The heater service man says my grounding is bad in the service updated in 1994.
It carries a generator for emergency.
the amp meter shows 119.9 on the hot lead, 11. on neutral and 13 on ground. The grounding rod is fed by an old green colored braided wire.
Where I start?
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You need to have the wiring diagram for the generator but they didn't include one in the owners manual and nothing is shown the IPLs that I found.
DISCLAIMER NOTE: The following should be done only by knowledgeable service personal trained in area of servicing these portable generators.The information is what service personal needs to know in order to unbond the neutral and chassis ground. If done incorrectly you will put yourself and others in danger of electrocution.
To determine if your generator uses a floating or bonded neutral perform this simple test. With the engine off, use an ohm meter between the chassis ground and neutral conductors in the outlet. If it indicates open circuit, the neutral is floating. A short circuit will indicate neutral bonded to ground. I don't recommend doing this to household circuits due to the possibility of exposed AC and damage to the meter.
The jumper from ground to neutral, likely on one or both the 120VAC duplex outlets that needs to be removed. Connect ground connections on both outlets to the chassis ground and ground the generator chassis and frame to earth ground.
The problem with the repair service is another matter. Emergency generator and it's switch gear are there for emergency purposes. It has to be exercised periodically. The switch gear should have a toggle switch to simulate a power outage. the switch cuts power to the sensor sensing power from the utility company. This tells the switch gear that power was lost, start the engine and switch over to generator power. Run for a period where engine reached running temperature and switch back to stand by to shut down. Do this periodically, and be grateful the event was not a disaster. Think of your back up electrical system as the spare tire of your car and similar equipment and enjoy your investment. Good people brings you happiness, bad people brings you experience !.
Depending on the size of the service in the house this could be a normal condition. Most newer homes have at least a 200 amp feed from the power company. If it is older it might only have a 60 amp( usually glass or cartridge fused) or 100 amp service. Could also be a loose ground or if the unit is grounded by just a conduit connection. May need to have a ground run from the breaker panel to the water heater.
You must first disconnect ALL the stator wires to prevent a bad reading. You MUST have a good meter, cheap ones will not do. Put the meter on Ohms and put the probes together, note reading (this is the resisitance of the meter wires and this reading will need deductiong from the test readings). You will need a service manual to know what that actual values should be at what ambient temp. They are normally very low less than 1 ohm so cheap meters won't read. Check each wire with one lead and the other to the stator metal ground. You should have ZERO any value here is a short. Then check between each pair and read the value (many stators have multi windings T1,T2, Q1 Q2, B1 B2 etc, so you need to make sure you measure across each pair.. Generally values are 1 ohm or less
Depending on your locality, these requirements may differ from what is specified by the National Electrical Code (NEC or "code"). The NEC is commonly regarded as the minimum requirements for electrical installations, and many states adopt it without modification as their requirements, too. Still others modify it and some counties and towns further modify the code. It is for these reasons, you should consult your local code enforcement office to learn what the authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) wants to see when (s)he inspects the work.
Typically, an 8' grounding electrode (or ground rod) is driven into the ground and an approved clamp is used to secure an unspliced grounding electrode conductor to the neutral bar in the meter socket or service entrance equipment. The size of this conductor is based on the service entrance (SE) conductors. Typical sizes are when:
100 amp SE conductors are #4 copper (CU) or #2 aluminum (AL), requires a #8 CU or #6 AL grounding electrode conductor.
150 amp SE conductors that are #1 CU or 2/0 AL require a #6 CU or #4 AL grounding electrode conductor.
200 amp SE conductors that are 2/0 or 3/0 CU or 4/0 or 250 AL require a #4 CU or #2 AL grounding electrode conductor.
You may be required to provide a secondary grounding electrode if you can not provide data supporting minimum soil resistivity to the AHJ.
Lastly, bonding of the residence's cold water pipes is required. A #8 is used for 100 amp services and #6 for up to 200 amp services. If on a public water supply, the bonding conductor must be connected on the street side of the meter and the house side of the meter (should the meter be removed there will be no voltage present to injure the person removing the meter) to the grounding electrode conductor termination bar in the meter socket or ground bar in the service entrance equipment. Installation and connection of an IBT (Intersystem Bonding Terminal) is required for telephone, cable TV, etc. You may need to bond gas piping and metal duct work., and some locations specifically prohibit bonding one or more of these items.
The short of this is you must determine the requirements of your locality. The AHJ can tell what they are - but will probably not tell you how to do it.
To find out which is bad, you have to check the maximum output of the generator. To do this, you'll need a good voltmeter and a jumper wire. First, remove both "A" and "F" terminal wires. One of the wires is a hot wire so don't let it short to the frame. Then set your meter's function switch to DC VOLTS with a range of 50 volts or greater. Connect the positive meter lead to the "A" terminal and the negative meter lead to an engine ground. Start the engine and run it at about 2000 RPM. MOMENTARILY connect a jumper lead from the engine ground to the "F" terminal. Your volt meter should read 25 to 30 volts. If not, polarize the generator but MOMENTARILY shorting the battery positive post with the "A" terminal and recheck the maximum output test. If you do not have at least 25 volts out of the generator, you need to service the generator. If you do have 25 or more volts from the generator, your regulator is probably bad.
I had the same problem except it was with a miller welder. it was a bad ground connection on the ground cable. if you have an ohm meter. turn off your machine,but do not unplug it. check for resistance from chassis ground on machine to input ground if your input on the machine is good you may have a bad cable,input connection or the ground clamp may not be making a good connection to the cable. good luck!
Possible the ECM may be bad on your vehicle but generally the ecm supplies the ground signal. Make sure to test for power with a test light and not just a dvom or volt meter as it can give a false reading. You may have power or 12vdc but not enough amps to actually carry a load. As long as all the grounds are in order and you have current to power a load then I would definitely start looking at the ecm.