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Basket rubbing on tub.

What is the correct position of the basket drive block in relation to the spin tube? mine was 1/2 inch down from the top of the tube. there does not appear to be any stop other than friction to hold it in place. is this correct or is a part missing or is the the block defective?

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The drive block has a lip to hold in place and embraces two tangs. for some reason, defective, not put on tight enough or put together wrong, the flange was completely gone. the whole basket slipped down and rubbed on the tub. as soon as i saw the new part, i realized what happened. cleaned everything up and works fine.

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

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Washer spins loudly and seems to free wheel and other times does not drain properly


Check the motor to transmission coupling, probably broken.
Also check the inner basket drive block. The drive block is attached to the top of the spin tube-basket drive assembly under the inner basket. The spanner nut is under the agitator, locking the basket to the spin tube. The drive block has two slots that lock onto the two ears of the spin tube. Replace the damaged drive block, and/or replace the basket drive/brake assembly.

Nov 15, 2013 | Whirlpool LSB6200KQ Top Load Washer

1 Answer

The machine doesn't spin properly and doesn't drain the water


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Lid Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission. Another common problem is the lid switch.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin properly.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer spin the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Drive Block If the washer won't spin the drive block might be worn out or may have come loose. Underneath the agitator the drive block connects the inner tub (the one that spins around) to the transmission. If the drive block wears out the transmission shaft will still spin but the tub may not - or it may spin slowly. This also usually causes a lot of noise. The drive block is relatively easy to replace.

Clutch Assembly If the washer won't spin, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Clutch Band kit If the washer won't spin, the clutch band kit might be worn out. The clutch makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. If the washer won't spin, this clutch band kit may need to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.

Tub Bearing If the washer won't spin the tub bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer won't spin the tub seal and bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Bearing If the washer won't spin the bearing might have seized. This is not common. The bearing doesn't require any normal maintenance. They generally go bad when the tub seal fails and allows water to leak past into the bearing.
Basket Drive If the washer won't spin the basket drive clutch might be worn out. The basket drive sits on top of the transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the basket drive wears out the tub won't spin.

Basket Drive Hub Kit If the washer won't spin the basket drive hub might be worn out. The hub is a set of plastic gears underneath the agitator. The basket drive hub kit is easy to replace with standard hand tools.
Transmission If the washer won't spin the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are numerous more likely causes when a washer won't spin, which should be checked first.
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Sep 28, 2012 | Hotpoint Washing Machines

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My roper top loading washer agiatates and spins out the water, however, when it finishes the spin cycle it makes a thump thump thump sound for about 8-10 secs. It is like it is trying to stop but is...


Hi, Welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description this is what it sounds like. 1) The basket drive block has worn or come loose and the spin tub from the basket drive is "clunking" as it skips by the notches in the block. 2) The basket drive spin tub may have broke from the hub/base or both are worn as a result of prolonged "thump, thump, thumping". Hopefully the prior not the later. **Unplug the washer from the wall before attempting any DIY service/repairs...safety first** You'll need to remove the agitator, (the cap) and then the 9/16" or 1/2" or possibly a 7/16" bolt in the center...it may look nothing like a bolt, it may be a plastic block but it still screws off counter-clockwise.

Pull the agitator and inspect the block/hub in the center directly below the agitator which holds the basket in place. if it looks worn or is out of place, you'll likely need a tech.

If you can tackle it yourself, the block number is #389140. You want to be sure the spin tube still has the two notches in it though, otherwise the changing of the block will be futile.

Check that, and let me know how it goes and what you find.

Good Luck macmarkus :)

Aug 01, 2010 | Roper RAS8445KQ Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore 80 Model #11020802990 Won't Spin!!


i think you have a basket drive tube problem, what happened to mine was the thrust washer had ground off the bottom of my tube,the clip that holds the brake release arm fell off,the arm fell down breaking the 2 little pins on it, without that arm on the tube it won't release the brake allowing the basket to spin, you would have to remove the tranny to see if there is a problem there,,,,,also the top of the tube there is 2 notches that line up in your drive block,could be broken there,,,,you would have to remove the agitator to check there!

Feb 20, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer does not spin but makes loud clicking noise?


sounds like you could have a problem with your basket drive tube,around the clutch brake area! my machine would not spin and i found out the bottom of the basket drive tube had been ground off by the thrust washer which resulted in the clip that holds the brake release arm fell off and broke the 2 little pins on the brake release arm and it would not disengage the brake to allow the basket to spin, i bought a used basket drive tube and a new clutch ,installed and unit works fine now,,,so take a look also check your motor coupling see if it is broken ,,, and 1 more thing ,up under your agitator is the basket drive block sometimes it shears off the notches on the top of your drive tube!

Feb 17, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore series 110 model 80


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Two things to check are the Basket Drive Block and the Brake and Drive Tube.

The clutch on the transmission drives the Brake and Drive Tube when in spin mode, the Basket Drive Block transmits the spinning of the Drive tube to the tub.

See the following description of how to pull the cabinet, agitators, drive block and drive tube.

As an aside, you don't need to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the Drive Block Basket Lock Nut. I found that by using a short 10" pipe wrench, opened all the way and hooked over one of the tabs on the nut, and giving it a short whack with a hammer, the nut will come loose.

Check that the basket drive block fits on the drive tube with the two tabs on the drive tube fitted into the slots in the drive block.

ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137


Oct 06, 2009 | Kenmore 3.2 cu. ft. Plus Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Inner basket scrapes on bottom of liner tub during spinn cycle


It sounds like the basket drive block is worn. If it looks like the basket drive block has slid down the brake & drive tube (I believe you're calling it the spindle), it's definitely worn out. When this part is in place it sits on top of the brake & drive tube and won't allow the basket to go lower. To replace this, remove the cabinet to gain access to the the inner basket which you will have to remove. On the top of the brake & drive tube you will see 2 small tabs. Align these with the cutouts on the basket drive block. Mount the drum back on top, and tighten the spanner nut. Reassemble the cabinet and you should be good to go.
Let me know if you need more assistance.
Good luck!

Feb 21, 2009 | Whirlpool LSR5132PQ Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore washer 90 series wont spin


If your trans and coupler are good then I would suspect the drive block or spin tube. You will have to remove the trans to change out the spin tube. Take out the basket, there should be 2 ears from the spin tube that nest in the drive block. Attached is a photo to help you understand. Before all this make sure nothing is caught between the basket and the tub. Catriverd8086fb.jpg

Nov 26, 2007 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Tub and Basket


Fairway, sounds like you have a worn drive block. You are going to have to remove the agitator and inspect the drive block. If it is the drive block you will get some good hammering when the spin cycle stops. I will attach some photos of a worn out drive block. If you want to attempt to handle this yourself, we can walk you through it. Catriver..post back.

Oct 23, 2006 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

12 Answers

Noise at end of spin cycle


Sounds like the drive block is defective. The drive bloce is a aluminum part that attaches the drun to the gearcase. If you remove the agitator you will see a large nut on top of the basket. If the drive block is worn yo will see aluminum peices on top. It is very simle to relace. You will need a spanner wrench to remove the nut. With the nut removed lift the spin basket up and out. Remove the block. You will see that the new block will only fit on one way. Tap it down untill it will not go any further, replace the basket, make sure you tighten the nut securly replace the agitator and you will be back washing.

Jun 26, 2006 | Kenmore 23012 Top Load Washer

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