Question about SAIT Portable Saw Cut-Off Wheel TM 12 x 1/8 x 1 BRUTE

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Use of a Sait Cut abraise wheel to cut PVC Pipe

A contractor was using a abrasive wheel A24R-BF to cut PVC Pipe. The wheel is designated for steel cutting. Is this an appropriate product for cutting PVC. I recently was involved in an incident where a worker lost an eye when a wheel ,of a competitor, designed for "Steel", broke and knocked the safety glasses into the workers eye.

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I worked at a tool rental business while going to college and became familiar with OSHA requirements as it pertains to construction. There is an old saying that if you follow the rule-book by the letter things will quickly come to a grinding halt. I checked on OSHA web site and could not find anything on you question. I recall that using the correct blade only results in a cleaner cut, however there is the possibility that the pvc material can load-up on the blade and cause jambing. An inspection of the blade will answer this. More important is that all safety items are in place like the blade guard and that all workers in the vicinity of the saw are wearing eye protection. We used Norton brand abrasive blades and the following is their guide. APPLICATION GUIDE:
Concrete:
For concrete/masonry - silicon carbide specification for brick, block, concrete, and other masonry materials.
Metal: For metal/steel - aluminum oxide specification for mild steel, stainless, and metal decking.
Asphalt: For use when cutting mostly asphalt.
Asphalt / Green Concrete: For asphalt and green concrete - silicon carbide in coarse grit range. For high performance, hot pressed wheels provide significantly longer life.
Ductile: For ductile iron and cast iron pipe - formulated with a special blend of silicon carbide (for cutting) and aluminum oxide (for long life). This specification is also suitable for cutting PVC.

Hope this helps, enjoy

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

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How do i cut cast iron pipe grey


you can get a steel cutting blade for a handheld circular saw and use that if you have room.. beware of the sparks also..this looks like a flat grinding wheel and runs in place of the sawblade.. it will cut through most metals..be very careful as it will spin very fast so hold slow and steady when cutting with it..

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My steering lock does not unlock even when the car is running. what can i do to fix this problem with little money.


You can take the plastic covers off the steering column and try to spray light solvent into the steering lock area beneath the steering column to clean and lubricate the lock.
If that fails, if you have a dremel tool and some abrasive disks, and a Torx screwdriver that fits the screws behind the steering wheel, and a deep socket that fits the bolt that holds on the steering wheel, you can take the whole thing apart.
Disconnect the battery, wait a few minutes, then remove the Torx screws that hold the air bag to the steering wheel. The wire is a bit difficult to unplug from the air bag but it pulls out. Remove the bolt and mark the steering wheel so it goes back on the same tooth it came off of. As you pull it apart, take note of the location and orientation of the two spacer rings so they go back the way they belong. Snap ring pliers are handy for removing the snap ring, but any sharp tool will work.
With the dremel tool, cut straight slots in the the two security bolts in the top of the lock housing. Then use a short straight blade screwdriver bit to unscrew the bolts. The electrical part of the ignition is held on with a set screw that you have to loosen.
Once you get the lock housing apart, you can see what the problem is with the steering lock, or you can just pull out the lock bar and toss it and put the whole thing back together. Your steering wheel won't lock any more. but it will work.
Grease the upper steering column bearing in the lock housing while you have it apart. The best way to put that snap ring back on the steering column is to cut a short piece of 3/4" PVC pipe and use the steering wheel bolt and the PVC pipe to press the snap ring down the shaft until it snaps into its groove.
Eventually, your key and your lock cylinder will fail. Old lock cylinders almost never come out with a stiff wire the way they are designed to, so you have to replace the whole housing along with the lock cylinder. After you do this job, you will know exactly how to take care of that problem.

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How to replace a broken closet flange. Flange is one piece PVC embedded in concrete.


Best way to remove the flange is to get a inside cutting wheel for a drill. Has a cutting wheel on a shaft to use inside of opening to cut the flange loose. You can cut it as close just below floor level and buy a flange that will fit inside pipe to help with not having to bust up concrete around flange.

