Replaced melted bottom element of Magtag MER5875QCF smoothtop electric range with new element. New element did not heat up. Broil & convection elements work, however, (as before). So oven heats only very slowly on BAKE to maximum of about 200 degrees & on CONVECTION BAKE to about 350 degrees. I tested the new bottom element by connecting it to the broil connectors. It worked. The broil element did not heat when connecting to the bottom element. So there would seem to be no power going to the bottom element connectors. Question: In addition to replacing the bottom element (which was obviously defective) what do I need to do to get the element to turn on?
Is the rheostat that controls bottom element functioning correctly? using a meter, can you trace where the current to the element stops?
Posted on Dec 11, 2008
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
First i would pull back cover and check to see if you have 220v to bake element when set to bake and if so replace the new element and if no replace the oven control, (part number 74008656) and that will fix it / larry
Posted on Dec 11, 2008
The switch control is bad and needs to be replaced.
Checking a surface switch : Many infinite surface switches physically look different, but they operate almost all the same way.
Test with an ohm meter. . . .Unplug the range. Turn the switch to a high on position, you should be able to hear it "click" into the high position. Remove the wires from the infinite switch. Be certain you know how to replace the wires. Check across from L1 to H1, L2 to H2, and P to H1. If there is not continuity across all these points, the switch is defective. Sample internal picture here.
Test with an voltmeter. . . . . Unplug the range. Remove access covers to get to the switch. Plug the range back in. With voltmeter set to read on the 240V scale, read across L1 & L2. ( no power there, check fuses or wiring ) There should be 240 volts present here. Turn the switch on to a high setting. Read voltage across H1 & H2. There should be 240V present here. If you don't read 240V here, replace the switch. Sample internal picture here.
Element stays on high only:
This is usually a contact inside the switch that has stuck together. Because this contact will not open, the element stays on high heat all the time = new switch time.
Checking a range element :
With the element removed from the range, check across the terminals of the element for continuity. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms, with an ohm meter. To see if the element is grounded, read between each side of the element terminals to the sheath of the element. If you read continuity, the element is grounded and should be replaced.
Changing a basic bake element.
disconnect power first!
1) Remove oven racks, remove the mounting screws from the element mounting plate, found against the back wall of the range oven liner.
2) Pull defective element away from the back of the oven wall as far as the wire will allow ( the odd time, the wires may be too short and you may have to disconnect the wires from the element at the back of the range ).
3) Remove wire lead screws from the element.
4) Replace the element and reconnect the leads ( if only two wires going to the element, it does not matter which goes on left or right wire terminal ).
5) Tuck surplus wire behind insulation.
6) Line up holes and reinstall new element using existing screws.
Checking the terminal block of a range element.
If you have checked the infinite switch and it is good, and the wires coming to the terminal block are good, and the surface element burner is good, then replace theterminal block. You can also read voltage in the terminal block with the switch turned on high. If the burner is good and you read 240V in the block, and the burner is not heating, replace the terminal block. Always check the ends of the surface elements when the receptacle terminal black is gone. Often the connection of the element and terminal block gets loose and burns the terminal block and the ends of the element
Posted on Dec 11, 2008
Replace relay and all will should be good!
Posted on Dec 11, 2008
I agree with leecon72 Thermal fuse may need replaced and it may be a wiring issue or the panel may need replacing But sense the old element melted (really melted? wow) I would put my money on the thermal fuse as it keeps it element from getting to hot and it the old one melted it may have also killed a bad thermal fuse
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
It sounds as if the relay in the ERC (electronic range control) was fried when the bake element burnt out and shorted to ground. You will need to replace the ERC (which includes the clock overlay) part number 74008656.
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
I do not see any internal fuses on the wiring diagram for this model.
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208/240 volt, 60 Hz., 30 amp, grounded, separate circuit required. Fuse both sides of the line. A time delay fuse or circuit breaker is recommended.
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
yes there is connections between them.
better take it to repair center.
Thanks
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Check if there is voltage coming to the new element.
If no voltage, check the wirings.
If the wirings are ok, replace the faulty control.
Youcan find replacement parts and diagrams by entering the model number here.
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
The only 'kind of' fuse that can be concerned is the thermal switch PS801648
, and it is not a fuse.
Must be part 18 on the diagram below.
Here you find more diagrams for your appliance.
That is a thermal switch it means that is a fuse switch or a bimetal switch, and when it breaks you have to replace it .
If you call at 1-888-895-1535 from 7:00 AM to 9:00 PM, and give them model number you can buy replacement for $15
The part is the is the thermal switch PS801648
part 18 on the diagram below.
This is the part:
For safety reasons the repair must always be done by a qualified technician.
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Follow the analysis
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Posted on Dec 09, 2008
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
The Thermal fuse may also need replacing
kind regards
Posted on Dec 09, 2008
Hi,
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As one of your experts suggested, I thought of checking the oven fuse. There is no mention of fuses anywhere in the owner's manual & I can find no readily accessible panel or location for these. Is there necessarily one?
Where would you think I should look to locate the stove fuses? I have already removed all back panels, except one. There do not appear to be any flip-down of flip up panels. I previously removed the bottom drawer & could not see any fuses in this area either?
As one expert suggested, I thought of checking the oven fuse. There is no mention of fuses anywhere in the owner's manual (or wiring diagram as far as I can tell) & I can find no readily accessible panel or location for these. There do not appear to be any flip-down or flip up panels. I removed all back panels in my search. I removed the bottom drawer & could not see any fuses or mini-breakers in this area either.
Where would stove fuses be located? Are there necessarily any? (I would have though so.)
As one expert suggested, I thought of checking the oven fuse. There is no mention of fuses anywhere in the owner's manual (or wiring diagram as far as I can tell) & I can find no readily accessible panel or location for these. There do not appear to be any flip down or flip up panels. I removed all back panels in my search. I removed the bottom drawer & could not see any fuses or mini-breakers in this area either.
Where would stove fuses be located? Are there necessarily any? (I would have thought so!)
The second experts solution seems to me to be a generic response which does not address my problem. I want to know:
1. Is there a fuse for the bottom oven element? If so, where is it located?
2. What other problem could be causing the new (& tested good) bottom element from heating up on BAKE?
Thanks.
The stove circuit is a dedicated 40A line with circuit breaker. The breaker is not tripped. Everything works on the stove except the new (tested) bottom oven element.
You mention replacing the faulty "control". Do you mean the entire control panel?
Might replacing the thermal switch solve the problem?
In my mind a switch can be turned back on if it is activated whereas a fuse, once blown, must be replaced. Is this a thermal "switch" or a thermal "fuse"?
There is something a few inches up from the wire input on the stove that has what appears to be a reset button which can be pushed in. Is this it? The bottom element still refuses to operate after I depress the button.
In my mind, a switch can be turned back on if it has been activated to turn off whereas a fuse, once blown, must be replaced. Is this a thermal "switch" or a thermal "fuse"?
There is something a few inches up from the wire input on the stove that has what appears to be a reset button which can be pushed in. Is this it? The bottom element still refuses to operate after I depress the button.
In the parts list for the range there is no part which is called a relay. Do you mean the thermal switch? Are you able to tell me whether the part that I identified earlier is the thermal switch? Is there a reset button on a thermal switch which would "normally" turn the switch back on if it were working properly? Thanks.
Three "experts" recommended that the thermal switch probably needed to be replaced. I did this to no avail. When I finally got a "real" technician to visit he said that this could not possibly have been the problem since the broiler element was still working (a fact which I included in my original request for diagnostic assistance). In general, I feel I got poor advise on this site.
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