Goodman GMP050-3 System was working Fine the all the Sudden Gas stopped Uniting Comes on first Vacume Blower Starts Electroni Ingigator Comes On Gas wont Trouble Light Flash seady Contunious Blick Red Steady One after Another with no 1-7 Flash Just contunious Service Panel States Incorrect Twining Reverse on transfoemer Was working Fine What the Heck Can some Explain and Help Thanks Stauts Light Code in the Panel States Rapid Contunious Incorrect twining Check Reverse Transformer Secondary Leads or Could this Be a Rool out Switch Problem There appears to 4 switches on the diagram

It does sound like a bad blower motor but the power that is supplied to the motor comes from a solid state control board which could be the problem.

Hi,

Here is a tip that will help you try to figure out why your furnace is not working.

Basic Furnace or Heating System Troubleshooting

heatman101

It sounds like you got a tough one there.When you say the blower starts up and then the igniter comes on are you refering to induced draft motor or main blower. The proper sequence is for the thermostat to call for heat at which point the induced draft motor should come on and run for 30-45 seconds,then the igniter should heat up for a few seconds then gas valve should open and main burner should light. After limit switch reaches set point for fan on ,blower should come on till after heat has reached thermostat setting then burner should go out, and blower run until fan off setting is reached on limit switch. If your furnace is not following this sequence and then not always doing the same thing in the same order,I would recommend that you change out board again. I have had several problems similar to this with Goodman units and all but one time installing new board solved it. That time I did everything I knew to do and talked to factory service techs repeatedly and finally installed new furnace. As far as your question about insulation,. As long as it is fire proof I can't see where it would hurt anything. Sorry I'm not more help. Good luck and thanks.

This on blink of the light is a system lockout. It is caused when no gas is released to light the burner. The first thing to try is to turn the power off to the unit make sure your thermostat is off also. Turn the unit back on and make sure your gas is turned on. Then turn on the thermostat. Try this 3 or 4 times to make sure there is not air trapped in the gas line preventing ignition. If it lights after doing this you should check for a small gas leak at all fittings and shut off valves. The reason for this is to make sure you do not have a slow leak. If you smell gas turn off the furnace and your gas main valve and call a repair person. If you are unable to turn off the gas you should call the utility immediately. The cycle for your furnace is as follows. When your thermostate demands heat a signal is sent to your circuit board in the furnace and it turns on a exhaust fan to cause a draft to push air out the flu. (this fan is on 92% and higher funaces) This fan has two vacume lines that run to two vacume switches one is for the presence of vacume the other is for sensing the release of vacume. These are low voltage switches hooked into the 24v system. If the fan works and the switches sense vacume it then turns on the gas igniter this will be a glow bar and you will see it glowing. This in turn has a sensor that near it that can sense the heat from the glow bar igniter and it in turn turns on the gas by sending the 24v signal to the gas valve. If after 8 to 15 seconds the flame does not come on the system will reset and try again for a total of 3 times. If any of the above systems do not work your furnace will lock out because it thinks there is gas being dumped into the furnace. If the exhaust fan comes on you have 24v going thru your thermostat to the furnace. Then the vacume switches have to work. One is normally open the other normally closed. If you have a volt/ohm meter which can be purchased for as little as 10 to 15 dollars at a hardware store you can check these switches. You will need to set the thermostat to off and turn off voltage to your furnace for safety. Then locate the two switches by following the black rubber vacume lines from the exhaust fan housing to the switches. Pull the wires off the switches and with the meter set on ohms place the leads on the two terminals. While the meter is hooked up pull the vacume line off the fan housing and **** air in and out of the line the meter should swing back and forth as it senses vacume and the lack of it. If it does it is working. Then do the other vacume switch. Make sure to keep your wires and where the vacume lines go straight. You will also see a sensor mounted above and center where your burners are at it will have two wires going to it and it will be round it should show continuity ck it by removing the wires form it and touching the meter leads to the connectors the meter should respond showing continuity. There are two others under the burners on each side ck them the same. If any of your sensors have a pop ot button in the center press in on it yours should not this is an older version yours should be self reseting. The only other sensor is located in the blower for circulating the air. It is located on the right hand side of the blower housing with a red and yellow wire going to it. It has a reset in the center this sensor is used to trip if the heat in the blower housing gets to hot. This happens when the blower motor quits or is not able to move air fast enough due to restrictions. If the sensor has tripped you will feel and should hear an audible click when you press on the center button also if you check it for continuity it will show none and when you press the button it will show continuity. The next thing is the gas valve If all of the above work it is either the gas valve not opening or your circuit board. All of the parts are inexspensive until you get to the circuit board and the gas valve. The gas valve should be replaced by a repair person. You can replace everything else just make sure you turn off the power and pay close attention to the wiring. I hope this helps good luck. But not to down play the above make sure te top panel is in place put your hand on the gas valve and have someone turn on the thermostat. If the exhaust blower comes on and the ignitor glows you should then feel a click from the gas valve if you do not it us normally the circuit board. If you do and it still doesnt light you have no gas coming to your furnace. I hope this helps good luck

Amy,
There is no pilot light. It is electronic ignition.
If you have a gas supply and it is turned on you have electrical problems inside the unit.

Most motors have a thermal cut out that is internal. If the motor overheats, it will shut down. If the unit is freezing up, that would indicate that there isn't enough airflow over the coils or the unit is low on refrigerant. I had a unit that did this same exact thing and after replacing the blower motor and a sequencer, in the end it was the t-stat. You are describing the same exact symptoms and every time I would go out, the unit would work fine. I would suggest replacing the t-stat and then watch the unit. But make sure that the coils are clean and you are not restricting airflow over the coils. Hopefully one of the techs actually looked at the coils to determine if they needed to be pulled and cleaned. Hopefully this answers your question.

bad board,i have had several board failures on goodman

Take the flame sensor out and clean with fine sand paper or emory cloth

You have a flame sensor that may just need cleaning take out and take fine sand paper or emery cloth and clean

Your system has a number of blowers and fans. Are you refering to the "Room Air Blower"? If so, at what point does it start? 30 seconds after you turn the air on, 1 minute, etc...? Does it ever come back on? The more you help us with information, the more we can help you!