One other thing you maybe able to use a long hand saw to help cut the old one out to replace.

hope this will be off some help, you should be able to repair this , just take your time and get old one cut below floor level

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1 Answer

I need to cut 1/2"


I have used a wood blade the more teeth the better for a smoother cut. Do not use an abrasive blade, it can load up become unbalanced and come off the saw.

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1 Answer

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David, If the only variable is the material and not different blades, different operators, different feed rates --- then the variable is just that, the material. Abrasive cutoff wheels actually work best on somewhat hard materials. They will make big burrs (this is known as galling) when used to cut softer material. And once a wheel starts to do this, it will tend to load up (just like fine sandpaper does when sanding a painted surface) - and this loading up will cause more galling and poor performance. You might be able to intervene by dressing the wheel. You might be able to do that with a carbide tool insert held in locking pliers. The variability of your galvanized channel can be come from the steel itself being softer sometimes, but might be mostly due to the varying thickness of the zinc plating (which is what galvanized is). Zinc is very soft. I hope you find this helpful. Al Kupchella

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Hope this helps.
Please leave feedback

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They range in blade composition, number of teeth (cutting bits or surfaces), the amount of set (the width of the kerf removed by the blade), and the blade quality. * One of these circular saws will probably have a plain HSS (high speed steel) saw blade in it when it is bought new. * TCT (tungsten carbide tipped) blades are much more durable, especially in tough hardwoods. Also plywood and composite boards are hard on blades so TCT blades are needed on them. o Blades with fewer teeth (say 28) and with less rake to the face of the teeth, are designed for ripping along the length of timber, with the grain. They typically give a quick rough cut. They are cheap to buy and cheap to sharpen, since they have less teeth. o Blades with more teeth (say 40) are designed for crosscut type work. They give a lot neater cut in most circumstances. * Abrasive blades are made from carborundum or other abrasive materials bonded together in a resin or other synthetic binding material, and are used for cutting concrete or metal. They tend to wear away rather quickly, but for small projects, they are inexpensive and make fast cuts. * Diamond rim blades. These blades are made of special alloy metals with industrial diamonds embedded in the rim (around the outside diameter of the blade), and are for cutting hard concrete, cement composite materials, and masonry products like block or brick. * Special tempered allow blades. These blades have tempered carbon steel teeth, which are very fine (small, and closely spaced) for cutting sheet metal like galvanised roofing metal, or aluminum, copper, or brass tubing. * Dado blades. These are blades which can actually be adjusted to cut different width kerfs (the width of the material removed in the blade path). These blades make it much faster and easier for cutting dados and rabbetts, used for joining lumber. * Trim and panelling blades. These blades have fine teeth for making smooth, accurate cuts on finished materials like mouldings and panelling.

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Here a few examples: * 5 inch trim saws, usually with a fine-toothed blade and often with the blade located on the left side of the motor, for easy viewing of the blade path. These are available in 120V, AC models, and rechargeable battery models in various DC voltages. * 6 1/2 inch saws, as shown in the illustration above, used for cutting to length nominal lumber for construction, as well as ripping lumber, and cutting plywood or composite material. * 7 1/4 inch saws, often call skillsaws, from the name of a major circular saw manufacturer, Skill. These are the backbone of the construction industry, used for cutting lumber up to 2 1/4 inch thick. They are used for cutting framing lumber to length, and ripping lumber. They also have a number of optional blades which can be used for cutting composite materials, concrete, ferrous and nonferrous metal sheeting, pipe, tubing, and even cold-rolled steel bar stock. * 8 and 10 inch saws, used for cutting to length larger lumber or timbers, up to 4 inches thick. These are heavier, more cumbersome tools used mostly in industrial work. * Worm-drive saws have a gearbox with a worm-geardrive, and are found in 7 1/4 inch models which are most commonly used for ripping lumber or cutting plywood decking or sheathing. They typically have the blade on the left side of the machine, to make watching the blade path easier when cutting parallel to the edge of a wide sheet of plywood.

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