shaft.

    2) Notice the current setting, then move the pointer in either direction to adjust its temperature slightly up or down. It's intentionally difficult to move the pointer; on some models, you'll have to remove a couple of screws. Figure moving it one notch will change the setting by 10 degrees F.

    3) For more accurate calibration, call an appliance repairperson.


  • futureloginn
    futureloginn Dec 10, 2008

    Thought I’d run through a fast diagnosis procedure on an electric oven that’s not heating. This is a pretty common problem, and if you’re reasonably handy, not all that tough to figure out. 
    First, as always, verify that you have power available. Turn on a surface burner and ensure it heats to a nice red glow, and you’ll know you have the necessary 240V.

    Be aware that it’s possible for one side of the 240V supply to ‘drop out’, allowing the surface burners to heat slightly and other components to look normal. But if your surface burners get red hot, you know you have 240V. 

    Next, and I may be dating myself here, but, if your range uses an analog clock, be sure it's set to ‘manual’. There are several different ‘manual’ and ‘time-bake’ arrangements, but the instructions are usually found on or around the clock face. 

    We have corrected this many, many times over the years and saved running a service call by asking about this on the phone when receiving a ‘no heat’ call. With some ranges it’s really easy to turn the oven off without realizing it, even while cleaning the range, so be sure and check for this if your clock is analog. If your range uses a red light that indicates the oven’s on - and you’re sure it’s been working - you’ll be able to tell when you get the clock set back to ‘MAN’, because this indicator will come on (and you’ll be a hero!) 

    If your range uses one of the newer electronic controls and it’s not displaying any ‘error codes’, you’ll need to progress further. 

    First, power the range down and run your hand over the bake element, feeling and looking for any rough areas. If the unit is electrically open, you’ll usually (not always) find a rough, burnt area, and often this will be obvious. In some cases the element will actually be blown apart, and if that describes yours, the element is definitely bad! These aren’t expensive; most cost between $20 and $30. 

    But if there’s no obvious damage to the element surface, we’ll continue. 

    The fastest way to proceed is identical to what we discussed on the ‘no heat’ dryer, and the same 240V test bulb is again put to good use. If you’re not comfortable dealing with 240V, though, all the usual disclaimers apply - call a technician! 

    Power down the range and pull the bake element partway out of the oven cavity, usually by removing 2 screws. Connect your 240V bulb to the element terminals, being sure they aren’t touching the cabinet, and power back up. Turn the oven to ‘bake’ and watch that bulb. Light: open bake element. No light: control or wiring problems.

    If there’s no voltage to the bake element, you might want to power down and remove the range back panel, looking for burnt wires. If there doesn’t seem to be any wiring damage, I'd probably recommend you call a pro. 

    In most cases, you’ll find either a burnt terminal (replace only with high temp nickel plated ones) or an open element, and either of these are well within the capabilities of a handy homeowner.


  • futureloginn
    futureloginn Dec 10, 2008

    then your oven needs repair.
    THANKS

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  • Dacor Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Check that the oven is starting and the door closing.

If the elements, both do not heath it is probably a control assembly fault, you may need to replace the control, I see if I can find parts.

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

  • Ginko
    Ginko Dec 10, 2008

    Start checking the controls, check if you can set time or temperature and start the oven, if the oven control does not work, see if the clock is set to a selfcleaning cycle, check this out. Ensure the clock buttons and knobs are set properly, keep prssed start for a while and try unplugging power or removing circuit breaker to reset.
    After unplugging you have to press the knob to restart, after you plug back.

    If the control does not work , then it is probably a faulty control.

    If you can set temperature, but both elements are not heating, then the problem is usually the thermostat, the selector switch, or the wiring.
    Testing wirings to the elements and to the panel , or testing and replacing thermostat are not simple operation and should be done by a technician.

    Give me the model number from servic etag , so that I can find parts and schematics.

    See help finding the model number on your appliance


  • Ginko
    Ginko Dec 10, 2008

    There is also a thermal fuse that you must check, it is accessed by removing the panel at the back of the oven. On one of the wiring there is a
    microtemp thermal fuse protector , connected to two wires.


    You find replacement shipped worldwide here.

    In UK here.

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As their name implies, broiler elements are active only when you're broiling. They will not go on for baking.

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